Loves2read, funny that the Florida Cl seems better than your Dallas CL. I found the opposite, with much better CL options here in Milwaukee vs Florida. Maybe because there is such old stock here. Most of Florida seems to have been populated after the 60's, and I am not too keen on the quality of recently made furniture. I'd rather rehab something solid wood. My needs are unique, though: dirt cheap but great potential. And I have time to search out pieces and to rehab them. I just finished a $7 Goodwill chair that started like this and now is this I am learning to sew and upholster practicing on the guest rooms, ha. The chair will go in the twin bedroom for which I just found those wicker headboards. I have miles of the red fabric ($1/yd) for bedskirts and scored 2 new oatmeal linen Shabby Chic duvets at Goodwill into which I'm slipping clearance Kohl's $16 quilts. I have a free dresser that needs painting, and some Goodwill wicker lamps. Some CL desks and tables, and a little yardsale dhurrie rug. Sew up some pillows. DH and I will make artwork - and I use the term loosely. Voila! One room done. I found it helps to let a vision evolve in your head for each room. I go nowhere now without my notepad filled with fabric scraps, paint colors and dimensions.

The fencing from HD and Lowes is thinner than what many fence companies use (but not all). Recently was looking at some HD/Lowes fencing and you really do have to call the manufacturer to find out thickness, AND you have to ask the same questions of the fence companies. For example, one HD/Lowes style of 6' privacy fencing I was looking at (manufactured in the USA by Barrette) had 0.035" thick pickets, 0.065" rails and 0.135" thick posts, while the fence companies vinyl had 0.050" pickets, 0.080" rails and 0.150" thick posts. So as you can see there is a definite material difference. However just having thinner material doesn't mean HD/Lowes fence product isn't any good, just that it probably won't be as strong. But the real important question is how strong do you need, and would 0.035" pickets be strong enough? Answers to questions like this seem scarce on the internet, so all you find are fence companies saying they use thicker material that will be stronger, but again, maybe I don't care if what HD/Lowes has is already good enough, especially given the cost savings. Obviously we don't want pickets bowing and blowing off the rails b/c of a 30 mph wind gust, so they do need some strength. From what I've found reading reviews on HD/Lowes, is their fencing seems to hold up just fine, in fact one reviewer said their fence held up perfectly against hurricane Sandy this last year, and another reviewer in Arizona (where they have very high winds) also has had no issue with pickets blowing off in the wind. The other issue about vinyl falling apart after 5 or 10 years did used to be true, based on my internet searches, but apparently that was vinyl fencing made without UV inhibitors (TiO2) and impact modifiers, so it got brittle, flaked, turned yellow, fell down when hit by a weed whacker, etc, but no one (except maybe imported stuff) uses that anymore. The other big thing is to avoid any fencing that requires brackets to hold it together, make sure you buy the kind with holes in the posts for the rails, and make sure you get tongue and groove pickets with u-channels (some styles at HD/Lowes have both, but others don't, so review their listings very carefully). I guess my conclusion would be if you buy the right type of fence from HD/Lowes, you will probably do just fine and save quite a bit of money (though you don't want to have them do the install b/c they'll nail you on that)!

I agree about talking to several realtors, you should also try to attend a few open houses. Let the realtors know you are willing to make some changes if it results in a greater ROI for you. In my last home the realtor saw the house a few months prior to selling, and made minor suggestions. She told us a target list price. We painted the entry/living room/dining room, decluttered, did staging, painted the vanity in the main floor bath and added a granite top/vessel sink (which was trendy at the time) as well as a mirror. We put furniture in storage. We probably spent $800. When the realtor returned she revised the price by 20K. It sold in a little over a month and we sided to a busy street. That said, provide pictures. I agree with nosoccermom, people want no hassle. Most people do not go on garden web, they want a house that is done, and/or have NO imagination. Used carpet, even if well-maintained will be a turnoff, they would rather have inexpensive tan carpet and walls than $100/yard used carpet or custom painted walls. If your carpet is not neutral and close to new replace it. Ask the realtor, but I don't think you can get money back on hardwoods unless you have them already and refinish. Watch an episode or two of House Hunters. The majority of the buyers believe granite counters and SS appliances = nice home. Some get hung up on paint colors.

Installation is key. Is the "designer" being paid by the builder? If so, recognize she/he will be less than forthcoming about installation. Ask the builder this direct question. How many floors have you/builder had to replace? Do you have a copy of the Builder Warranty? That should state what warranty is associated with most major elements of your home. However, warranties are only as good as the "initial" sub. If you do the tiling yourself, you own the warranty or the company you use. Most builders would not let you do that much major work outside their control. The methods for installing, quality of the subflooring, amount of thinset or other materials are very important. Ask what the underlayment is for the vinyl if you go that way. There are many approaches and lots of variables. Good luck. Hope you have a good meeting! btw, if you just can't get it all done, arrange for a second appointment. The world won't stop. It's your money!