Help please! Are these refinished wood floors acceptable?
JR T
5 years ago
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JR T
5 years agomissenigma
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Unhappy with my water-based-polyurethane refinished wood floors
Comments (10)I think most of the "warmer" tone you get with oil-based poly comes from the absorption of the poly directly into the wood on the first coat; i.e., it has a slight "staining" effect (this is based on my own observations when we do site-finished floors on our projects). Since your wood has already been sealed with water-base poly, putting oil-based poly on top of it (even assuming it would adhere properly) probably wouldn't have much of a "warming" effect. My recommendation would be to add some water-based stain to the water-based poly you're already using and try applying a coat or two of that to get the "warmer" tone you're looking for....See MoreRefinishing wood floors and trying to best match different woods
Comments (33)So after re reading your recommendations. It sounds like even if I moved to duraseal stain instead of Minwax, I could still have an issue with not just the Bona hd but any Bona poly waterbase or really any waterbase poly?? Do u recommend if I really want the waterbase then I Shd stick with either water pop and then one stain coat and I can use any Bona waterbase unless I use Minwax stain then I need to make sure to use Bona one or Bona mega or Bona domo? Do u prefer the pallmann pall-x to Bona? Also is it okay to do a dye then stain and then waterbase poly? Sounds like another option is to find an oil poly like duraseal matte that perhaps won’t make the ebony like amber once the oil is applied? When u use the oil do u also do three coats? Do u wait 72 hours between oil base Poly applications? Do u think a poly oil would be as durable as Bona hd or Bona one or mega? I don’t really know what this Bona domo does. My floor guy picked it up to try. And the Nordic seal which a bigger problem. I also have a duraseal waterbase poly to try. We feel like it’s a perfect storm and so hard to finger point the issue. Is it the Minwax, is it the drying time not being long enough, is it not sanding to 100, is it the Brazilian cherry? I Shd have just pulled it up but I have so much of it. The oak upstairs looks fabulous. Sorry for the long windedness you have just been so helpful. 🙏🏻...See MoreIs this an acceptable end result for hardwood refinishing?
Comments (4)It seems foolish to try to spot repair at the hearth but the floor in front of the hearth appears to have more grain. An extra coat only on the grainy part would make it match better but risks having a slightly different sheen. I'm not sure it's worth the risk. At the nosing, the carpet needs attention but it will always be ugly. The carpet nap will compress in the middle where everyone steps but be higher on either end....See MoreRefinishing floor - is this acceptable?
Comments (6)The NWFA specifies a floor be inspected from a standing position, using normal lighting and viewing angles. You can read here - Page 71 https://www.oldewoodltd.com/uploads/nwfa-sand-finish-wood-floors-2016.pdf So it's not from 18" or 30". The number I've seen quoted is 50", which is consistent with "standing position". Wood floor is refinished by humans so an expectation of perfection is illogical. What's logical and reasonable is to have the floor look acceptable from a standing position. My standard is to shoot for 100% perfect and accept 95% or so. This can be hard to quantify exactly, but suffice to say that I factor in how good the floor is overall, the severity and location of flaws, and the likelihood of being able to repeat the finishing of a floor that might be deemed less than perfect, and have it turn out better. It's almost certain there will be flaws (I've never seen a perfect floor). The aim is to achieve an acceptable result, with the knowledge that the floor isn't a priceless antique, and that it will be used, dented, dinged, scratched and worn over time. Since your finish isn't applied yet, I'd probably ask the finishers to hand sand the little orbital sander scratches on the nosing and restain. It would be foolish to try to address the faint buffer scratches as the result would probably end up worse, making it necessary to do a third time. Short answer: Take standard zoom pictures from a height of 50" and evaluate....See MoreJR T
5 years agomissenigma
5 years agoJR T
5 years agoJR T
5 years agoJR T
5 years agoJR T
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5 years agoJR T
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5 years agoL&L PAINTING AND REMODELING
5 years agoG & S Floor Service
5 years agoHALLETT & Co.
5 years agoJR T
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5 years agoJohnson Flooring Co Inc
5 years agoJR T
5 years agoJohnson Flooring Co Inc
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5 years ago
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