Whatever will I do with myself: FACEBOOK DOWN
7 years ago
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How to save bottle gentian seeds - or whatever I need to do to?
Comments (2)I have been doing prairie plating for over 30 years and experiment with many so called difficult native seed. This is what I know about all the gentians in zone five area. Collect bottle gentian pods just after they have faded and have turned brown but before the pod opens all the way. The pod is ripe when the top opens slightly. Gentian seed should never dry out. This is the key to all the gentians. I put them in a plastic ziplock bag so they stay moist. I take them home open the pods and then add moist ( not wet) sand to the seed and put them in the fridge until its time to sow. You will find a lot of the pods of seed contain small worms that eat the seed just discard them as you open the pods. The seed can be kept in the fridge but after about three months they can start to germinate in the bag so I usually sow them before the snow flys. I have grown the stratified gentian after two months in the fridge but they are very slow growing and it is just easier to sow where you want them. I have grown thousands on restorations this way. This also works for all the gentians. Never let the seed dry out. Good luck....See MoreHeat Load Calculation... Can I do this myself?
Comments (5)I've heard there are online programs. You need to know your house construction pretty well to get an accurate calculation. Below is an example of how one exterior wall would be rated. Then you also figure windows and doors after that. Walls: (Each exterior wall, on each floor, must be done individually) Any windows and doors in a wall must be included with that particular wall. A rough drawing of each wall can be supplied, if easier, showing windows and doors. All measurements, in feet and inches for walls, windows, and doors, must be included for the length, width, or height. What direction does the wall face? O North O Northeast O Northwest O East O East Northeast O East Southeast O West O West Northwest O West Southwest O South O Southeast O Southwest O A: Wood frame, with sheathing, siding or brick Wall cavity O None O R-11 3 ½" O R-13 4" O R-19 5 ½" O R-27 7 ½" O R-30 8 ½" O R-33 9-10" Select exterior insulation O None O R-1.3 ½" Asphalt board O R-1.8 ½" Beadboard O R-2.5 ½" Extruded poly board O R-2.7 ¾" Beadboard O R-3.6 1 in. Beadboard O R-3.8 ¾" Extruded poly board O R-5.0 1" Extruded poly board O R-8 Sheathing O B: Masonry, above grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8" or 12" block O 8" block and 4" brick O C: ICF Insulated concrete form, above grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36 O D: SIP Structural Insulated Panels O 4 ½" panel O 6 ½" panel Exterior finish O Stuco or siding O Brick O Split logs on both sides O E: Logs Circle the log thickness: 6" 7" 8" 9" 10" 11" 12" O F: Block or brick, extends to 5 below grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8 or 12 inch block O G: Block or brick, extends over 5 below grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8 or 12 inch block O H: ICF, extends to 5 below grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36 O I: ICF, extends over 5 below grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36...See MoreDo you ever get to the "whatever' stage?
Comments (46)greenacresmama I absolutely agree with you that some things are better felt when one lives in the house already..thus can be considered better, chosen more wisely But. My experience..was it especially draining or just draining like everybody else's I can't judge(I am getting very exhausted easily lately that's true..disproportionally so) but after two years of re-building, I don't have it within myself to do anything significant. We have to do some hardscaping/landscaping yet..we looked at each other me and DH,,imagined going through something albeit much smaller even for a month or so..we told each other "next year"..we still have to install one closet..our guys didn't do it on time and we told them "we'll find somebody local"..6 month fast forward, still no closet.. no, I think-as hard as it was to imagine everything, plan everything, source everything, put everything together..be my own freaking designer..and lighting designer..:) (I'm the opposite..banned can lights from all spaces but utilitarian-kitchen, bath, corridor..but ceiling lights pendants and chandeliers are everywhere I could put them..that's how I grew up-we always had overhead lighting..and yes I have table lamps, sconces, floor lamps as well..love all lights, don't discriminate..except for poor can things..)..in short as hard as it was..it's past me. Mostly. I wouldn't have the stamina to go through things once again.. I'm happy to be at stage I'm agonizing over art placement..the rest is whatever. There's just a limit to that building/rebuilding/remodeling thing..I easily believe everybody has theirs, depending on age energy circumstances..I for now reached mine. I'm tired as hell-still. It's easier to be tired as hell in a house that is already what you envisioned it to be, more or less. But again. Putting my personal experience aside-there's wisdom in what you saying. One learns to know himself I suppose, and know his MO, and what will work for him. That's why I listed our previous place in the worst time possible..because I know my husband and his MO. We'd still be carrying that other house, caring for it trying to show it to sell or to rent it and handle the landlord thing..no. Just no. That would give us a bit more money. But it would do us in. Had to wrap this thing with handling two houses up. And my husband doesn't like wrapping things up. So I insisted. So we probably got 10-15 K less than if in spring market. But we kept at least some of our remaining sanity. (Of course judging by the sheer volume of this post it's hard to definitely tell lol)))...See MoreWhat do I need to do this permeable paver driveway myself?
Comments (16)Thanks for all of the above. Sophie, I don't doubt the described requirements generally, but--per my post--I think our job is a lot smaller than that described in the posted video (for example). I realize I don't have a good photo to share (it's dark now, I'll see if I can do something about that tomorrow). Let me see if I can come at this a different way... This is a remedial project. I could leave things as they are and have a half mud/half stone/half weed (yes, I know) driveway, and keep spraying things left and right. There's adequate manual labor locally to excavate the area in question to a certain depth at a modest cost. Removal of excavated material is a different issue, but I'd deal with it. This is a section of driveway that almost never gets "driven on"; cars occasionally park on it, but almost always briefly, when guests come and we want to clear the 'upper semicircle'. My plan would be to excavate as much as minimally necessary to lay a reasonable foundation (stone and sand with vibration, which I can rent), lay a weed barrier (Costco?), then lay the pavers (per the original post), and fill with stones. This would all be better than what I have now. Is it pro? no. Is it perfect? no. Is it better than what I have now? Maybe. Could it be closer with your suggestions on squaring the circle? That's up to the assembled masses! Thanks for your help!...See More- 7 years ago
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