Need help figuring out what color schema to use for my facade
5 years ago
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- 5 years ago
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I need help figuring out what's wrong with my money tree/Pachira
Comments (9)Hi Cassidi, Your money tree is quite impressive, especially with you living in a dry climate like Colorado. Drooping leaves can sometimes be attributed to a root bound plant, meaning that the roots are choking each other and making it hard for the plant to get the air and water it needs. When was the last time you repotted your money tree? Misting will help with the browning on the tips. The average home is dryer than the sahara desert, mostly because of AC and frequent cool air movement. In the garden shop I work at we had a money tree doing the same browning and dropping of leaves as you described. Misting helped quite a bit. The black spots could be a bacterial problem. Did they show up after the plant started looking sad or before? If after, then they came because the plant was in a weakened state. If before, then the bacteria might be the source of the problems. Do the black spots turn into the little holes in your plant? If its bacteria then the only way you can control it is to pull all the leaves infected and throw them away. Also the cleaning mentioned above might help. I recommend letting the soil dry out between waterings. This allows the roots to breathe and would be a good recovery tactic if your plant is root bound. Also be sure to fertilize your plant with a slow release (preferably organic) fertilizer. This will allow the plant to take the nutrition it needs and not burn the plant like some liquid fertilizers can. Well, I hope I helped. Good luck on your Pachira's recovery. Sincerely, Roselyn Small...See MoreNeed help figuring out what is wrong with my tomato plant -photos
Comments (19)Hello bdank, It's nice to know you are born on Nov. 1 and you live in the United States, but it would also help if you revealed your geographical location quite specifically. Nobody's gonna bite you. Geography has everything to do with pathogens... and plant maintenance. And it works both ways. Give a little, and get a little. The rest of us also like to learn from your postings. Hence my personal disappointment in your lack of specificity in location. Here in slightly-inland coastal so california, I never spray for early blight... after some 15 years. I just cull the leaves so afflicted on a casual routine basis. I thought I saw late blight on one prized plant, lately... a much more frightful prospect... and I removed the plant entirely. Well, "lots of things" might have explained those dark lesions on my stems, I was told... but I was taking no chances. Early onset of late blight is a plague... and has wrought havoc in may eastern USA locations... so I heard... in 2009. I believe in "chemical warfare," too. Had my own chem lab as a 11 year old, for that matter. Could have blown my face off. But I didn't. My point is that chemicals have their place. And so does abstinence therefrom. Chemicals are both overrated and underrated. I wouldn't trust the best chemicals to protect my other plants from the spread of late blight. But I wouldn't bother with any chemicals at all for early blight. I also value the opinions of other long-time contributors, like Dr. Carolyn... who has dedicated her career... not just an avocation... to tomatoes and botany. Dr. Carolyn lives in a very different (eastern) climate than I do, however. Different remedies typically apply, based on geography. John...See MoreNeed help with my Adenium. cant figure out what is wrong.
Comments (8)You act fast, yo. The good news is that I do not see anything in the photo that will make me suspect the roots were damaged by the cold. You did not answer my questions though---that will give me an idea of whether you should be expecting cellular breakdown in the next few days or the wilted branches are the end of it. Did it actually experience frost? Or just cold? If so, how cold? For how long? The next thing to do is to give that thing another bath--remove all the old soil as much as possible. Then examine each of the branches that seemed damaged and trace the damage up to where it ends closest to the trunk. Then mark a spot about half an inch from that. That's where you will cut. This kind of damage may recover but I have personally never seen or risked it. I think it is prudent to remove all the damaged plant parts before they start decomposing. You're essentially pruning the plant. If you have an idea how you want it to look later on, you can prune it that way too, even if it means removing a lot of healthy tissue. Then, let the whole plant dry for a couple of days indoors, out of the sun. You can not put this plant outside anymore, until it shows new healthy growth and outdoor temperatures have risen back to 20C at night. If you already have bonsai plants, then you know how water moves around in containers. The same rules apply to adeniums---you need fast drainage and some water retention. In summer, they are as thirsty as tender tropicals. In winter, they should be treated like succulents unless you are able to provide summer temperatures for them. So, you can pot it up after it dries out for a couple of days---the easiest is half-and-half potting soil and perlite. I don't personally like this substrate but it will do in a pinch.If you have other potting materials like bark or pumice, use those instead and add as little soil as you feel comfortable with. I strongly recommend putting it in an unglazed pot. If you are up to it, add more holes to the pot. If not, one of those nursery pots with multiple drainage holes will be perfect. Worry about presentation later, when it recovers. Finally, while this plant is recovering, what it will need most is heat. It needs to be warm more than it needs to be lit. This means do not put it near a glass window. Put it on top of a radiator with a terracota water tray underneath.Or use a heat mat if you have it. If you have a sunny window that gets hot during the day, that will work but you can NOT leave it there at night when that glass gets cold. I hope the plant recovers. Pagan...See MoreHi! I need help figuring out what's going on with my succulent
Comments (13)If you're thinking of getting into this hobby a diamond tipped drill bit and a drill(friend's or own) will come in very handy. Once you have those, every container you see you will want to drill and plant some succulents inside. Now what your problem is, is that it is overwatered. The dark colouration is an early sign of rot, and it is wrinkly because the roots are probably dead due to rot and it has no way of getting water. What to do Find a pot with drainage or make your own. Take out plant, cut of somewhere 1-2cm above the dark area. Set the cutting somewhere shady and dry and let the wound callous over. This will take 3-7 days depending on climate. Once calloused over. Put into a good draining soil mix. Do not water till you see new growth. I would also advice you to read up or watch some youtube vids on how to save a plant from rot and how to propagate succulents. That way you will be more prepared. And from now on, if it ain't got a hole, make one....See More- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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