Here's how it might work. Pick an inspiration...in this case the fabric...which works with a turquoise island. From the fabric pick a wall color, a ceiling color and the turquoise you want for the island. You can then use the colors in the rest of the palette to bring all your rooms together...maybe use the lighter palette in the LR, the medium colors in the dining area...keep the chairs in the yellow green tones and maybe select the gold tone or the deeper taupe to use on the pew fabric. I'd use the same fabric for the drapes in the dining area as I did in the kitchen. I'd select a more formal fabric though for the LR. I'd probably pick the soft beige for the LR walls. If you don't like this fabric or this color way, that's ok...it's just an example of how this could work for you.

There really is no substitution for testing the colors in your space and different light through the day. For a suppposedly neutral color, greys can be tricky. Fact of the matetr is that a greyy can be any color plus black or some canceling tones. Revere Pewter goes violet on me and Edgecomb grey a bit green in some rooms. I wound up going to Sherwin Williams and trying their colors. Agreeable Grey was the right tone for my living areas, but I am doing them at 150% to get a little deeper color. I am using Anew Grey in my entry and stairwell -- that hasn't been done yet. . More important to your question about going with cool and warm colors -- the Agreeable Grey in my FR had to work with red brick, cherry hutch and dark wood floors as well as blue, green and white in the upoho;stery, rug and kitchen cabinets and counters. Anything that tended green made the red brick fireplace more intense and anything too warm made it pinker/orangier. Agreeable Grey at 100% was too light -- was too close to my grout and looked chalky, so we just added more color and went to 150%. SInce it is a light color to begin with, it is still light, just richer. The result was amazing -- my red brick calmed down. No more orangey, purpley/brown red. And it is so soft and neutral with the blues,, green and white. We did the ceiling at a reduced value. It was the first time I had used SW paints and as much as I liked BM, I was just as pleased with this job (DIY).

Simulating wood with a photographic applique layer under a clear protective layer, laminate is just a composite. I would not consider spending money on a laminate floor at this point. It isn’t a better solution than going with the ivory carpet for a few years. Laminate is $, but it's noisy and doesn’t like water. "Water can cause laminate flooring to swell if it gets between the seams. Being made of pressed board, laminate can easily chip--especially the critical tongue and groove sections.” Where I would spend extra money is on the padding under the rug. That will go a long way to help keep the rug clean. It isn’t the rug fibre which stains, it is whatever liquid has soaked into the pad that keeps coming back to haunt you. Spend a few cents extra and ask for Mohawk Smart Step. it has a coating which keeps any liquid from soaking into the pad. If it needs to be seamed, have them duck-tape the seams. I have a light wool wall to wall carpet. Should something spill, I grab a dry cloth or paper towel or newspaper and step on it until all the liquid is out of the rug. Then, use a combo of water and ammonia, and just dab at it. Actual dirt or mud, just let it dry and then vacuum.

I had already one wall in dark grey that I love it, but I need help with the others walls. I bought a light grey in sherwin Williams but when I painted the color change to light blue , and I don’t like it