Pump sizing all starts with how much water you need to turn over. Start with your gallons per minute first. How much do I need to make the water go over the edge? Depending on the type of finish on the weir wall will determine how much flow you need over the edge. Tile is the least resistant and stone will cause the most due to its uneveness. If you have tile done with a tight tolerance of 1/16" of an inch then you would only need 18.56 gallons per minute over the edge for 33 feet. Let's say the tile guy is not perfect and you have an 1/8" to overcome then you need 52.46 gallons per minute. Now you know what pump you need to push the water over the edge. Even a smaller variable speed pump will do this. It doesn't need to be 3 hp. Next figure out your pipe diameter. I do not plumb my pools to meet the minimum feet per second requirement by code. I go below that. I try for 4.5 feet per second for the suction side and 6.0 feet per second for the return side. This is how fast the water is moving through the pipe. For 53 gallons per minute my pipe diameter must be 2.5" for the suction and 2" for the return to meet that standard. Keep in mind that even with a smaller variable speed pump like the Pentair I1 that the max gallons per minute is 120. Since code requires that I have to have the proper pipe size that can handle the max gallons per minute of my pump than I have to have at least a 3" on the suction side and 2.5" on the return. You can lock out the pump so it does not exceed a certain rpm so you could go with a smaller pipe but people find a way around the lock out so it's better to just go with the bigger pipe. A 5 hp pump is way overkill for what you have. Huge waste of energy and a lot of noise. It's does look like he put on a 6" suction on the pump for the basin but what does he have on the rerun side? Sounds like the pump is restricted on the return. If you follow the rule of 4.5 feet per second on the suction and 6.0 feet per second on the return side then it doesn't matter what your head pressure is. It will fall in line. Hope this helps.

There is always auxiliary work associated with any project that is not handled by the specific trades you hired for the specific job. For instance, if you hired an electrician to run new wires for new under cabinet lighting, (and you should do that) they would create damage in your drywall too. Electricians do not do drywall repair any more than stone fabricators do. Coordinating the various trades to come in and do all of the needed work on a project is the responsibility of the General Contractor. A small job like this needs plumbing disconnects, demolition, cabinet leveling, overhang support engineered and installed, counter installation, drywall repair, painting, plumbing reconnects, and touch ups. That’s a minimum of 3 trades involved, and as many as 5, but it’s too small of a job for most GC’s to take on. That puts you in the role of the GC for hiring and scheduling all of those trades Individually, rather than a GC doing it all for you.

Thank you, Joseph. We love our old house. You are right, we aren't going to do a do-over because that would mean tearing down our 1937 house and the entire house is built like this with brick/plaster walls. This discussion helps me understand better why our house can "feel" cold on those rare days here that go below freezing. It is actually though a very comfortable house with radiant heat, original wood floors. We've been here almost 17 years and it is home. When we do put the backsplash in (most likely subway tiles now) what should the professional tiler do on the parts where we removed the plaster (seen in the picture) to help with the insulation? He knows our house and advised us on the old tile removal. We trust him. Thank you, Joseph.

Puleeese do not put in extensive areas of white subway tile! This seems to be a common avenue for homeowners and/or designers when they want to avoid making decisions about color. In my opinion, adding white tiles to your beautiful kitchen will turn it into a boring space. I really like your use of neutral wood flooring, white cabinets and the mix of stainless and black for appliances, and I believe now's the time to brighten up the space with some use of color. I'd install the backsplash material under the cabinets and go up to (what appears to be) the common height of the window, door and cabinets, including the space above the sink (background of shelves). Have you been to a big (good) tile store to see what's available? If you keep an open mind, you should be able to find several styles and colors that you like (and that pick up on a color from a decorative item on the over-the-sink shelves or that complement other colors in your home)--and you can usually bring home tile samples. If something you like is on the expensive side, consider using it in a limited way (a few above the stove/below the hood in a special design or a running line of them under the cabinets, etc.). Then go for a simple (no busy patterns), reasonably-priced (and coordinating) "field" tile for the remainder of the space--one that is simple enough so it doesn't clash with the items on the shelves, and keeping in mind the other black, white, stainless & wood colors in the room. As for the wall color . . . Once you have the backsplash installed, it should be easier to pick a wall color. Just bring home some store samples of paint colors to see how they look at different times of the day and at night. It usually takes me several trips--to cull out the ones that don't work and expand on the ones that do work--before I can make a decision. I suggest you use the same color (light or medium intensity that doesn't overtake your now-pretty backsplash!) above the backsplash & cabinets and on the ceiling, which will give the impression of a more spacious kitchen. Have fun and good luck!