Let it get scratched! It looks great over time...that's what SS does. We put in the huge Franke pro sink (the biggest and deepest one they make), and I spent a month trying to keep it pristine. Then the first scratches happened from normal metal on metal contact and I quickly got over my scratch phobia. Part of the problem is the brushed #4 finish the sinks and appliance companies use. It's pretty fragile because you have delicate grooves running in one direction. It's very easy to scratch across the grooves. We have a Franke bar sink with a smooth matte SS, and it's still scratch free 2 years later. Our FP double ovens have the smooth matte iridium SS that FP offers, and it's also scratch and stain free after several years. A kitchen sink is meant to be used, not preserved like a piece of art. Kind of like your pots and pans...after several years of hard use, they will show the wear and tear. But it's a good thing to let that happen, and totally natural.

I really like number 5, the white and gold one, but it's not right for the setting. Number 4 is very striking and would probably work. Number 3 is too mid/mod. For me, it's in the same category as 5 - cool but not right. Number 2 will be safe (three across). I don't like 1 or 6 at all. HTH

@bry911 thanks for responding. Found myself here while searching for ways to remove subfloor all the way to joists and build back up with new decking. I don’t plan to remove subfloor under exterior walls or the one interior wall in this space. Just inspect and replace everything necessary. I realized after moving in that the house was vacant for 15 years, bought and flipped. Roof has probably had several leaks for a long time, leading to a few surprises. I’m handy, but Im not a contractor, having to figure this out as I go. Whatever I do I want to make sure I don’t cut corners, or compromise the home in any way. Problem, 66’ home with cold floors, soft and sinking in a few locations. Vinyl flooring over subfloor and 10” joists, 24” on center, 4 foot tall crawl space, 3-5mil plastic vapor barrier (not taped or sealed to foundation wall) on ground. I’d like to strengthen up the floor, apply closed cell spray foam under the entire floor and put back up the bat insulation. If it’s going to cost $10,000 I simply can’t do it, I’ll have to patch fix and deal with it. If I can find a way to do it for cost of materials and a day laborer for a day or two, might be possible. Just one of multiple projects, backyard grading isn’t ideal either, have to tackle that too. :/. Wish there was a homeowners anonymous group I could come to, help others with their problems, potentially get help with mine.

"When you sandwich the sink rim between the heavy counter material and the cabinet side there's zero extra space if the cabinet side tops are all installed level. No possiblity of any space opening in the future.." Good theory, little real-world relevance. First, the sink flange would have to be rabbeted into the cabinet tops perfectly flush. Secondly, tops aren't the exact same thickness throughout and nearly all have to be shimmed somewhat. That means there will be a gap the thickness of the shims between the sink flange and stone bottom. That means an uneven silicone joint and on the recommended slight positive reveal that won't look good. When a sink is pushed against a stone bottom by straps, the gap is tight and consistent no matter what the shims are doing. Furthermore, if the sink ever has to be replaced, it's now much more difficult because the cabinet sides have to be unzipped to get the sink out and reinstalled to get the new sink in. A strapped sink is replaced in little over an hour by backing off two bolts. Using cabinet tops to support sinks is not good practice.