landscape HELP kill grass with tarp or remove it with a edging shovel?
Chance DeBoor
5 years ago
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seabornman
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Removing Edging--A Sin?
Comments (11)Redthistle- It's not a sin. It's also not a sin to consider quicklyÂor slowlyÂwhatever speed feels "Right"Âto dismantle this bed. You and your husband probably had a goal in mind when he built this bed. It added something to the aesthetic of your home. It "fit" with your neighbors. Perhaps he, or both of you, enjoyed the gardening to keep it up. ButÂit is no longer working for you. It gets overgrown and it will keep getting overgrown, year end and year out. If your desire is for it to look better, then you have these choices: a. Keep doing the work yourself. b. pay for someone else to do the work--maybe just two major clean-ups each year? c. Pay for professional landscape work or DIY, according to some of the plans offered above, understanding, of course, that bermuda diligence will still be needed no matter what you do. d. Resolve to remove the 100' x 10' bed and let it be lawn. My advice would be to get rid of this maintenance challenge. Let it be bermuda grass. Then, focus your energy and creativity on something with a maintenance level that you do enjoy. The answer I suggest won't be perfect, but I promise it will be less work and, I think, a burden lifted off of you. AndÂyes, it is okay. A landscape design works to your goals, not the other way around. Sure, it may lose something aesthetically, but only if you are thinking of the way this "used to look". Right now, grass would look better and that is fine. If the design functions well for you, then it's "Good design". Two years ago we got rid of an island bed in the middle of our front yard. Unlike yours, ours--here when we bought the house--was always ugly. It was a constant weeding nightmare. Because I have no vision, I constantly tripped over the edge. Even so, I felt a little odd taking the audacious step of removing something that was "there". I discovered something. There is no rule in the rulebook that requires us to keep things the same Now I have tons more time to spend on my patio area which I've recreated into a container haven. It's cool. There are places to sit. My son just told me tonight, "Mom, your plants are amazing. The whole patio looks really fantastic." Hope my musings are helpful in some way. Wellspring...See MoreGrass Growing Thru Landscape Fabric...HELP!
Comments (7)Prolly not. Do you know what kind of grass? I have Bermuda, but fortunately it is a not-too mutant strain and does die with Roundup. You may have created a paradox of sorts--the landscape fabric of course can't really kill the grass, but protects it from your Roundup. So all the healthy roots are just there waiting to poke up here and there. Either you will have to be super aggressive with the Roundup and spray each twig as it appears, every day for weeks, and even then you may have lots going on underneath and just waiting for the right moment to grow, so you may have to re-prepare the entire bed. You're hoping, I guess, you can smother it. There aren't any real smothering products for sale for your purpose. Depending on what you've got planted, you might be able to remove (and save) the mulch, remove the fabric, Roundup what you can see, place thick layers of cardboard or newspaper over the grassy areas, and mulch over that, and hope it is not the super-aggressive Bermuda or something that grows through wood! So you can read and search about smothering grass, lasagna gardening, no-till gardening and lots of related things. People will tell you things will work or not work, but it all depends on what your actual garden area, plants, grass and so forth are like. So, I have no idea whether you've got a grass disaster or something salvagable. And it depends on whether you just missed a few roots or whether you just put your stuff over living sod of an aggressive grass. How did you actually prepare the bed?...See MoreWhat is safe for killing grass where a citrus tree sits?
Comments (25)Surflan has NO mode of action as a contact or systemic killer of vegetation. It is, however, often used as a herbicide soup in combination with RoundUp (or other contact killer), a tank mix applied to kill existing vegetation and prevent germinating seeds, as well. Not something I would recommend to anyone who doesn't know what they are doing. Herbicides are the most misunderstood and misapplied pesticides in the world. And the most dangerous to the environment and the inhabitants of that environment (including us)....See MoreWhat Next? Do I remove all dead weeds after killing them?
Comments (9)Spectracide Weed Stop is a common broadleaf plant killer containing 2,4,D, Dicambra, and something else that does not come to mind right off. While it is not a really good product to use and while it can also kill plants you want to keep if due care in use is not observed, it is not quite as bad as some others mainly becasue the formulation is not really very strong. It is not quite as bad as maifleur makes the stuff out to be, and the manufacturer will simply tell you there is no problem. The most bestest way to control "weeds" in your lawn is to get that lawn into a good, healthy condition and that starts with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your counties office of your Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you toward a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out "weed" growth so you don't need those poisons. Here is a link that might be useful: CSU CES...See MorePhloxy
5 years agoashgreenpa7a
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoChance DeBoor
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agoB T
5 years ago
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