landscaping help? ‘52 Ranch
snobunyz24
5 years ago
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Kendrah
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Door color, porch stain, landscaping for little blue ranch
Comments (7)Dretutz, is that tree healthy? I can't make out the trunk very well. If not, its eventual demise/removal should be designed around. Thinking in big terms, the typical open front yard is regarded, and experienced as semipublic space. So is the typical front porch; privacy normally only beginning in the house. To create privacy and a feeling of comfort for the porch, my suggestion would be not just to interrupt the view to it but specifically to redefine the middle portion of the front yard as semiprivate space. Plantings of tree(s) and shrubs (pretty fencing?) toward the front of the lot and curving in along the driveway and other side boundary, taking the form of the suggested berms or not, will do that. The planted tree/shrub beds visible from the street would then be the property's semipublic area and the inside of these plantings and lawn semiprivate. The planting beds themselves don't have to be solid all the way across to perform their function and carefully positioned make a property more lovely to passersby, inviting their attention by framing the best views in and creating a little gentle mystery from other views so that people are intrigued. Gaining more privacy by becoming one of those houses people always look at as they drive by. :) Also, those on the porch will feel farther from the street, and vice versa, as the porch will no longer be semipublic space but private in the background to the middle and foregrounds between it and the street. If, in addition to any trees by the street, a small tree casts some light dappled shade in front of it (perhaps by the driveway in front of the path to the door?) sitting there will be almost as private as the back yard. The plantings, of course, create a view across the lawn from the porch that has little to do with the house opposite, and the inside edge is perfect for bulbs and other ephemerals. Berms can have the nice effect of making lawn they enclose feel like a little "pool." BTW, it might be nice to cast some dappled shade on the driveway/garage door with a similar tree to the left to help them settle into the background too. Thanks for the fun. Back to much more boring work....See MoreLandscape Help for a Ranch Home in Zone 6B
Comments (5)If you have a chance to move the Alaskan cedar, do it now. It's going to get very large and outgrow the space you have it in sooner rather than later. That's a specimen tree, should be planted where it can spread out and where you can view it and enjoy it's beauty. Google its mature size so you know what you will be looking at and how much space it needs, and find a nice spot for it. If you want something weepy and evergreen by the house, get a DWARF conifer. Catmint and iris perfect for by the house, would look good together. There are also many pretty blue perennial salvias that are pretty and bloom later in the season. Agastache, vervain, delphiniums, bellflower, you have room for a nice blue themed perennial garden . . . if you move the misplaced cedar. As for the bowling balls, check their mature size too. I wouldn't put something behind them, rather something around them, maybe some creeping phlox, I dunno, they are probably going to fill that space so widen the bed and the phlox could go in front....See MoreLandscape Design Help on 1970s Ranch
Comments (19)Zone 5b huh? Right now you have a nice wide termite-free gap between the ground and your rim joist. I know they aren't terribly common in most of Michigan though although you technically do have them in that zone, I don't know how much of an issue you have in town with them. Also, poured concrete foundations rely on outward drying to keep from pumping lots of moisture into your basement or crawl space. If you fill up the outside face with dirt all the way up, you may start having moisture drying inward too much. Your examples are not well landscaped. They have the same problems most people do: they put stuff too close to the house, or things that are far too big so they have to constantly trim them back. Like with your first example home, those look like Yews on the left. Those bushes are naturally much larger than that. They have them too close to the foundation. You can do a nice stone border for your shrub area without actually raising it if it is the enclosed look you are after....See MoreHelp with 50s ranch landscaping
Comments (14)@gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9) - unless you have some type of credentials declaring you the top expert in MCM architecture , stating your definition is simply your opinion. This home does not seem to fit your criteria. I can't imagine anyone stating that this historic home, built by Frank Lloyd Wright for Frieda and Henry J. Neils in 1950 in Minneapolis is not an MCM home. "The house was designed in Wright's post-World War II Usonian architecture, with the goal of "affordable, beautiful housing for a democratic America." The L-shaped, one-story home's floor plan features a dominant living room and social and spatial separation into "active" and "quiet" areas.[4] The short side of the L consists of the "active" portion, centering on a living room with 17-foot (5.2 m)-high vaulted ceiling and views of Cedar Lake; the "quiet" portion is the long side ending in a three-car carport and has bedrooms as well as a gallery leading to a hidden main entrance. Here is another home built by FLW - "The Malcolm Willey House was built in 1938 in Prospect Park, Minneapolis. It is a modest, single family home and is regarded by some as the prototype for Wright's notable Usonian style houses." Not everyone bought a home built in an Eichler planned community, but many people built homes during the post war era that utilized the organic architectural ideals that are the cornerstone of MCM design....See Moresnobunyz24
5 years agoJD
5 years agochiflipper
5 years agoYardvaark
5 years ago
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