most older homes do not have solid enough floors for tile without additional support.

There will always be something you don't anticipate, that's the nature of the beast. Have you had a chance to go to a current job your contractor is working on and see how they do business? This will give you a sense of the crew, work ethic and how respectful they are of a client's property. I was able to go to 2 jobs my contractor was working on and it helped me make my decision. You will be able to see things that you won't want to happen at your job site and then you can put that into the contract. Are you gong to be living on site? How extensive is the work being done? Do you have children? Will you or someone else be on the site during the day or just the contractor? We are living on site (which is no picnic - don't even get me started about the dust...). The crew built me a temporary wall between the work area and where we are living. It has been great - In addition to insulating the wall they also stapled plastic sheeting to keep out dust and debris. You would never know there is construction on the other side of the wall if you didn't hear all the activity. The only problem with dust and mess is in the basement below the construction area (which is where my temporary kitchen is located). They have taken up the sub-floor and gravity being gravity, things come down from above. Now that they are done with the electrical and pipes in the area below the construction we have stapled plastic sheeting to the joists and this has greatly reduced the amount of debris falling into the basement. So ask about what they are planning to do to reduce the impact on your family and the construction mess going into the non-construction areas of your home. Do you have a personal umbrella policy to protect you if someone gets hurt and you are sued? I had 3 bids for my project. I researched and made sure that each company was properly licensed and registered in my state and local jurisdiction to do the work I was going to hire them to do. I also checked to see if the companies had any complaints with the BBB, the state or the county. I also checked if the company and/or the principals were or had ever been sued, declared bankruptcy, had any criminal charges, DWI's, not been paying alimony or child support. Regarding some of the items on your list: The guys doing my renovation use a radio and I like it (we seem to have the same taste in music... there is nothing more entertaining than hearing them sing while they work... I think it helps the productivity of the crew, so even if they listened to something I didn't care for, I wouldn't have a problem). If having a radio playing is going to bother you there is no way you are going to survive a renovation/remodel. My contractor included a porta-john in the contract. My crew has been here every day - except for one day when we had bad weather and the schools were closed (the foreman called and apologized that they would not be able to make it b/c the roads were impassable). We have a "dump trailer" parked in our driveway that they fill and then take to the dump and return. This reduces piles of debris laying around. They clean up as much as they can. Please remember that renovation/construction is not a clean process. Don't expect them to neatly stack their supplies and store lumber in ascending or descending order of size.... If my crew decided not to wear shirts, I could sell tickets and recoup what I am paying on this renovation in no time...... ;). Below are things I would add to the list (I haven't looked at the other threads, so if I am covering old ground.....): Who will be in charge of the crew - get their cell phone number. There could be an emergency in the evening or the weekend and you will want to be able to get hold of someone. How many job sites will this person be running at the time of your renovation? How do they expect to get paid? I pay my contractor in 1/12's depending on targets met outlined in the contract (i.e. framing completed, drywall up, etc.). Ask them (in order to get a better estimate of the actual cost of the job) if they need to poke a few holes in walls, look under floors, go in the attic, look at old plans of the house. I did not think of doing this and though it would have helped with some of the unexpected items, most of them were not known until we opened ceilings, floors and walls. Are they insured/bonded? How much coverage do they carry? Will you have the same crew every day or will new guys be cycling in and out (I have the same crew every day with additional as needed)? Does your contractor conduct background checks and drug testing on his crew? What about the subs? Will subs be allowed on the property WITHOUT supervision by the contractor or his crew? How will change orders/change of scope be handled? When there are questions/issues and more than one solution have them check with you before going forward (what they think would work best might not work for you).. You don't want them to say, "well that's what I thought you would want...." How will they get in and out if you are not home (I have a lock box - provided by the contractor - on one of the doors with a key in it - the lock was provided by the contractor (for a new door) and he will replace the lock when he is done)? How do they feel about you providing your own fixtures, etc. (my contractor has no problem with me doing this as long as I get things here when he needs them and I make sure to order what he needs (I check with him before ordering))? I am sure I have missed some things. Good luck!

There are several good books on Concrete Countertops. I purchase one and was going to do them but quickly changed my mind due to the weight. But I still have the books. Try Amazon for further info. I would try engine degreaser that said it can be use also on concrete driveways to degrease it! It is an aerosol spray can. You wet the concrete and then spray it on; use a brush to work it in and wait ten minutes and rinse - use a buck and a sponge. It works great on my garage floor. Not sure about any hazardous outputs that it might leave behind however; since it a kitchen area! But it suppose to be safe in terms of biodegrable. Call the manufacturer before using it - get a MSDS too!

Cost per square foot for remodeling versus building new is always going to be skewed. Reason? To remodel, the existing structure must be disassembled to a point to rebuild. Double labor. New construction is simply building to finish. Single labor. The tipping factor where remodeling is more expensive than rebuilding varies tremendously. If the building requires plumbing/electrical/HVAC reworking plus structural changes, chances are building new will be less expensive. And may be faster. Minor plumbing/electrical/HVAC/structural is always less expensive. In your case, the tipping factor is how much you intend to do. Straightening walls/floors can be a major overhaul, especially when a complete roof is in the plan. Adding bigger windows is a major remodel, and is more expensive than simply replacing windows. Reason? Sheet rock has to be removed, exterior siding has to be removed past the dimensions of the new windows to allow proper framing of the new openings. New window costs, labor to tear out, and labor/materials to replace sheet rock/siding. If the siding cannot be reused(after being removed) new siding has to be bought/installed/primed/painted. Replacing four windows can easily require residing that entire side of the house. Leveling floors will require tearing out the old, repairing/replacing the joists. Same with the walls. Roof may need complete rebuilt to be right. Rip off all the old roofing/sheathing/rafters and rebuild from the top plate of the walls. Could all that be done without all that tearout? Not if it is done right.`