Well lets see, my spray schedule THIS year went like this according to my records: Kocide 2000 @ just prior to pre-bud swell @ 9 lb rate + dormant oil. Since I could not find and procure Immunox until full bloom, that's when it first was applied. I should have started prior to tight cluster. Five days later was the next Immunox app.. This was done in only 5 days as a "catch up" according to some university recommendations that I can't site currently. Being a group 3 fungicide with resistance problems, I wanted to use it early and the 3336 later if needed. Also, 3336 is a group 1 fungicide, resistance development will be lessened using it following the Immunox. Idealy it is best to mix a protectant fungicide with the Immunox (it's a systemic) according to literature that I've read. Fourteen days later, started with a 3336 + captan mix on all trees. Seven days later, applied Mancozeb to my non-bearing trees as we had alot of rain with more forecasted. Mancozeb has a 77 day harvest interval and is cheaper and supposedly effective for scab. My other tree has good resistance to CAR and scab so it was left out. Seven days later, as several trees had a little bit of scab, and because I was concerned about it spreading (more rain forecasted) I sprayed one more round of the 3336 + captan mix. Then the rains finally stopped and so did my spraying. Maybe that was smart, maybe not. I have no summer disease problems YET, and the CAR and scab are non-existant. Immunox is for the scab and CAR where I am and the 3336 is for CAR and summer diseases (black rot, flyspeck, etc.). I haven't had any PM problems at all ever. Maybe next year! My basic approach as far as fungicide selection goes is 1) use a systemic mixed with a protectant especially up thru 1st cover and then evaluate from there. 2) avoid resistance by both tank mixing a protectant and systemic of different groups, and not using the Immunox more than 2 sprays in a row and no more than 3 times in a season. If you do that you'll quickly find that your options are very limited. 3) hopefully, decrease rates and/or intervals as environmental and disease conditions permit. 4) Learn as much as possible as soon as possible and be very, very observant. 5) Keep good records. Mine last year were horrible, but then, I didn't do much and it showed. This year was far better, time will tell if it shows, so far all is well.

I've had my new daylilies for a couple of months, now, and one fan of Queen's Circle I won from Ebay. It looked okay, and I'd given up on the complete nipping of foliage--it was just too psychologically exhausting. I was wary, however, and for some reason left this pot on my shaded front porch for isolation (probably just because I got it off ebay.) It looks like it has some rust now. It has the little pale spots that look rust like, but they aren't orange yet and have never rubbed off any orange powder to a white tissue. I brought it inside and put it in the guest room sunny window for observation--cuz I like danger, and I just want to *see*. Now, with a magnifiying glass I can see a center dot, a small clear space, and a yellow halo. Still no orange powder on a white tissue. Am I looking at early rust? I did set it on the back deck for some sun before, close to some other plants still in isolation from my main garden but they are still clear. One leaf of Meet Joe Black looks like it was attacked my a mini bull-dozer, with vertical stripes of top green scooped away in caterpillar mouth sized stripes. But this stuff on QC is different. I have my trusty whack to a nubbin, bleach thing to do and I picked up a bottle of Physan 20 a while back. My systemic is Bayer Advanced Garden Disease Control with terbuconazole--it's all I could find locally and was noted somewhere to be 'moderately effective against rust.' It is supposed to 'work 3 ways: kills existing fungi. forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant, and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions. --I will disinfect the deck and front porch and apparently my guest room nightstand with Physan 20 --cut back diseased plant to 1/2 inch or so and spray diseased plant with P 20 as contact killer --spray diseased plant and deck plants with the BayerAG terbuconazole (I've thought about taking the diseased plant to a lonely stretch of 840 rock cliffs, clearly labeled "I HAVE RUST. KEEP BACK THIRTY FEET," wishing it luck and checking on it next spring. LOL!) ------If this plan is good, should I also spray my whole garden with BayerAG? ------Should I do whatever it takes to find the Banner stuff? Also, I'm an anesthesiologist by trade. I'm used to ICU isolation procedures, AIDS patients, and the sterile technique and procedures in the OR. I think disease is fun, I loooove to beat it. It occurs to me, in the OR we autoclave packs. Now I have a deep freeze at home that would hold all my food. My fridge freezer can be set to 25-30 degrees. BRIGHT IDEA??? Could I try placing the plant in my fridge a few days to begin it's winter, then in my freezer for a couple of months? Remember as you advise me, that no trouble is too much. Most of the fun of this hobby for me is the soil management, culture, propagation, genetics, hybridizing, and disease. I didn't even get interested in my parents daylily farm until I found out about rust. :) I'm a scientist to the bone I suppose, and I confess here and now--I don't even really look forward to the blooms. I like the process more than the result--- born to be an anesthesiologist ;) and a daylily perfectionist. Oh, I'm also a perfumista. I'M A FREAK!!!!! But I'm on your side. :)

I honestly think that the only cars available these days 100% rust proof are the new German cars that go through a rust proofing dip before being painted. So it gets all the internal chambers. Otherwise... for every other car it's just part of the painting process. So many cars get scraped on the rockers and subframe that paint will come off and rust will still happen. My 91 Toyota Supra I am restoring had no undercoating and I am so lucky that it has not rusted underneath over the past 20 years. First thing I did when I got it home was take off the exhaust and drive shaft, removed the engine and transmission, put the car on a rotisserie, and I ground off all the paint on the underbody and frame. I then used por-15 rust proofing on the whole underbody, inside the subframe,in the wheel wells, and bottom part of the firewall were you can't see behind the motor. I then applied a good primer on top of the POR-15 I reapplied new seam sealer over all the joints. I then towed the car to the local line-x shop and had them spray the entire underside of the car, and in the wheel wells. It has a nice smooth finish. Is way more durable than any rubberized undercoating and works as an excelent external sound deadner. And they didn't charge much because I had the car stripped down on a rotisserie. So it made their job very easy. Once I put the car back together I took it for a drive with no interior carpet or trim and just the line x made my car a lot quieter especially at hwy speeds.

I enjoyed our Hyundai a lot (Santa Fe SUV). But they self-destruct at around 80K. Cheap internal components that fail around the same time necessitating several major repairs. Since we don't drive a lot I got 14 yrs out of it which was more than enough! The Accent is the cheapest smallest car Hyundai makes. I wouldn't be willing to bet it's due for some major overhauls when you least expect it. I don't care for Toyotas (the GM of Japan) but they are reliably bullet-proof. Especially the Camry which is their flagship. I agree 100% with jemdandy. If you can afford it go for the 2012, better safety equipment. But you should be OK with the 2008 as well. Do be aware, however, that Toyota used Takata airbags, which are dangerous as they age (people have died from accidents involving them, which drove Takata recently into bankruptcy). For a 2008 the airbags MUST be replaced soon. The 10 yr mark is when the bags' components go bad. For the 2012 the replacement should be done (if it hasn't already been done) by 2022. Note the DATE of any replaced airbags. If the replacement was done prior to 2016, the airbag is the EXACT same manufacturing process found to be defective (the airbag explodes upon impact, sending small pieces of metal flying out at high speed). Since the airbags ONLY exhibit this defect as they age past 10 yrs, the NHTSA allowed Takata to replace earlier airbags with newer versions of the original design while the factories changed over to a safer design. Those cars with original Takata design, early replacements, are themselves scheduled for replacement of safer new airbags in no more than 10 yrs from that first replacement date - preferably sooner, if sufficient supplies of new design airbags come in. The recall is extremely comprehensive and is thus not scheduled to end until at least 2020; it will likely continue beyond that. Any used car you buy that has the bad Takata airbags is tracked by its Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) which is listed on the vehicle's pink slip. Make sure you question the owner of any used car whether it was involved in the Takata recall, and WHEN any replacement airbags were installed (you want to see an actual invoice of the work done by a dealership; not a vague, "Oh, I think I had them replaced a year ago or something."). Note that for any strange reason if you decide to buy the Hyundai, it is not affected by the Takata recall. Hyundai has its own supplier for airbags. Only 19 auto manufacturers were affected, but most used Takata bags only for certain models, and in specific years. HTH, and good luck with your new used car!