Easy fix for bathrooms with no hooks
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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Mold in the bathroom, how much to fix/replace?
Comments (7)Definitely fix ASAP, it will get worse. We just remodeled our bathroom on a smallish budget. If we had been able to DIY to some extent, it would have definitely been a budget remodel. Labor is expensive! You should be able to do most of the demo. But have an expert evaluate what's underneath and fix as needed, a good foundation is important. If you don't mind a tub surround, those will save money especially since the install is easy. We just put in a really nice one by Sterling and love it. I think the tub and surround were maybe in the $450-500 range? You can find a vanity and counter with sink at a reasonable price at a big box store. Reuse centers may be helpful too. There are also very imespensive toilets and fixtures available that still look nice. You would probably need someone to drywall and install the tub and plumbing rough in, but you could probably learn how to put a floor down, hook up the plumbing fixtures, and finishing touches. I'm not one for loans usually, but if you can get a small (meaning just enough for the absolutely needed costs) to do this, it may be worth it to fix this while it's not out of control. While you are figuring this out, you could also consider starting to accumulate some of the smaller items you will need, such as faucets (if replacing), lights (if replacing), vanity, etc so you don't have to come up with all the money at once....See Morebathroom fiasco or easy fix?
Comments (1)When they finished I asked my builder about sealing the grout and he told me to caulk the corner seams but sealing it wasn't necessary. That didn't seem right, but "he knows better than I do" I agree with your builder. I don't care to seal the grout, as well. See the link below. At the very least, I would want to contact the builder and ask him SPECIFICALLY what products he used, both in flattening out the shower walls, and the thinset used to install the tiles. I'd also like to know if there was any kind of vapor barrier behind the cement board. (He DID use cement board, right?) Here is a link that might be useful: Building a Home Forum Tile FAQ...See MoreNeed easy ideas for guest bathroom
Comments (9)Well if you don't want to move any fixtures, there's not a lot you can do to fix the layout. The suggestions of two bathrooms is good, but would require quite a bit of plumbing work and cost. Are you looking for more of a basic remodel without major changes? In that case, first replace the pedestal sink with a full vanity. That pedestal sink just looks lost in such a big space. That space between the toilet and bathtub could be filled with a large towel warmer. Alternatively, you can put an open shelving unit there to help fill the space. With the walls being just huge expanses of drywall, use some sort of wainscoting (or tile to wainscot height) to help break it up. Are you considering replacing the tub? With that much floor space, you could put in a much bigger unit and do so with fairly minor plumbing work (unless it's concrete floor). If you are looking to create more privacy for the toilet without moving it, you would want to remove and close off the door to the bedroom. Shift the hall door over closer to the sink side. That will give you more room to close off the toilet with walls. Otherwise a basic, temporary fix would be to use a screen/room divider on one side of the toilet, assuming you can get the aesthetics to work with how you decorate the rest of the bathroom....See MoreTemporary fix for leaking, cracked bathroom tile floor
Comments (16)Because it seemed important to know how bad the situation is, I removed the tiles and mudboard in the problem area. Underneath is just the sheathing. You can see that most of the wood is still in tact, but it's definitely rotted in the corner by the tub. That spot is still very wet, smells earthy, and I can dig into it with my finger. In a 4" x 4" area, I could make a little 1/2 inch hole easily. Now I'm wondering if the best solution might be to: 1) wait for wood sheathing to dry; 2) put down some kind of underlayer or mortar, and then 3) just put on some of that Flex Seal - as a temporary solution. Or, should I put down some kind of PVC board, or something like that over the sheathing - and then put mortar on that - just in case there's reason to worry about the sheathing in that corner giving in. and the PVC board would keep us from falling through the ceiling (until we do the full renovation)! Thanks everyone for your help!...See More- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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