First off, I don't think I would put the laminate "wood" product next to real hardwood. I have seen a lot of floors lately that are using the marmoleum but in a striped pattern. It can help make a narrow area look wider, and it just looks really good. I'm not sure how I feel about the vinyl product that looks like stone. OT, remember you were asking about your back splash and the skinny tiles? (oh, gosh, I think it was you...but I am beginning to lose my mind lately) Well, yesterday, I saw Maria Killam's blog, "Colour Me Happy", and she did a little discussion about those skinny tiles. I'll post a link for you to take a look at. And of course I was a bit excited to see MY backsplash in the blog! AND she liked it! Maria LIKED MY back splash....sigh. Here is a link that might be useful: Colour Me Happy backsplash discussion.

Thanks for all the comments everyone. I especially like those pictures of knotty pine kitchens. I hadn't been using the right search terms to find examples of something like ours. I think it seems like, regardless of what we do... that black or stainless will work better. It just feels like white will stand out too much against the cabinets to do white on all appliances. The dishwasher (in picture) is currently black and goes well as it blends with the knots and the iron hardware. I think the idea of black stainless is cool. I'll have to look into that. I didn't really realize that the hood might not work well and need to be replaced. I guess if not going with retro color then to keep it black. I also like the suggestion of stainless steel for farmhouse sink (if of course it fits the cabinets). Especially if going with black appliances, I imagine it will stand out less. Plus, I'd think stainless steel is easier to keep clean, no worries about chipping and less prone to dish breakage. I'm not sure for the countertops or backsplash. Like I said, considering keeping counters but if we do change... it's tough to settle on stone. We aren't against laminate but at that point, why not keep the yellow one since I do think it's a good color choice. But would love suggestions. My wife mentioned subway tiles (white?) as a clean look against the knotted wood and it would go with the farmhouse sink and rustic feel. Would that work with the black appliances and dark wood or stand out too much? The soffits can also be wall color (which has yet to be decided but likely a cream color) or something different. Again thanks for help thus far and I welcome more ideas and opinions!

line the cabinet to the right up with the blocked spot above. It's ok to give exposed hoods some room on sides. I actually prefer this to give a more open look & keep the occasional heavy steam that did not get sucked up off the surrounding cabinets. same sizes on both sides for symmetry. Tile all the way up. Read the stove and hood instruction manuals for suggested placement. It also depends how much you cook, in what is the best type of hood & the spacing needed. Here's an example, that explains why.. From Proline Range Hoods FAQ section: "The third variable which affects the effective capture area of your range hood is the size of the hood. You can have the strongest and most powerful vent hood, with the best design, and if you don’t cover the cooktop and trap the cooking exhaust you can never get rid of it. This is especially true for range hoods over island cooktops. Once you have considered your cooking style consider the size of the range hood. Try to size the hood 6” larger in width than the cook top. Most range hoods come in 22-27” depths with some of the range hoods being 30” deep. The more coverage the better for the serious cooks. If you use your cooktop and you are serious about cooking then remember “coverage is king” especially in an island range hood setting. You can also help yourself by trying to keep your cooking over the primary capture area of your range hood. BBQ and Heavy Smoke cooking environments, both indoor and outside need coverage so size of the range hood is critical. Again, if you can catch the smoke and exhaust you can get rid of it but if you don’t “trap” or catch the smoke it is almost impossible to get rid of without removing an inefficient unnecessary amount of additional air in the room. All of which must be heated or air conditioned in most cases." http://www.prolinerangehoods.com/1-801-973-3959/support/common-questions/

Bamboo is a tricky duck. It requires HIGH END production to get the 'cast iron' finish people claim it to have. A high-end product starts around $10/sf and moves (quickly) into the $15/sf range. The link you showed is $2.70/sf. If you MUST float a bamboo floor (or any solid wood-like product) please use the 'glue edge' approach. And please work with something in the 3/4" range. And please work with something CERTIFIED as 'old growth bamboo' (which is classified as grass poles 9 years or older). I can pretty much guarantee the $2.69/sf click together bamboo is not going to give you the easy life nor the 'cast iron' wear touted by bamboo lovers. Bamboo lovers will have purchased the $12 - $15/sf stuff that is solid strand old growth product in a natural colour. And it was probably installed with a glue down system (the really tough bamboo is horrible to puncture with a nail or staple gun!). If $3/sf is your budget and you are looking at a click together floor, you can purchase a VERY VERY nice laminate for that range. As in 'European Grade' product with off-gassing that is LESS than a jar of pickles!