Okay, maybe I'm the odd one, but this won't be the first limb I've climbed out on. After reading this thread I had to go open and close all my new cabinets just to see if this was happening in my kitchen. Low and behold there are 2 spots where doors can possibly hit something, but I'd only previously noticed ONE of them. Here's my idea: Knobs (or handles) will make this LESS of a problem. My old cabinets were w/o hardware and had frames (like ajsmomma's photo). One simply grabbed the edge and pulled. There was nothing to hang on to and the door was "flung" open. Consequently it sometimes went as far as it could. Now I grab a knob and HOLD ON TO IT. Often one tends to open the door with one hand, keeping that hand on the knob, reach in with the other hand, retrieve the desired object, then close the door (without letting go). In order to bang the door into the next cabinet I would have to bang my hand (which is covering the knob). Not likely to happen! Knobs might even help with those cabinets next to the hood. Although switching the doors is a good idea too. Maybe try using the knobs first?

Follow up (I'm OP): GC contacted the lead guy (owner?) of glass co., and within days they were at my house to discuss. They said the door's vertical sweep (which closes to the fixed glass 1/2 panel - see pic) could be replaced with a thinner one. And some glass cos. don't even put a sweep there. They said to totally disregard everything the receptionist said - she had no business diagnosing the problem. The thinner sweep would only be the top half of the door. But we're thinking your eye won't notice that the bottom half has a thicker sweep because there's a 1/2 wall, tiled, there. Get this: The day they showed up the door worked again (pivoted both in and out of the shower)! It was colder - wildly guessing the walls are expanding in heat, or maybe its just a stiff sweep problem (they didn't opine as to cause). Glass co. owner gave me his text and direct dial/vm, and said he'll install a thinner sweep whenever - i.e., if I want, I can wait until its hot again. The only thing I find annoying is that, well, I paid about $3,900 with tax for the glass (HCOL area), and seems I should have a door that fits with the usual sweep. And I'm concerned that if we go with the thinner sweep, maybe the walls will contract when it cold again. But I guess I would rather be done with this and, if it does leak in the winter, deal with that problem then. My 1 year warranty is up Dec. 2017.

What are you concerned about - the remedial work needed to fix the issue or compensation done to your neighbor's apartment. I live in a high-rise condo and there was somewhat of the same situation. A bathroom was being remodeled and the plumber installing the fixtures in the shower removed a valve and broke a pipe. There was a tremendous amount of damage since this was a ninth floor unit and almost all the apartments in the same stack below suffered significant damage such that the owners had to move out of their units for several months while their apartments were fixed. The impacted homeowners put in claims to their insurance companies and then the insurance companies dealt with liability. My friend lives in one of the units and so through him I know that the building was sued for having old pipes; the plumber was sued and the homeowner was sued. In the end the plumber's insurance company was the one that actually was on the hook because he had done the work and in some kind of way caused the pipe to burst. First thing you should do is contact your insurance company if there is significant damage to your neighbor because of the water intrusion. If there isn't you would probably not want to make a claim since it would appear on your record and impact future premium rates. Then as others have posted, it comes down to negotiation and who has clout. It would appear that some degree of responsibility is shared by all - the plumber knew that pipes running against studs need to be shielded so he should have put in larger enough plates to full protect since he knew the purpose of the plates and could see that the size of the plates wasn't sufficient. The installer couldn't see the studs and would have assumed the pipes were sufficiently protected - perhaps someone can offer assistance regarding whether a prudent glass installer should have made this assumption without further investigation. And since you are acting as the GC in effect, you would also have some degree of responsibility. One of the reasons a GC earns their money is because they (and their insurance) take full responsibility for this kind of issue. It wouldn't matter who or what caused the damage - the GC would have the subs remedy it - whether he paid for it or he and the subs each ate a certain portion would be irrelevant to the homeowner.

No fridge should be installed against a wall for this reason, unless there is a great deal of filler between the fridge and the wall. You are not going to find a different french door model that will defy the laws of geometry. Your model is a french door style. You might be able to find a fridge that is a single-door style instead, and the single door has the hinge on the opposite side from the wall. No idea if it will fit in your space, that is for you to research.