rusty, There are several different type of rollers that have been used on sectional ohverhead doors. Some are steel shafts with a nylon roller. These have no bearings in them. They rely on the nylon to act as a bearing. These are very cheap rollers with a short life. The low end steel rollers are designed for lightweight residential-duty doors. They have seven ball bearings in them but the balls don't ride on hardened surfaces. They last about six years and then start falling apart. The commercial grade of 2" roller have more balls that are in hardened races. These last four or five times longer than the seven ball type. Anything will ball bearings needs lubrication. We used 10W30 or even ATF. Any light viscosity oil is fine. Rollers that do not roll with develop flat spots on them and then never roll no matter what you do to them. If your door won't stay in the full open position, then it needs a spring adjustment carried out by a Pro who knows how to adjust springs safely and to make adjustments to the cable lengths so as to take advantage of the Hi-lift portion on the cable drums. Trust me. There's a lot more to a properly adjusted door than what most people realize or even know. I have come across all kinds of botched jobs by guys who shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a door. I used to put electric operators on doors like you have that lack headroom above the door. There are ways to make it happen if you are on top of your game.

I am repurposing a lower 36" cabinet that I had a shelf taken out of, and a vertical divider wall placed into it thereby making it a set of singular cabinets inside. It still has two smaller drawers at the top. I didn't have the divider wall go all the way to the drawers (obviously) as the outlet I want to use is on the opposite side of the divider wall of the side I want to put the mixer lift on (of course). I plan on laying the cord over the divider wall into the other cabinet compartment to plug it in. My concern here is the two drawers on top. I own a 28 lb KA mixer (empty), although it's 17 years old it's massive, the 6qt pro series. and the head does not tilt back (which I hate but that's a story for another day). I think I'm going with the RAS soft close heavy duty but I am concerned about what type of shelf to have made. I think a butcher block is what I'm going to have to do. I grew up with a mixer lift and my Mom always had granite/quartz blocks to match but I think here it'll be too heavy. Anyone have success with butcher blocks? Under the drawer mounting with a monster KA mixer they don't move? TIA.

Thanks for the detailed write-up. My wife and I have a 10 y.o. Thermador range, and recently looked at their 36" rangetop for our kitchen renovation. The star-shaped burners were a big selling point to me. Ultimately, we ruled it out because the salesman said it doesn't have an option for an integrated grill. I just looked at the Thermador website though, and it sounds like they'll be offering a grill soon. Other than that, I don't like the Extra-Low burners for simmering (although we can can a great simmer from the normal burners on our range). The biggest problem we're having is deciding whether to replace our 25 y.o refrigerator. Every model I've looked at seems to have complaints about noise. As you said, it seems to be the luck of the draw. It also seems to me that, in order to comply with energy efficiency standards, manufacturers end up making noisier products as well.

Checked the Hafele (which is also the KV) it will fit into a 15" cabinet and also appears to fit your mixer.I wasn't able to get hold of CAD files for it. If I were doing the job I'd be in touch with KV rep, have found them very helpful in the past (but you may be left with customer support and I don't know how that will go) I also checked several cabinet mfg catalogs. FWIW Those that use the Hafele list minimum cabinet size of 15". FWIW I did get the CAD of the RAS -none will fit the cabinet with your mixer. Check the weight of your mixer first though. These don't hold as much as the RAS -the release mechanism is not as nice (PIA) and no soft close available AFAIK. As to the trash- RAS lists the minimum opening for the model you got as 15-1/2" for face frame. I always put in the 5349 series. The double 50 qt for that lists minimum opening of 15". You may also be able to just swap out the pails for others.