Peace Lily Serious Sudden Drooping
pandoraw
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Jay 6a Chicago
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agopandoraw thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)Related Discussions
Yellow fungus on my peace lily
Comments (6)The mushrooms come from the potting soil. They are somewhat ubiquitous to peat based media. MiracleGro is primarily composed of rather finely processed peat moss, just exactly what this mushroom likes. I'd like to ask you about your watering habits. When it's time to water, do you really drench the whole soil volume? The reason I ask is because peat heavy mixes can become hydrophobic, developing dry pockets that are very difficult to re-wet. In my opinion, that makes MiracleGro a challenge to work with. Spaths are sensitive. They like to have moisture at the roots, but will develop root/crown rot very quickly if overly saturated. A porous, fast draining potting medium allows us to water frequently and freely with very little fear of root rot. Since this fungus feeds on the organic content (peat), it (the peat) will slowly decompose into smaller and smaller particles. Before too long, the roots won't be able access oxygen at all. You should know that those little mushrooms are merely the temporary fruiting bodies of the real fungus....a network of threadlike hyphae and mycellium that grow and feed in the potting medium 24/7. Removing the mushrooms means nothing in the life of the fungus.....much like picking a flower doesn't hurt a plant. That's what I mean about the long run....See MoreTroubleshooting Sad Peace Lily
Comments (52)There are a number of issues that can cause chlorosis (light green to yellow foliage on plants that normally express a dark green color in foliage when healthy). Most are related to chemical/nutritional issues or cultural conditions that interfere with nutrition or cause problems with soil chemistry. The first question you should ask is, do I have an effective nutritional supplementation in place? If not, start there. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is a good place to start. Many of us use it with very good results. If you are curious about why it works so well, just ask & I'll provide the reasoning or direct you to a post that supplies it. Often, and commonly, high soil pH can cause Fe (iron) to bind with other elements in the soil solution and become unavailable. This can occur even when the amount of iron in the soil would be adequate under lower pH conditions. I've repeatedly 'resolved' mild chlorosis in plants by doing nothing more than fertilizing normally and adding a little white vinegar or citric acid (where they sell wine-making supplies) to the water I irrigate with. Often too, chlorosis can be remedied by adding an Fe chelate. The one I prefer and use regularly but not frequently, is Sprint 138. It's designed specifically for use when high pH applications are causing iron deficiencies. Finally, and if you ARE fertilizing, using a fertilizer with NPK %s that don't come close to approximating the %s of nutrients the plant actually USES, antagonistic deficiencies very commonly are the result. This is especially prevalent when using media that doesn't allow the grower to flush the soil regularly. Also, fertilizers with high % of P(hosphorous) in relation to the amount of N(itrogen) can block uptake of Fe. If you combine the use of high P fertilizers with not flushing the soil regularly, an antagonistic deficiency of Fe should be moved from the 'possible' column to one headed 'expected'. It shouldn't be too difficult to provide more specific remedial advice if you offer more input about watering habits, soil choice, and pertinent information about how you fertilize - what you use, how often, how much, ....... Al...See MorePeace Lily
Comments (3)Although these plants are considered low-med light plants, mine sits about a foot below a west window with curtains apart, so it's get bright indirect light, just a little bit of sun as it goes down. If the light is too low, you could end up with long reaching stems and small leaves. Hard water can cause brown tips, but if the plant is in the right size pot, (somewhat snug) you shouldn't see many if any brown tips. Low humidity, can cause some browning, so can over or under-watering and over feeding. Peace lilies like semi moist soil, the soil should never dry out. After the top inch or two of soil starts to feel "almost" or close to dry but still slightly damp,I water mine, but like I mentioned, the pot needs to be the right size, or the soil will stay too wet for way too long and cause problems, possibly a slow or quick death by rot/suffocation. The pot(s) should only be an inch more wider than the root-ball, if you have anymore room than that, your might be looking at some trouble! In my opinion, no drainage holes can be an accident waiting to happen, although it can be done, I think it's better with, than without. I have just one plant, an (orphaned Swedish ivy) without any drainage holes that I have to be very careful watering, that pot will be getting a drain hole drilled in it soon! It would be better to keep plants away from direct exposure to central heating which can be very drying, both for the plants soil and the air around it. 65-70 temps should be ok, that's about what mine gets. After watering, spill out any of the excess out of the saucer after it's drained so they are not sitting in water for any long periods of time. Billy Rae...See MoreSerious Peace Lily Help
Comments (19)There is a lot of info on First Rays Orchid site about growing orchids in passive hydro, most of which will apply to spaths. firstrays.com/semi-hydroponic-culture/sh-detailed-information/ Did all those leaves turn yellow? Take off the soil again and cut the gamey roots off and back into water with no soil. It sounds like you're thinking passive hydro is more complicated than it is. It is unlikely that anyone at the hydroponics shop will know anything about. No-one at any of the three shops in my area know anything about it. All you will need is an appropriate container and growing media. Pick up a net pot (or a small plastic bucket and drill a couple 1/4" holes in the side an inch and a half up from the bottom) and a deep tray or saucer to put it in You will want the media to be about 3 to 5 inches deep and the water is kept about 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep. Over time the roots will grow below the waterline but the roots above will get moisture through capillary action and at the same time be exposed to air. You will not need aeration if you set it up like this. Mine are grown in hydroton but there are other brands that are more or less the same, hyodrocorn, primagra, etc. Pick up some hydro nutrients for vegetative (non-flowering) growth too, most regular fertilizers do not have all the micro-nutrients plants need....See Morepandoraw
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agopandoraw
5 years agopandoraw
5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agopandoraw
4 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
4 years agopandoraw
4 years agopandoraw
4 years agoVance Evans
4 years agoMike the Fiddle Leaf Fig Guy
4 years agoEmbothrium
4 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
4 years agoLisa K
4 years agoThe LiL Flour Shoppe Cindy
3 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
3 years agoJen Hillerman
2 years ago
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