Hi Cat-Mom, Yup, we're also renoing Living Room and Master Bedroom at the same time- you? :>) I just faux-painted our entry stair railing to make do until we add on to our front entry. So many balls in the air, hard to juggle it all at one time. kgwlisa, That's what I had thought of so far, basement ceiling has been ripped down, so all the plumbing is fully exposed, and present shower and bath have leaking problems, so things pretty well have to be redone anyways. I was even contemplating 'borrowing' more out of the common wall when we build it, by building in storage behind mirror and perhaps a deeper vanity. I'm assuming this is a fairly basic/common plan, and hopefully others have paved the path... Rae

Good point about cleaning. Especially under the window, it will be tough to get in there if the tub is set against the wall. The all glass shower has 1/2 door, 1/2 fixed glass. I know, we are moving a TON of plumbing, but because of one of the doors that can't be moved a larger shower where it is really is not an option. We are over the garage, so it (hopefully) won't be SO bad! One thing that I just realized is that I can make the (closet) door adjacent to the potty 2'0" instead of 2'4" and pick up a few inches there. It may eliminate the need for the funky angled wall. My contractor says 2'0" is big enough. Also in the all glass pic, the hand towels will hang above the countertop. I have a preference for the "windowed" design because there is a defined door and a place for the shower controls. But I also like the open look of the glass...decisions decisions!!! Does anyone have a photo of a tub with a narrow surround - like only 2-3 inches?

First let us examine the point where the drain enters the basement. You have a 4" CI entering with a cleanout on the end of the Wye. That cleanout is defined as the "house Main Cleanout" and it defines the point of demarcation between the "House Sewer" (line from the municipal main or septic tank to the structure) and the "House Main Drain" (The main drain upstream from that cleanout). The IRC requires all structures to have one "Main Vent" which must run undiminished in size from the house main drain through the roof; therefore if any line upstream of the main cleanout is increased to 4" the main vent must also be increased to 4". First we must compute the DFU (drainage fixture unit) load for the existing fixtures in this structure. 1st Full Bath Group.. 6DFU 2nd Full Bath Group. 6 DFU Kitchen Group. 2DFU Laundry Standpipe.. 2DFU Total 16DFU The proposed expansion is a full bath group in the basement, which will be served by a sewage ejector pump. The IRC requires that we assign a DFU value of 1.5DFUs for each GPM of the sewage ejector output. The IRC further requires a Sewage Ejector Pump to have a minimum of 14.2GPM therefore the minimum DFU load for an ejector pump system is 1.5DFU x 14.2GPM = 21.3DFUs. Adding the sewage ejector pump rating to the existing load we get 21.3DFU + 16DFU = 37.3DFUs. The maximum allowable load on a 3" house main drain is 30DFUs therefore the sewage ejector may not be connected to the existing 3" house main drain. If you were to increase the size of the house main drain to 4" you would also be required to increase the size of the house Main Vent to 4". The solution for the sewage ejector: A sewage ejector pump discharge line is required to be connected to a horizontal line by means of a Wye with the side opening of the Wye on the top of the pipe. A 4" house main drain or sewer is rated for a maximum of 180DFUs The solution for the sewage ejector would be to go back to the 4" house main cleanout. Remove the cleanout plug and install a second WYE extending outwards. Install the cleanout plug on the end of the second Wye, which would now retain the cleanout function at this point. The side opening of the Wye should be positioned on the top of the pipe and the sewage ejector discharge line may then be connected to that Wye side opening. You will be required to install two 1-1/2" vents to the basement. One vent would be used to vent the fixtures and this vent may be tied into the existing house vents once it reaches an elevation at least 6" above the flood level rim of the highest fixture served by the vent you are connecting to. The sewage ejector vessel is required to have a separate dedicated 1-1/2" vent through the roof. In reference to your question about venting the second water closet, under the IRC a water closet is required to have a minimum of a 3" discharge line. A 3" line is permitted to run up to 12 without any additional venting however there is an exception to the rule. If a water closet is the only fixture served by that line it may run an indefinite length without additional venting.

If you want any kind of constructive help, post a layout diagram with measurements and maybe some photos of the spaces.