Wow, you are patient! IÂve nursed along perennials that way but not bulbs! How big would you say is blooming size? If I do mail order I wonÂt have a choice, but if I see them in the store I might. I think I saw them somewhere, just have to remember where. Obviously I will pick the biggest I can, but what size would give me bloom this year? If the ones available are all too small I might pass for this year. IÂm already trying callas this year for the first time, and those most likely will have to be in pots. From what I can tell the foliage for those is pretty so if they donÂt bloom it will be ok. Not sure about Lycoris, though: though I see them growing in the Chicago Botanic Garden every year, I have never noticed the leaves. (I tend to do too many pots and create too much work for myself; not sure I should be adding to it.) I think I successfully saved over my tuberous begonias for the first time last fall. I had always brought them in before but they always died in a flash. This year I withheld watering after they drooped and I think they made it. Have to check on them in the basement see if they are sprouting.

I have several varieties planted in the ground, Meyer, Moro, Naval, Calamondin, Owari Satsuma, Mineola and Ponderosa. Most have been in the ground 7 plus years. I have never covered them with anything other than some pine straw at the bases. Lowest temps one year were lower teens. 2 of the Moros were first year in the ground and the new growth at the top froze and died off. Both have since came back. Mine are all planted on the northeast side of the house...not the south but thats the way my yard is so there wasn't any other choice. I am thinking about a cold frame on a couple this year just to see if I can keep the fruit on longer for more ripeness. Rob

Maryann, I've seen Lusterleaf get some bad damage at the US Arboretum one year (zone 7a/b). I haven't been back to the holly grove to check on it. I would venture that in zone 6b it's real iffy. However... if you like the large-leafed hollies, there are a number of holly hybrids you can choose from! Try any of the Koehneanas (latifolia x aquifolium hybrid) -- with cultivar names such as Wirt L. Winn, Jade, Agena, etc. Also, Forest Farm has a cornuta x latifolia hybrid that I purchased last Fall (leaves about 3-5 inches). If you're in the DC area, visit the holly grove at the US Arboretum. So check them out!

Evergreens never go completely dormant in winter - not like herbaceous or deciduous plants - and they DO continue to photosynthesize. That's why you cannot store tender BLE's or overwinter baby conifers in a dark environment like you would with something that goes fully dormant. And even protecting from sunburn (isn't it really dessication or wind burn that's being prevented?) doesn't mean they don't take in sunlight - it is only to protect the plant from excessive drying, which can affect proper photosynthesis. Evergreens are actually in a period of quiescence or rest - not dormant but also not in active growth. Although I have not studied the morphology of bulbs to the same degree, I would assume the bulbs are similar. The roots remain active and the bulbs store all the energy gathered during the active growing period and will push out new growth when the temperatures necessary for that to happen are present. How are you coming with your hort classes?? They should start answering a lot of these questions for you............ :-))