You've got a good mechanic; thank him for saving you $425.

Cars today do not need additional rustproofing or undercoating. In some cases, applying these products can even make cars more likely to rust, so you're definitely better off without it.

Scotchgarding the interior is fine, and can give you some time to mop up spills before they stain the upholstery or carpet. You can Scotchgard your interior yourself with a can or two of Scotchgard spray, available at discount stores or auto parts stores for $6 or so a can. Just follow the directions on the can.

Scotch Guarded my New Scion XB. Worked like a charm and saved big $$

If you live on a gravel road, or will be driving on graveled or simlar roads, undercoating makes sense if it is the type that provides a tough coating under the vehicle. The main benefit if this coating is to shield the finishes on the metal parts from the multitude of dings that naturally result on graveled roads. If all your driving is on paved roads, don't bother.

I would still be afraid of dealer-applied undercoating regardless of how or where I drove. You just have no way of knowing how well it's going to be applied. Many dealers have these "protection packages" that they sell for $500 or so which amount to very little.

If I thought I had some special need for undercoating due to the way I used my vehicle, I'd want to shop around for it and purchase it myself, and then have it put on by someone I felt was going to do it right.

I can't believe this is still being done !
I would try to find a more honest, up to date dealer !

When I bought my first new car an Acura Integra, i fell for the package deal, But I widdled them down to less than half of what they originally wanted. You can dicker with them. But if you really want it, most likely cheaper to do it at a private garage.

Would have been a waste of money if you paid it. You can buy the paint protection stuff (exhaulted can of wax) they use from their own parts counter for $20 or less and apply it yourself.

As others have said, you can buy scotch guard anywhere and put it on yourself also.

imo, undercoating has no value these days. Having paid for it once in the 70's, I don't even think it had value then. Manufactures are pretty good at treating metal so it's resistant to rust. You were smart to pass on it.

Frosts me that they always come up with these little extras AFTER you agree on a price for the car.

Yes, and I'm sure you have seen the same thing I have: Undercoating sprayed everywhere, such as on the catalytic converter, rustproofing clogging up drains at the bottoms of doors, etc. Back when I was a kid my parents had an Olds Cutlass and the whole back door filled up with water. We had to use a pocketknife to clean the rustproofing stuff out of the drain holes so it would drain out.

No thanks.

The only time I would use an undercoat is to cut down on excessive road noise. Other than that, don't mess with it.

I do not get the undercoating because in time it cracks and then moisture and salt can get in.However that is not the same as rust proofing today if your dealer offers the right type.

Today they shoot a product into panels that is a almost clear product that clings to the metal and does not run off like tar type does.

I get it done along with the Fabric protector.The dealership I buy from offer a 4 step package.

1Under Coating better known now as Sound deading
2Rust Proofing
3Interior sheild fabric protector
4paint sealer

I always take 2 and 3 and get it thrown in with the deal.So next time negotiate it in they will do it if they think you will head for the door.I also make them put on splash gaurds.The trick is to bring it up before closing the deal.Other wise they will wait until you say I will take it.Then spring it and other options on you.

Cars do not rust like they use to.But they can still develope rust problems later on and before there developing mechanical problems from old age.

Also there are a few spots under the car that I like to under coat also.But I do that my self with the spray cans available at Wallmart or where ever.I check these few places and do them over after a few years if needed.

If the car has been driven ANY, and the undercoating is put on, it covers over the road debris, misc.goop and any moisture that might be lurking about (especially if done early in the morning on a humid day.) All those kinds of things make rust more likely.

You guys have it all wrong!

In 2006 the term undercoating your car or truck,simply means it is being sprayed with a mixture of oil and transmission fluid.Oiling the bottom of your car can only help,it cant hurt!!!Oiling metal never hurts it!!!Undercoating a car in Ontario Canada is what I have just stated.It costs about 100 bucks.It can be done yourself with a spray jug and the right combination of fluids.

Keep animals away from your area,,trans fluid can harm or kill a dog/cat if they digest enough,much the same as antifreeze.

Undercoating is not a good thing.However rust proofing is.There two completly different things.Undercoating is a tar like product applied to the bottom of a car.Rust proofing is a film like nearly clear product that is staticly applied to the end side panels of doors fenders etc.

I take the rust proofing and fabric protection.I tell them to forget the under coating and paint sealer.I never pay for the rust proofing and fabric protection.I know there going to try to sell it.So before I shake on the final price.I throw them one last bone and tell them they must do it and put on splash gaurds and they have a deal.

Hello,

I worked at a Buick dealership back in the early 90's. The package that people are talking about is a joke. Let me tell you about the undercoating. We got it in a 55 gallon drum. A green color liquid that I was told to fill a paint sprayer with and spray all exposed areas in the trunk, spray the strut towers and be sure to spray the exhaust. I asked why and was told so the customer smells it and knows we did the job. Now when I was a kid, my father had a 76 Buick Century that he had rust proofed at Zebart. They drilled holes in the doors and removed the trunk carpet and did a really good job. The car never rusted, we got rid of it when the motor died (Wish I knew how to fix cars back then) The "Paint protection" came in a little bottle called Vesco paint proof, all I did was to wheel it on. The "fabric protector just came in a different spray can, same 'ol Scotch Guard. Took me maybe 45 minutes to do all three and using less then $50 of supplies. They charged $500 + back in '92 for all this. I disagree with people that don't think you need rust proofing, the doors on my '92 Cavalier are rusted apart. But my '91 T-bird has just started to rust on the doors. A good quality rust proofing with a written warranty is a good investment. Dealerships like to tell you they will treat you like family, think about this...do you want to be treated like that???? Buy the car then get everything else after market, you will save big bucks.

Static

Toyota has a scratchguard policy which in the fine print says it doesn't cover "impacts", lol.

Of course they want you to buy it, the salesman gets about 90% of that money...

Just bought a new car and it has a lot of road noise, will under coating help this very much?

Finding out will be expensive. There are many components to road noise: tires, engine, aerodynamics, how well doors and other panels fit, and whether there's lots of room for noise to reverberate inside body panels. What car did you buy? Perhaps others of us have experience with what works for that particular vehicle.

Properly applied rustproofing with a quality product will extend the life of any vehicle. Stay away from rubberized undercoatings (what the dealer offers) as they dry and chip, letting in moisture. find someone that applies Waxoyl, I have it on two of my classic cars and the frames look like new.

I honestly think that the only cars available these days 100% rust proof are the new German cars that go through a rust proofing dip before being painted. So it gets all the internal chambers.

Otherwise... for every other car it's just part of the painting process. So many cars get scraped on the rockers and subframe that paint will come off and rust will still happen.

My 91 Toyota Supra I am restoring had no undercoating and I am so lucky that it has not rusted underneath over the past 20 years.

First thing I did when I got it home was take off the exhaust and drive shaft, removed the engine and transmission, put the car on a rotisserie, and I ground off all the paint on the underbody and frame.

I then used por-15 rust proofing on the whole underbody, inside the subframe,in the wheel wells, and bottom part of the firewall were you can't see behind the motor.

I then applied a good primer on top of the POR-15

I reapplied new seam sealer over all the joints.

I then towed the car to the local line-x shop and had them spray the entire underside of the car, and in the wheel wells.

It has a nice smooth finish. Is way more durable than any rubberized undercoating and works as an excelent external sound deadner.

And they didn't charge much because I had the car stripped down on a rotisserie. So it made their job very easy.

Once I put the car back together I took it for a drive with no interior carpet or trim and just the line x made my car a lot quieter especially at hwy speeds.

never let them drill holes in your car. ALL my past experiences with holes cause rust around the holes.

no mater what speed the dill is spinning or what material the bit is made of, avoid like the plague.

Where do I find the Line X product in the Dallas area? I have an infinite convertible with terrible road noise.

thanks

Dealers make a fortune selling extended warranties, undercoatings, and paint protector. Don't buy any of them. Mothers car wax is great and lasts for a year. I also use a can of LPS-3 and spray a little in any hole I can find and some under the car also. Great protection for a year or more. Won't clog holes.