How many roses have spider mites? A few years ago I called Chamblees to ask what they do, and I spoke with Nay.She said to spray the tops and bottoms of every single leaf on the affected rose, and to do it three days in a row, then to use an insecticide that would work. I think I used Kelthane. The three days you get them off, and you remove the eggs or whatever. After that you spray them once. I only had it on one or two roses, but I held up each section of the canes, and sprayed the bottom parts of the leaves. It worked. Now I have been using Wilt Pruf for a long time, and have not noticed any spider mites. Right now we have had so much rain, that they may not be out until it is dry. When I use the Wilt Pruf, I put 3/4 cup in a 3 gallon sprayer. I hope this helps. Sammy

Mites damage orchids quickly and quietlyoften their presence is not noticed until significant damage has occurred. Mites are visible, but their presence is easily determined by rubbing a white cloth over the area that is damaged. If mites or their eggs are present, a brownish residue will be left on the leaf. This will come off and be visible on the towel. Some spin light webs which are visible on the plant or at the base of the plant. A very good natural remedy is an oil/soap treatment. Dr. Martin Motes recommends using a light oil--such as vegetable oil. Olive oil is very heavy and could potentially damage plants. Using 2 TBS oil/gallon is sufficient, you can add a teaspoon of baking soda for a bit of antifungal. Remember to keep shaking the solution in the container to keep the oil mixed with the water. Spray thoroughly on all sides of the leaves. FOLLOW UP with a soap solution about 7 days later. Using 2 tsp/gallon of Joy or Dawn (dog shampoo is great too) not only does a number on the pests, it helps clean off the oil treatment. I actually follow up with a third treatment in another week with the same soap solution. The soap/oil mixture remedy has been shared in the past, but the University of Florida recently discounted it as the two agents act in direct opposition of each other and essentially decrease the effectiveness of the effort. Just like the TV ads say, the dishsoap is designed to cut grease (oil) in its tracks! :) AOS recommends Malathion, or Volk Oil/Sunspray for scale. Also Knox Out 2 FM or Orthene Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray. Mites are nasty buggers to get control over. If the infestation is confined to one plant, isolate it to prevent spreading--watch for that carefully. Be careful to follow the label on preparations TO THE LETTER to avoid damage to plants. One tip for success is to make sure you do TWO treatments of your selected poison about 7-10 days apart in order to catch newly hatched pests. Submitted by Rhonda Heide

I had them once on a ever green and before I notice a 2 ft area was dead. I asked a nursery man about it and he said you can't see spider mites. He said to put a white sheet of paper under the area and shake the plant, then rub your fingers across the paper. If there are blood smears they are spider mites.

Do not use soapy water - I know it is often recommended, but it dissolves wax on the leaves...the only soap to be used on plants should be true vegetable-based Castile soap (olive oil based). I do not have experience with neem oil, so can't comment. Lots of marks appear to be oedema (the hard, black bumps), even the bigger dry-looking patches. That happens when plant cant transpire all the water received. Other is possibility of powdery mildew, encouraged by high humidity. What kind of soil/mix is it potted in? Where is this plant kept? How much sunlight is it receiving? Even if you say it dropped lots of leaves, it looks quite etiolated - spaces between internodes are too big. That suggest not enough light. I would also suggest potting plants higher in the pot - the soil level should be higher. That will also help with soil drying up faster and general air circulation that is also important for succulents.