First, I owe you an apology. I didn't catch that it was "U" shaped, or hollow, I thought it was a solid bar. Hopefully this will work. If you can, nip two 45 degree cuts in the top and bottom flanges of the material. The two 45 degree cuts on each flange will met to form a 90 degree angle with the point of the angle right at the back side of the 1" face. Have them meet a tad over 1/4" from the end of the trim piece, say 5/16ths-inch from the end of the trim piece. You'll lose a little metal when you make the bend. So the "point" of the two 45s will meet about 5/16ths of an inch from the end of your trim piece. Now grab the face with a pair of marr-free pliers and bend the face back to form a 1/4" return. I wrote "1/4-inch return", but you can make the return as long as you need. If you tile is 1/4" thick and your thinset is 1/8" thick and you want no thinset to show, then you'll need a 3/8" return. Add 1/16th and make your cuts 7/16ths from the end of the trim piece, again, planning on losing about 1/16" of metal in the radius of the bend. If you want the return to be the same size at the tile is thick, then make the cuts 5/16th" from the end, when you bend it you'll have about a 1/4" return. Make that return bend, THEN cut your trim piece to length on the end that'll be at the wall-wall corner. That way if you mess it up you have suitable length to try again. See my very rudimentary schematic below. This is sort of what I'm talking about. Try to imagine that you're looking at the piece from above as it'll be installed in the wall. The "X"s are the flange. The show face of the material is right below the X's, it's the underline. The two slashes show the two 45-degree cuts that form a 90 degree angle, the material between the slashes is removed. XXX\/XXXXXXXXXXX Now fold back the part made up of the three X's 90 degrees so the two slashes come together and it'll resemble something like this: [X [X [XXXXXXXXXXXXX I hope that makes sense!

Hi tmnca! One thing to think about with the Kohler shower pans is whether you may ever be using a shower stool with legs. If you were to get a longer shower bench, the Salient may cause problems because the oval really does have quite a bit of "curb" to it, as shown in Badgergal's photo of her son's shower. With a small shower stool set in the center of the shower, it is fine. If you ever need a longer shower stool, the Bellweather gives you a surface not impeded with the raised oval. I does, however, have a slant to the overall shower floor, so that must be taken into account. I have seen the Bellweather in person. It is a non-slip surface. It almost felt like a surface that would make me trip - catching my foot if I did not pick it up and step. Like if I dragged the foot, it would catch and I would trip and fall. It was a funny feeling to the bottom, and I wondered how it would feel when wet. It was NOT going to feel slippery, though! As for tile in a shower floor, the other reason to have small tiles (besides the grout lines giving traction), is that the small tiles allow the tile layer to better cope with the slant toward the drain. Larger tiles only allow you to slant in one direction. The smaller the tile, the better it is for following contours on a floor that is flowing to a drain from all directions.

I hate splashes from filthy children (and healthy kids are frequently filthy), so I took the tile to the ceiling on the sink wall and tub surround. Other walls had the schluter. I used it as an accent throughout. (World’s narrowest bathroom has laundry through the door!) You can also miter ANY tile (except glass)—you just back out from the edge a tiny bit so you don’t chip it. With some tiles, you can lay this so tightly that it doesn’t need caulk. With others, a bit of color-matched (to grout) caulk, and the peek of the body color was hidden. I did the schluter because I paid someone not quite as proficient as I am to do this, and with the brick joint, you have to have a raw edge somewhere. John Bridge forums taught me this! The guys there are amazing! Here is a place where I taught him the back-joint trick and it worked with the layout. And NO, it wasn’t supposed to be grouted—which is why it cracked immediately. I haven’t gotten around to digging that out yet and redoing it. I have the caulk I bought for doing it. I didn’t catch it in time. This wasn’t through-body porcelain. Bulnosing wasn’t an option.

I have to laugh with the "red guard contractors". Yeah using membranes and mixing and matching different name brands and components to do a simple shower is the way to go. The more components you add the more to fail. Schluter saved everyone with their barrage of internet advertising. Heavy tile require a strong base. Your best bet would be simple roofing felt and some floated walls. This entire waterproofing deal is just out of control on here. One more time, the entire issue was when green board was being sold as or though to be waterproof. Tiling was done right over the gypsum board and when water intrusion happened the board crumbled and mold formed. Funny thing is do you know how many showers are still being used exactly like that with zero issue? There isn't a tile person incl myself who did not do showers like that back then. I had one in my own home that was going on 20 plus years without an issue as the caulk and grout was always kept up. Do most people even realize these membranes and some roll on waterproofing are still designed to be used on gypsum board. thats their entire purpose not for cement board although of course they can be used on them. Pick a tile that works for your layout. What you are seeing is what happen when these offshore Co's produce tile not taking into account normal US shower or tub sizing. Heck, they can be floor tiles?