Ahhh...one of the disadvantages of roll out tray shelves (ROTS)! Drawers are so much better! I can say it b/c I have the same problem you do! I forgot to order one cabinet as a "trash pullout" for our Pet Center and ended up with one that has two ROTS as well as a drawer above...and unless I'm careful I also hit the doors! It's made worse in that I have soft-close so the ROTS take their time closing and I have to wait for them to close. To be honest, I tried the bumpers but they didn't stick for long. I'm down to cultivating patience when I use that cabinet. I'm glad all my other cabinets are drawers or pullouts attached to the doors (except the sink bases). Do any or all of your cabinets have just one door? If so, you might consider removing the hinges and attaching the doors to the bottom ROTS (and put that ROTS as low as you can in the cabinet). Then, you can pull it open and then, if needed, pull open the other ROTS. There's no more effort...for the bottom ROTS, it's one less action, for the other ROTS, it's the same # of actions. I don't know what to tell you to do about those cabinets with two doors...that's what I have on my one cabinet like that and I haven't figured out a solution yet...other than to order a new door...and I'm seriously considering it. Could you do that?

I know this is an old post but I could not help but notice that they we going to use Latex on their kitchen cabinets. This is not a good idea for kitchen cabinets this meant for walls only or trim but knot cabinets. If it is too late and you want to still protect the finish you can try coating the white cabinets with a clear non yellowing water base catalyzed conversion varnish. We have a small finishing shop that does high end finishing for number of cabinet shops. One product that I would recommend to go over your existing finish is ESC coatings CON-Var Clear finish this is a catalyzed conversion varnish water base finish which pretty fairly easy to spray and it adheres very well to existing finishes. It is water resistant and does not yellow once catalyzed. Check out https://ecostepscoating.com/. Another tip would be to also add more protection in problem areas such as the sink doors and the trash pull drawer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vc3LT5EVDo these areas will need something extra to ensure minimal damge can occur over time check out https://www.cabinethero.com/

My very-much-on-a-budget family has a nice new Wilsonart laminate countertop. I ran my finger under the overhanging edges and, sure enough, there is laminate on top and particle board underneath. My kids splash a lot (the previous countertop disintegrated due to splashing which caused water leaking which did about what you'd expect to fiberboard), and I hate messing with anything oil based if I can avoid it plus I'm terrified of ruining the look of my beautiful new countertop by smearing something icky on it, so after much internet research, here's what I'm trying: (1) two coats of Minwax water based polycrylic, which is alleged to give a crystal clear finish and it apparently does. (2) after the Minwax has had a week to cure, I'm going to pick a day when the countertop is super dry (ship the kids to Siberia for a couple days maybe?) and then protect the most vulnerable area (the three feet directly in front of the sink, we don't have a dishwasher), by running a cut to fit half inch strip of duck tape along it, on the theory that duck tape fixes everything and it won't be conspicuous since it will be underneath the countertop lip. Duck tape kept the old countertop functioning a couple of years beyond its normal life span, so maybe I should just start off right and get the duck tape in place BEFORE the MDF has a chance to get wet. ____________________________ I'm quite nervous about my method. There's a big online controversy over whether it's okay to use waterbased polycrylic on MDF - one person alleges that use of water based polycrylic will cause the MDF to separate from the laminate because hey, it's water based! - but others think it's okay, so I decided to try it. The two coats of polycrylic did cause the MDF grain to come up - it was smooth before and it's now rough to touch - but I don't know if that's good (because it absorbed the polycrylic and will now be impervious to water) or bad (because the nay-sayer who says it will cause the laminate to separate is correct.) I'll let you know in a year or so how the countertop is getting along and whether it is in peaceful co-existence with the kids!

I second GreenDesigns. You want new cabinets? Take care of them. Take the time to wipe up water spills. Minor food smudges can be wiped away later, but you are talking about leaving dripped water or food on your cabinets until you.... get around to it, whenever? Whether stained or painted, you should make the attempt to care for them or why bother with wood at all? And now you wish to hang some kind of thin plastic around your sink to protect your cabinets... again, why even bother with new cabinets. I don't mean to be harsh, but I'm an admitted 'mess' in the kitchen, and I have learned to keep wet hands wiped off, grab a towel from the counter to dab off drips.. it's not hard and takes but a second. I'm not sure what type of plastic you're referring to, but if you can stand how it'll look just so you don't have to briefly mop up your drips, it might scratch the back of your cabinets, it might, as you worry, create moisture buildup over time that you can't see until the damage is done.