2hrs of full sun is not enough, even in LA. You may want to put them in a spot that is protected from mid-day sun - when it may be too strong, but in full sun in am and perhaps later on. I keep all of mine in full sun sunrise to sunset. Moving into more sun should be done gradually, otherwise they could burn. So add just some, and after few days or so add some more. Well draining mix is what you need, and you won't get it by adding just little pumice or perlite. Ppl that use soil in their mix will use Cactus & Succulent soil mixed with minimum half, or as much as 80%, of coarse perlite. You can use pumice or perlite or even both, but add generously. Plants in photos potted in terracotta pots are too low/deep inside of pot; pls. add more mix when repotting. Water when mix is almost completely dry - use bamboo skewer or chopstick to check: insert at least 3/4 deep into pot and leave it there for few minutes. If it is dry and clean when pulled up, mix has dried and plant should be watered. If it comes out damp/cold and it may also have small particles sticking to it, mix is still wet and wait few more days. Check again, water if dry. Watering should be thorough, not just sips, until excess water runs out thru drainage holes. Water the mix, not the plant. Some plants have protective coating on their leaves, looking like dust or powder. It is there for a reason - to protect leaves - and should not be rubbed off. Spots on some of your plants could be mold if they stayed wet for too long, or if very humid. Assure good air flow by leaving space between pots. Perhaps it is humid by the pool?

It needs well draining mix, and more light. Soft leaves are usually sign of overwatering. If that's the case, leaves will start getting very soft and almost yellowish in color. Even if your mix is dry on surface, it may be wet around the roots. Mixing lots of coarse perlite with soil may help. Light color of the leaves is because of lack of light, not water. Those new leaves are extremely thin and have almost no chlorophyll. Even new leaves should have darker green color and be rather short, with spines - just like older leaves, but small. Pls. put it in better light, but slowly - they could burn very easily now.

I have three pepper plants, two scorpion opera (Trinidad and moruga) and one ghost pepper plant. One of the scorpions and the ghost pepper seem to be turning yellow and are dropping their blooms. My other scorpion is doing fantastic. They all get watered the same, get about 12 hours of sunlight, and are seeing temperatures from 55 F to 90 F, depending on the day or night (I live in central Texas). Any idea what’s going on? I can’t decide if it’s a nutrient deficiency or nitrate toxicity, or maybe it’s something else entirely. This pepper plant is the one doing good. This one is the other scorpion, which has some obvious yellowing. This is my ghost pepper, which seems to be doing better than the other scorpion, but still doesn’t seem to be doing as well as the scorpion in the first picture. Here’s a picture of all three of them, with the ”healthiest“ one farthest on the right, with significantly greener leaves. On a side note, does anyone know why the leaves are somewhat bumpy and crinkled on all of them?

I started out top watering but I was never sure how much to give and would sometimes see gnats which made me think I was overwatering. Gnats are a fair indication the upper portion of the grow medium is remaining too wet for too long. This can be due to the medium being overly water-retentive, the grower watering at intervals too short, or a combination of both. I will try watering and letting it drain as you suggested. How often would you recommend and should it just take a few seconds or so to completely soak the soil or should I be letting the water run through for longer? The ideal way to water is slowly, so you're evenly covering the entire top surface of the soil column. When water appears at the drain hole, stop watering and wait a few minutes (10 or so) and then add additional water. Ideally, at least 20% of the entire volume of water applied in both applications should exit the drain hole and not have a pathway back into the pot, which would be the undoing of the reason for watering to beyond the point of soil saturation. If you are still getting the sense the soil is holding too much water, the simple act of just tipping the pot to a 45* angle after watering will force additional water from the medium. A and B are the same pot, except that B has been tipped to a 45* angle. Notice the difference in how much less excess water B holds in comparison to A. This is a simple way of making a big difference in limiting the amount of excess water a planting can hold. For pots the size of which are easily managed, try taking advantage of Newton's First Law of Motion. Immediately after a thorough watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn ..... and move it downward, then sharply reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe. To easily determine what watering intervals are, follow instructions (below) re making/ using a wooden tell. Proper watering is a critical aspect of any plant care regimen. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is a complete nutritional supplementation program from a single source. It is arguably the best 'go to' all purpose fertilizer product on the market for a variety of reasons. If you water as I mentioned and fertilize about every 3rd or 4th watering in the summer and about every 5th or 6th watering in winter, you should be fine. That will be on the low side, giving you room to increase the solution concentration if you think it's required. To keep track of when it's time to fertilize each plant, drop a marble or button in the pot whenever you water, that way you'll know what watering is 3rd, 4th, 5th, etc. When you fertilize pick up the objects and start over until it's time to fertilize again. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions? Al