Looking for recommendations on sliding frameless clear glass doors to enclose an alcove bath tub in a bathroom shared by two children. My first questions is, are these doors appropriate in a child's bathroom? Assuming we use them, there are many options and a wide price range. Glass thickness choices are 1/4" and 3/8". Slide options include nylon rollers, ball bearings, and stainless steel top mounted rollers (Kinetik). Some have a silicone track (instead of metal) along the top edge of the tub. Currently we're looking at a set made by MAAX and sold under the Advanta brand by Costco for $700. The glass is 10 mm (3/8"), they slide on ball bearings, and the track along the tub is metal. Any recommendations would be appreciated. TIA Here is a link that might be useful: Advanta

My mom has glass doors on her tub that open like shower doors not a sliding door, so there is nothing on the edge of the tub. Maybe that would work for you if you have the room. Her tub is also a three wall alcove. I have a Kohler Expanse which has a nice edge for sitting or putting your foot. It's a three wall alcove, too. It leaves lots of room to shower, but must be used with a curved shower rod. I prefer shower curtains over glass doors. Here is a link that might be useful: kohler expanse tub

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

@jewelisfabulous - ahh, so nice to have a window! I'd like to hang artwork, but I'd be a bit concerned it might fall and damage our new tub! @monicakm_gw - thank you taking the time to attach a photo. What a serene bath tub you have! You just gave me a great idea for the 3 walls that will be bare since we won't be tiling all the way up to the ceiling. A towel rack would look great on the back wall :) 1. Did you mean your tub is 19" in height (from the floor)? 2. If it's not too much trouble, I'd love to see what your faucet for the bath tub looks like!