Shade, heavy clay, poor drainage, z7a
jc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years ago
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jc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agoRelated Discussions
building a raised flower bed in response to poor drainage
Comments (19)Gravel or coarse sand added to an entire planting area can help to improve drainage because it introduces spaces in between the soil particles for water to penetrate, but it takes quite a lot to have much of an effect. And it needs to be fully incorporated into the soil to a significant depth, not applied as a layer. The accepted horticultural convention is that organic matter (i.e. compost) is preferred for this purpose, as its decomposition over time improves soil fertility and structure in addition to increasing the pore space. The incorporation of the gravel or compost into the entire planting area is the same theory behind not amending individual planting holes - amending creates situations of different soil structure adjacent to each other - this impedes root development as well as water penetration. It's called soil interface issues and if your "landscaper" is self-taught or long out of school, he may not be familiar with the both the theory and the current practices. Establishing a border of drain rock at the front base of the wall where it meets the lawn (or whatever) should help to reduce the wading pool effect. It is a pretty common application here with heavy, poorly draining NW soils and if deep and wide enough, relatively effective. It can even have the appearance of a dry stream bed (or mostly dry) and become part of the garden aesthetic as well as being a highly functional application....See MorePoor drainage, thin turf...What do I do?
Comments (5)Yes and yes. If you live in a condo you might not have control over the water schedule. Getting control of it can be a nightmare. Mulch is only in the form of mowed over leaves, not actual mulch. The mulch has to disappear below the blades of grass. I call it micro-mulch (where can I trademark that word???) You also need to control mowing height. Where you're located you should have a cool season grass like fescue or Kentucky bluegrass. Again if the condo assn wants the grass mowed tight to the ground, just forget about having it look really nice. Crabgrass LOVES to be mowed close to the ground. I was hoping you'd forget you asked about aeration and sand. Sand really won't help you if you need more living microbes in the soil. Mechanical aerating will give you a lot of peace of mind but it might not be the long term panacea you're looking for. If you aerate, aerate the snot out of it. Run it north, south, east, west, and every combination of compass headings you can come up with. I saw some pretty convincing pictures from a regular here. I believe he said he had about 12 holes per square foot when it was finished. Also if you have high and low spots in your yard, you can sweep the plugs removed by the aerator into the low spots to raise them slightly. Otherwise just leave the plugs where they land. If you read the organic lawn care faq and wonder where to find a feed store in Berkley, ask anyone who owns a horse. Or call your local county sheriff. They know where all the horses are in the county. The crabgrass does not surprise me but shade and crabgrass don't mix. Is the crabgrass growing in the sun? If not then you don't have crabgrass but probably have another pest. And if you have that much crabgrass I'm going to suggest you try to switch your turfgrass to Kentucky bluegrass. It really needs sun, too, but what you have isn't working (can you thin out the trees??). The nice thing about KBG is that it does not thin out like fescue types of grass, it thickens up. Of course it needs some sun to to do that. Just to set a goal for you, I'm going to post a picture of a fully organic KBG lawn grown with no weed killers. His only maintenance is infrequent watering and mowing high (and organic fertilizer). Now as to the crabgrass, it does not like deep infrequent watering. It like daily watering for 10-20 minutes per day. It also does not like shade. If your grass looks like that above, you'll note there are no thin or bare spots. There is no place for crabgrass to get hold. He could have crabgrass on both sides of that lawn but it cannot penetrate the dense turf. Mowing high and infrequent watering will take care of crabgrass in most lawns. Fescue lawns are different from most other turfgrasses and need to be reseeded every year or so for maximum density. It can be done but KBG is so much easier to handle. Something else to consider if shade cannot be opened up is planting other ground covers. There is a dwarf mondo grass that looks like short grass that has curled over on top. It loves shade and will very slowly take over the lawn. I had two small patches in my grass when we moved in in 1992 and they are now 6 feet across. I really should do something about that, sigh....See MoreShade to part shade plants for soggy clay soil
Comments (6)I have a sunny wet area like that. Maybe these will work: (after the plants grew, the soil didn't stay so wet) Winterberry holly, daylillies, chokeberries, bog iris, mock orange, rose of sharon, sedum, houtyannia(sp?), siberian iris, hosta. Just plant and try. I've found that some things that work in my yard,won't in a neighbors yard and viceversa. Good Luck...See MoreUneven Lawn. Poor Drainage. Sparse Grass. What to do?
Comments (5)I am confused by what you said about the water running beside your house. From the two pictures it looks like the slope goes from (Picture wise) from left to right, but also falls away from the house toward the street (Foreground). If this is the case, the creation of a swale to direct the water further out into the yard on the left side would take care of much of the problem. While I can not see the left side of the house you may need a little work to divert the water to the front of the house. While there does not look like much of a slope on the right side of the house with the swale and what slope there is could resolve this area. To me the biggest problem with the front yard is the sidewalk? that come out towards the street. That could be rebuilt or removed without much work. As for what appears as unlevelness, that would be best determined when you are on the mower. To me it looks like most of he problems could be resolved with a mattock, knocking down the few high spots (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mattock) We live about 20 miles east of Raleigh, and have been experiencing 100 degree days with very little rain, but extremely high humidity. So, my recommendation would be you do nothing until some time in October. Then spending a couple days in the yard. On the first day cut and reshape the right side of the yard. Use the resulting dirt to fill in the area of the sidewalk. Next day walk around the yard knocking down the high spots with the mattock. The above is exactly what I have done in my yard and it resolved my problem. The swale does not have to be deep, a 6 to 8" depression in the 3 to 4' wide and about 5 to 7 ' long. If you use what you remove to create a berm on the edge of the swale, it does not have to be dug out that deep. If there is good grass in the area first remove the grass dig down to the depth you want and replace the grass. It has to be wide enough that it does not create a problem for your current or future mowers...See Morejc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)jc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojc_7a_MiddleTN
5 years ago
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