As for recommendations for colors I always start, like you, with a few samples, then decide if I need to go a bit more gray or more colorful, a bit warmer or a bit cooler. I use a tool called easyrgb, and my eyes, to help get me where I need to be ( https://www.easyrgb.com ) You can look up a color and see what the similar colors are to a specific color and limit the selection to the brands you are considering. The site uses a very high quality spectrophotometer to read colors from unused fan decks. Fan decks are printed using very good color matching technology and high levels of quality control, but they are not perfect and there is always some discrepancies, but it is a great starting place. I also have a color muse ($50.00 tristimulous color matching tool) that is good for comparing two colors and will provide you with color matches to popular brands of paint colors. It is a $50.00 tool, so don't expect perfection - but again, it will get you close. If you have something that you own that is the color you are looking to match it is the only tool that most of us can afford that will give you the information needed to get close. I have also sometimes used something as simple as excel to help me get to the right color. You can look up the RGB value - color two or three cells with the RGB Value, then change the color in one of the cells using the "More colors" option and the HSL option and I can make a color a bit less or more saturated, a bit lighter or darker, a bit warmer or cooler and then look up the new RGB value in Easy RGB and see what colors it suggests. Computers/monitors in general suck at rendering color accurately, but as long as I have something that I know I can move from that color to the correction and get where I want to be as a final result. The best numbers to use to slightly alter a color is probably the LCH notation in EasyRGB. Look up the color you like in easyrgb Hit the convert button and you will see the LCH notation. L = light (100 is white, 0 is black) C =Chroma (0 is neutral gray and the higher the number the more colorful the color becomes) H= Hue - what is the Hue measurement of the color Red=18 Orange = 54 Yellow=90 Green=160 Blue=234 Purple=306 Blue Heron CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.533 16.209 275.902° If I then look up the two closest SW colors I get Denim Blue - Just a bit less purple more true blue - just a bit more saturated - less gray and just slightly lighter CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 46.929 16.932 270.463° and Luxe Blue - more purple - not the direction I want to go. CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.501 18.259 279.397° Before buying samples of anything more I use my eyes - take the chips into natural daylight and look at them next to each other to see if what I am expecting is what I am seeing.

Hi - these 2 colours sit increasingly further clockwise on the Color Strategist Wheel, away from Pale Oak. They will likely apoear a a little cooler by comparison. So in your setting, they are somewhat less likely to shift quite as pinky-purple. Sometimes, just moving a few degrees can make a difference, sometimes you may have to move a whole lot further to mitigate colour shift. These are a both a touch darker (lower Value) than Pale Oak + more colourful (higher Chroma). They have the capacity to appear a little greenish where Pale Oak reads well for you. But maybe less likely to do so where Pale Oak looks a little pink/purple. If either is too dark? Then you need a colour with higher Value. If either is too colourful? Then you are looking for a colour with a lower Chroma. If these still read too pinkish? Then moving further clockwise again could help mitigate that. Viewing large paint chips or samples in your space, with your lighting will help indicate how they are likely to behave for you. #huefamilies #value #chroma

I would keep the Ceiling White paint. Here is a chart that illustrates wall and trim color combinations.

The closest is this Sherwin Williams colour.