My vote goes for leaving the figs in the greenhouse until all danger of frost is past. The green leaves and new green growth can and probably will be damaged by temperatures at 32F and below. The mature wood from which the the new growth emerged will probably survive unless the temperature is well below freezing, but the growth of the figs will be set back considerably. About 5 days ago, we had two unusual late frosts here in Zone 8B Texas. The first night, the air temperature was about 33F. There was a light frost on the ground. The second night, the air temperature was about 33F or 34F, but the air was still and there was a fairly heavy frost on the ground. We have 14 in-ground fig trees and many more in pots. The figs in the large pots were just breaking dormancy and survived relatively unscathed. The first night, we covered 13 of the in-ground fig trees. (One is too big to cover.) After we removed the covers the next day and assessed the status of the new growth, it was pretty much a wash. I think that the covers did offer some protection, but the weight of the covers moved by the wind on the tender new growth did significant damage. The second night, when there was a heavy frost, I did not cover the in-ground figs. New growth at ground level was killed outright, but most of the leaves that were higher from the ground survived, although some of the youngest terminal leaves were damaged. Several weeks ago, after an unusually mild winter, my in-ground Mission fig tree broke dormancy and leafed out. A 29F night killed all emerged leaves on the Mission tree. However, it has rebounded, more growth has emerged, and the tree has young, healthy leaves over most of the tree. It would have been better to leave your fig trees dormant as long as possible, but as they say, "hindsight is 20-20"! If the roof of your greenhouse is sturdy and won't be damaged by the fig branches pushing against it a little, I would let the fig trees be. If you think that the greenhouse would be damaged, I would prune the trees back a bit. I suspect that they will endure that indignity better than a freeze. Many of my small potted figs leafed out 1 1/2 mo. ago. I got them through the few frosts since then by trundling them in and out of a storeroom. If potted figs are dormant or even have a few leaves, you can give them a degree of protection in temperatures hovering at the freezing point by keeping them close to a dwelling under a covered deck with open sides or by keeping them under the canopy of a large tree. If the temperature falls much below freezing, though, those measures will not suffice for figs that are not dormant.

Mary, they've been in storage so let's assume they have been kept in a cool place, have not been watered, and kept out of light. Now the sun is returning, soon it will be April and high time stored plants can come ouf dormancy and given fresh potting soil, a clean pot, something to keep the soil away from the drainage holes, the plant cut back to encourage new foliage and water to enable it to take up nutrition. The amount of cut-back is up to you but usually 4" is a good size to take it back to. Clean away all old stems, broken or damaged, any old leaves or flowers hanging on. Use sharp scissors or pruners so that you see good green. Soaking the roots will be done after you plant it because you will water the plant until drainage is seen below. Soaking the roots might be considered if you feel they wont get the required water when you water the plant but if you give it frsh soil, a thorough watering after planting, there should be no concern for the roots getting their fill. The water that accumulates in the saucer below will be left for about 10 minutes to allow full drainge....then dumped so that it cannot be re-sucked up around the roots which got rid of it. Then given the best sun you can give it...south or west or east is a good esposure and in about 10 days you should begin to see new growth and advancing foliage each day for about a month when the foliage will be quite full. When first watered, no more water unttil it begins to foliate, then only as the plant needs it. Every time you water, water to drainage and dump the excess. Poke your finger down to test whether dampness is there...if so, let it go another 2 - 3 - 4 days, then test again. Do not overwater...the plant can only use a little at this time....its the sun that determines how fast the plant grows and its easy to water too much thinking the plant needs it. The finger test is a reliable way to determine that. Each or every other day, turn the plant 1/4 turn thus ensuring all parts of the plant is receiving adequate sun. Don't be concerned if the flowring doesn't come before setting it outside--it will come in its time. When temperatures outside allow it, put it out during daylight hours, back indoors at night, back outside -- indoors...each day giving longer periods and acclimatizing it when it will go out and stay out. Geraniums expand greatly their roots and can be given containers that suit their roots.

Thank you everyone. What an interesting conversation this has become! tomt226 and stevie: I am definitely going to practice with a cutting during the summer to see what its all about. Lot of healthy new growth around the garden now. Thank you so much! Its a great idea. I have been thinking about it, the only draw back, if at all, is to make sure the cuttings root and stay alive through the winter. Just like making sure the dug out plants make it. Seems like the cuttings would take less room and are less work. But the important question was, the whole point of overwintering for me was to get a significant head start on the season and get more peppers (for those peppers that take a long time to form and ripen). Starting from seed means, no matter how early, having to go through the maturation process. I was hoping overwintering a mature plant would take off one or two months of the maturation time the next season. That would be the reason to go trough all the trouble. That isn't all that true then? Does one get better head start with cuttings? esox07: thank you so much for taking the time to post such an illustrative and explanatory post. It answers many of the questions that are swirling in my mind. You know many years ago I was in love with fragrant tropical plants and did this whole dance of taking in all those plants. The insects and cleaning. I felt exactly as you are describing. But in my current excitement I am forgetting all that. Are you saying then, that there really isn't that much to be gained by overwintering? The tropical plants were my pets, they were not for fruit production. Pepper plants are different, at least at this time. Thank you! K.

The other three are different varieties. And I honestly didn't think I would have success with the cuttings I took from the neighbor's bush. It is kinda like tomato plants....I can't kill them now that they appear to be still living. I have plenty of acreage to set them out once they are growing well next year. I tried the coir (the stuff that comes in a brick) because 1) I had it and didn't have any perlite 2) it drains well yet still holds moisture - something I read was important. Thanks for the soak in a bucket trick. I am going to try to separate and repot. I think they will be fine in the smaller pots till spring. We only have a couple more months before fall then frost which should slow growth.