33 c.f. refrigerator and 18" dishwasher for new build cabin...mistake?
HU-563755716
4 years ago
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Building a new home
Comments (18)@Goagirl, I hope your build goes well. Make sure the builder and subs have good reputations for completing on time. We started planning our new kitchen in August of last year, but with creative financing (our home had no kitchen so we had to get a rehabilitation loan), escrow took until Thanksgiving, then our home designer (draftsman) took 6 months to get us submittable plans. (I have a hard time cutting my losses because I always think it'll take longer to start over; I underestimate people's willingness to screw you for their convenience). So with travel and family stuff, it's now June and we're just finalizing our cabinets. We ordered a range, so I can't help you with a wall oven choice, but... I've done tons of research on everything else you mentioned. Well done on the Culinarian choice... I lean toward all max BTU burners, so we ordered a 60" Culinarian range. The Canadian Costco Bluestar deal is a great price for a 48" range, but all 15K burners puts it a whole class or two below the big boys. Also, solid steel doors don't let you see what's going on inside until it's too late. As for the range top, excellent choice too. It makes the most sense to choose the best components, and Culinarian's burners are the best, whereas I've read from professional bread bakers that electric ovens give the best crusts. Also, the $6K premium for the range over the range top (at least for the 60") is ridiculous; you can get a great double oven for way less. Sadly, my wife loves the look of a range, so long story short, we ordered the range. I applaud your willingness to make an unpopular choice on the island range top. It makes a lot of sense, since even though prep takes the most time, it happens before guests arrive, while the cooking usually happens with your back to your guests. My wife didn't want the range in the island, so... 'nuff said. The upshot on the hood is, we're getting the Modernaire too, the PS16 (box hood), 72" wide, 27" deep, and the 1400 CFM Abbaka external blower. I think your island setup should have a stronger blower to maximize effluent capture, and you should mount it at 28-30" above the range top (rather than 33 or 36"), since the effluent spreads out as it rises. We're also getting a CCBI MUA solution; it's a little money for a lot of peace of mind. Maybe you could split the MUA duct into two registers on either side of the island to shepherd the effluent toward the hood? Kaseki might be the better person to answer this question. As to refrigeration, consider Northland, a lot of refrigerator for the buck, all aluminum/glass interiors, voluminous capacity. Some have complained of noise, others say it's no big deal if enclosed in cabinets, as built-ins should be anyway. I'm 2-3 months away from being able to vouch for it personally, though. @loafer80, I think whether the code requires MUA isn't as big a question as whether it's safe to risk the backdrafting of carbon monoxide into your home. There are many MUA discussions on the forum, and Kaseki, our resident ventilation expert, states that very small negative pressure numbers will create problems. With a sub-$500 MUA solution available, I don't think you should skimp on safety. (I don't know how much install will be, though.) David...See MoreNeed a new refrigerator, any recommendations on which one?
Comments (114)We purchased a Samsung French door refrigerator - Model RF24FSEDBSR/AA - in November 2014 (now about 2.75 years old), and have had, along with evidently countless others, problems with the ice maker, which quit working just after the one year warranty period was over ... soft ice cubes, water and crushed ice build-up in the chute, dripping water, and massive ice build-up in the back of the unit that evidently blocked the fan and eventually burned out the motor. The first appliance repair company called would not service a Samsung refrigerator (wonder why); the second came out three times ... went through all of the Samsung "service bulletins" in regard to this issue and eventually said they would not continue trying to fix it and to call Samsung (we paid for one service call with this company, the other two were gratis). Samsung "Support" set up an appointment with one of their locally contracted appliance repair companies - we paid for the service call and their assessment was that we needed a new fan/motor. On the next service call he brought and installed the new part. We paid for the part, something like $140. Shortly after the "repair", the unit again began to fail and we called again (after cleaning out the ice build-up several times). The part was guaranteed for three months, but we did not realize this and called again just after the three month period. The solution - again - to replace the fan/motor in the ice maker. We paid again for the part, and the company kindly did not charge us this time for the service call. Fast forward two months, and the ice maker unit is failing AGAIN - we've melted out the ice build-up two or three times in the last six or seven weeks. Over the last few days, a new issue - the "Twin Cooling" unit in the back of the refrigerator has failed - ice build up in the "Twin Cooling" unit, the fan died, and the refrigerator now keeps a temperature of around 50 degrees. The drawer and the freezer are still maintaining a safe temperature, so we are using those alone while we search for another refrigerator; given that we've paid upwards of $500 for repairs that did not work we are not willing to sink more money into repairs. I've read that they have since improved the ice maker, but have made no move to my knowledge to recall or replace defective models or parts. Needless to say, we are not seeking to replace this refrigerator, or any other appliance, with a Samsung model....See MoreDishwasher at the end of a run..
Comments (42)Oh come on macy...that's easy :oP 50 to 0 when they hit my windshield. Mindstore...I meant that if someone was at the sink and the DW was open it impeeds the use of the stove area (and I only mentioned that because the set up with it swapped is exactly what we removed when we remodeled, not to even mention access to the cabinets being blocked). Really Steve, IMO your question shouldn't be "is this an issue" because it's not (trust me...I can dance on top of the counters including the end panel area...and my DW is not attached in any way). But I do think you should think about doing a solid wood panel instead of MDF because of the steam and water associated with an open DW...and of course you did put an auto shut off valve in there right? :oP What size is your big toe...that might factor in here.... heh heh...See Morerecessing refrigerator will weaken wall
Comments (42)Kitchendreaming, My apologies to brining up the issue of code compliance. Let's forget the whole thing. This is in regards to the interior wall: There was someone else that said that they built their interior walls with 2x6 which allowed them to recess easily.... This is what I think. recessing into the interior wall that is framed with 2x4 will give you exactly 3 inches and no more. 2x4 are nominally 4 inches which is NOT quite 4 inches, about 1/4 inch short of 4 inches. Not sure why, but that is how they (2x4) come and that is how they throw the term about..... If you put both dry wall and plywood on the frig side to "stiffen" the wall, as many suggested, you need to take away 3/4 inch from the 3.75 inch space. This is the 3 inches left to recess into the wall that your contractor is talking about... If you frame the interior walls with 2x6 then you will have about 5 inches total to recess. You will also be losing 2 inches from the interior of the rooms versus using framing with 2x4. In my house, I NEED those 2 inches where ever I can get it. Your house and rooms may be bigger so that may not be an issue. You also have to order 2x6 framed door jams if you put doors on those walls. Standard door jams are for 2x4 frames. This can add up, even if a few $, if you are on a budget.... 2x6 also costs more than 2x4, so again increased $. We are strictly talking interior walls here... If the contractor has to make an extra trip to the hardware store to buy the 2x6, and you have to pay for his time, forget it, this is getting expensive! Exterior walls are generally framed with 2x6 to give you R value for the insulation. This is a relatively "new" code update. The houses from the "mid century" generally have 2x4 exterior framing. I don't know when they changed the code. Your existing house could have either 2x4 or 2x6 exterior framing depending on its age. Doing all this "extra" costs contractor time and money and you have to pay for that. They don't work for nothing, as you know. I think it is cheaper to buy a CD frig, IMHO, rather than losing the space to 2x6 framing AND/OR paying the contractor for recessing unless he is throwing in the work for free. IMHO, I would not want my kitchen (or the bedroom or the closet) to lose 2 inches to 2x6 framing (versus 2x4 framing) so I can have my frig recessed into the wall. I would just bite the bullet and buy a CD frig. Hope this clarifies a few issues for you....See MoreHU-563755716
4 years ago
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