New Products - Miracle Grow Organics and Scotts Soil Improver
5 years ago
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- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years agolkayetwvz5 thanked Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
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Comments (12)Personally, people can use whatever they want to sow their seed. GW has a huge array of forums where you can discuss in length this, that or the other thing. At WS, if your post is about sowing and growing, seeds and seedlings, dealing with people's reactions to WS, and anything else related to WS and the seedlings it produces then gab away. Just my personal opinion, but edgy posts should go to Hot Topics where you'll find a lot more people to dialogue with about whatever it is that irks....See MoreGrowing blueberry plants organically in containers
Comments (31)Otto, Talking about blueberries, I became really addicted with blueberries and collected over 30 different cultivars (both Southern High bush and Rabbit eye inclusive) with single and multiple plants in the past two years totalling 46 plants (all of them in containers) so far. My target is maximum of 50 plants and I am nearly saturated with blueberry plants, lol. Spinosad (derived from the fermentation juices of a lowly soil bacterium called Saccharopolyspora spinosa) is a relatively new insect killer that quickly and safely controls a variety of caterpillars, beetles and thrips pests. To chemists, spinosad is a complex molecule known as a "glycosylated macrolactone;" but to gardeners with a hankering for safer products, it may be a godsend. Bacillus thuringiensis, known for years to savvy gardeners as "Bt", has been a standard weapon for the war against caterpillars. As an insecticide, Bt is a safe, selective product for caterpillars. However, Bt lacks staying power. Instead of Bt's one or two days' residual, spinosad keeps killing for up to four weeks. In addition, spinosad kills thrips, which Bt doesn't faze. If you grow citrus and have leaf miners problem, spinosad takes care of that as well. If you have fire ants problem, spinosad takes care of them as well. The only downside is spinosad also kills honey bees, the pollinator for plants. It is recommended to spray spinosad either very early in the morning or late at night....See MoreWhy grow organically and where to start?
Comments (31)Labradors I'm still developing my rotate methods. I've been getting one of the blights and tried growing Caliente 199 mustard with mixed results. Since my garden was too small to rotate crops, I started a small new test plot. I grew 4 tomatoes there without problems. So the next year I started another, the third, new plot between a peach and an apple tree. That also was blight free, the following year the blight started up in the third plot. The second plot didn't have problems till the third year. So I'm working this year on a large 34x74' fenced garden. I won't be able to plant up the entire plot. In the first year I hope to plant potatoes, 24 tomatoes, and some pole beans. I may get some fall crops in later. In the second year, hopefully I'll get some land dug up to move the tomatoes and the potatoes to new spots. In the meanwhile I plan to just mow what's not ready to plant. In short I'm thinking 3 years to dig up this garden and then rotate on a 3 year cycle. I have 10 posts cut in the woods, one still needs hauled. It's a white oak 14 foot long and 5 to 6 inches on the bottom and 4 or 5" on the top. I have it up off the ground, hopefully it'll dry a little. I'm going to try a 2 wheel dolly tied to the bottom....See MoreAnyone used this type of soil amendment?
Comments (19)I looked up the two products mentioned in the previous thread. The Miracle Grow Performance Organics ($9 FOR 26lbs) looks like an organic compost blend with some organic NKP added as well, but I couldn't find any mention of biochar in any of the literature I dug around for. The Scotts Foundation ($30lbs for 14lbs) product shows to be 60% volcanic ash, 30% Coconut Biochar and 10% Attapulgite Clay. The product that I'm looking at for turf maintenance is 47% compost 47% biochar 2% bacillus & mycorrhizal. (40lb bagged and I'm still waiting on an exact price as I'm buying a whole pallet, but hopefully around $25.) Seemingly to my eye quite different--or more focused on the biochar and the "soil food web." The stuff I've read about biochar indicates that you need to "inoculate" or "charge" the biochar with compost or it will suck that OM from the soil and tie it up until things get balanced out. That creates a delay or "worse before it gets better" situation. I'm definitely going to pull some bags to be tried out in the garden, so we will see. About green manure: I've looked into it, but I'm not willing to risk pastures being offline for so long. I do throw some clover seeds in when we over seed with fescue, but not a lot. The clover I get only germinates well in the better areas of soil. My pastures are usable and I don't want to take one offline for not just the time to grow the crop but then to regrow the grass. Regrowing grass for pasture can be a year before it's really up to grazing and if you have a bad growing season after planting you can lose another year. Another thing I do is mow and leave the clippings instead of allowing it to be hayed which probably helps a little too....See MoreRelated Professionals
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