Attempted Propagation of Sansevieria trifasciata in wet ziploc bags
mark4321_gw
5 years ago
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mark4321_gw
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Propagating Blueberries
Comments (6)Container: You can put as many cuttings into a gallon ziploc as you can put into a gallon ziploc. Maybe a dozen or so. Surround them with peat moss, maybe two or three good handfuls, and it should be slightly moist but not wet. Don't put in so much that you can't close the bag. Place in refrigeration. Use 1-year green cuttings, which are usually about 3/8 inch caliper, but may vary in size. 5-6 inches long is good, but the issue is not so much length as the number of buds on the cutting, which should be a minimum of 4. When you stick them in the ground, at least two buds should be above the surface. Needless the say, the buds must point upwards. Moisten the business end slightly so the Rootone will cling to it. When I plant the cuttings, outdoor temperatures are warming, so there is no need for a greenhouse. I assume that in zone 10, it's warm pretty much all the time. I don't think cuttings will root unless they have been previously calloused by this or some other method. Exposed buds should begin to open in 10 days or so; maybe sooner depending on ambient temperatures. Of course, the soil around the newly planted cuttings should be kept moist. Starting blueberry plants from seed is a bad idea. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreMy Granada Rejuvenation Experiment
Comments (17)I'm excited to see your success, Jenn! As I've previously written, it's probably going to take tweaking to work similarly in other climates and your imagination and creativity provide new thought and ideas I may not have thought of. The idea wasn't "mine" to begin with, but was shared by a gentleman in Australia on the Rose Hybridizers Association, further tweaked by Paul Barden and shared on his blog. Since nothing I'd previously been successful doing had worked in my new climate, I figured I had nothing to lose. I know you understand my excitement when it WORKED! It's been as exciting hearing from folks who have tried it and had it work for them, too. A further tweak, and one which could easily work well for anyone wishing to trade cuttings...I've begun treating cuttings I've sent, when the recipient has wished it, as if I was wrapping them to remain here, before sending them. I'll remove the foliage and soak them a few hours in water, then treat them with the Dip'n Grow and wrap them in the damp newspaper and mail them. I've let them know what date I treated them so once received, they can be held until the two week period is complete and then unwrapped. It's worked rather well in many instances so far. Something else to explore and experiment with if you're trading cuttings. This should have been a thought many years ago when a friend sent me cuttings of an Ipomea from New Orleans. Five days in the mail, wrapped in damp paper, those things had five inch roots and grew like a house-a-fire when planted. If those could form roots in those conditions, why couldn't other types of plants? If they're going to spend three to five days in the mail, held in the same conditions (temperature, of course, isn't as easily controlled, but the dark and damp sure are), why not include that in the wrapped time to keep them fresher? It's very similar to the way bud wood is stored from one season to the next for production. I'd wondered why there hadn't been complaints about them rooting instead of holding until budded, then it dawned on me. We are finding temperatures in the sixties range optimum for root formation. Commercial sources hold the bud wood at closer to freezing, so it stores like produce in a refrigerator, much like what has been reported from people who have tried holding the wraps in the vegetable crisper. Too cold, and it behaves like produce. Too warm, and they're stimulated into bud development and leaf growth at the expense of callus and root formation. The range between 60 and approximately 69 degrees has been shown optimum to encourage callus and roots to form while keeping the cuttings fresh without pushing leaf development for the two week period. Significantly shorter periods are premature because the callus is often not formed or reduced compared to the results after two weeks. Until the Christmas Eve batch, I'd experienced weakening of the cuttings by holding them longer. I thought that batch apparently wasn't as 'dormant' as previous batches were due to the weather we'd had prior to their being prepared and wrapped. I wasn't satisfied with their development after two weeks, so I held them an additional week to see what would happen. That extra week really made a difference, where it had been disadvantageous before. That batch callused and began forming roots to an amazing degree in those additional seven days. Evidently, temperatures were more conducive in the second two of the three, because they had caught up with the New Year's Eve batch. Or, the weather the second batch endured the week between Christmas Eve and New Years better prepared the wood for the treatment. The only two variables which changed between the two batches were what the second batch was exposed to out in the garden, and the temperature in the drawer the third week the first batch experienced. Since both batches were pretty equally developed, I have to conclude it was the temperature inside the drawer the final week both experienced sitting there as nothing else varied between them. I don't know if I would have removed all the bark from the woodier cuttings, Jenn. I'm sorry I didn't think that was what you meant before you did it. I would have only exposed more cambium below where the plant would be eventually planted, but who knows? This is another "tweak" which may prove beneficial. These have most of the circulatory system exposed to the conditions which foster differentiation, callus and root formation. Theoretically, they COULD form roots anywhere along their length. You might find you need to plant the whole cane under the soil and allow new growth to emerge as you would from a bulb or tuber. As long as the growth buds weren't destroyed or too badly damaged, anything is possible! Kim...See MoreTrouble propagating String of Pearls
Comments (10)Okay, question for all yall pro succulent growers, from a new succulent enthusiast: My boyfriend's mother gave me about 5 short strands of string of pearls, which she already rooted and potted for me. Now, I fully NEED more strands. I noticed that, every strand has more than one branch off the bottom, but on some of the strands, several of the "pearls" or "beads" have fallen off, likely due to me putting them outside one day when it was sorta windy, and that particular strand likely beat against the piece of staircase banister/handrail I had them sit ting on. My question for yall is this..... will the lost pearls or beads end up growing back? I noticed plenty of NEW growth, but I would seriously LOVE to see my "strings" full of pearls from soil to tip.... is this even possible? Or are they lost forever? Please either hit me up on messenger, or email. Your efforts will be most graciously appreciated! Thanks! Leann Doke From the high dessert of Mohave, in the valley of Indian Wells. Ridgecrest, California!...See MoreLeaf Propagation
Comments (20)Drakens, if you look over at the gallery, at the New S.t. "Laurentii" post you will see a plant torn apart. There is one picture of four leaves on the same run. This is how they grow and why it looks like two plants up top. These plants reproduce by 'runners'. One of the big deals about leaf prop versus offsets (or pups) is that markings and variagation doesn't come true from a leaf prop. In my plant 'tool' bucket, I keep a big ole serrated knife that I use for doing just this type of work. You can snap it apart with your hands, but then it seperates in an area of weakness that might not have been your choice place. Better to cut where you want it. You can pot it up into two pots right away, but let it dry a few days (so it can form a callous and protect from rot) before you water....See Morewoodnative
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