Of course, bulbs are on sale now for 40% and I have 11.5 inches of
bella rosa
5 years ago
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a1an
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobella rosa
5 years agoRelated Discussions
have a 3 tier greenhouse with up to 480W of lighting for sale
Comments (1)This website is supported by advertising fees paid by commercial sellers and the forums we all enjoy are available to us at no cost as a result of that income to the website owners. In exchange, we who use the forum may not abuse that priveledge by advertising merchandise for sale, even when the seller is a private party offering used goods, and I am sure- meant no offence. You should take a good photo of your item and if you don't want to ship it, list it as a PU only auction on eBay, or, if you have an active one in your area, Craig's List....See MoreWWF Sale 40% off for Chad's
Comments (11)Mark, I've tried the cocopeat and perlite mix, and came up with a dozen moldy, rotting ideas why it's not that great of a mixture to use with bulbs... The cocopeat is too fine in particle size, and defeats the purpose of adding the perlite. In order for an amendment to work, it must have the same size pieces as every other ingredient in the soil mixture. While it's true that coco products take longer to decompose than some others, the size of particles is crucial to whether or not a medium works. Particle pieces must be similar in order for aeration to remain, and for compaction to not take place. I wish you luck... be very mindful of your bulbs in the mix you're using, and check for retained moisture around the root ball....See MoreWhere to buy T8 48-inch bulbs with over 3000 lumens?
Comments (7)I've said this already to someone (maybe you?): if CRI was the only thing that mattered then we'd be growing tomatoes under a 40W incandescent bulb :) The amount of light is the most important thing. Lumens are the most widely used method of measuring light intensity, unfortunately not the best for plants. Even more unfortunately, just about every other method of measuring light intensity is so vaguely defined or so widely abused that it isn't of much use to you. So chasing lumens is a pretty good start, but note that some lamps with low lumen numbers actually produce just as much light, its just light that we don't see so well. The Gro-Lux lamps are a good example. But also look at some wide spectrum "daylight" lamps and you'll see slightly lower lumens, but these lamps are actually putting out just the same number of photons that can be used by plants. It is also worth calculating how many lumens per watt you are getting. An inefficient lamp may give you slightly more lumens but use a lot more electricity, and you'd be better off using a smaller highly efficient lamp for more hours or getting two of them. As an extreme example, a 40W fluorescent tube puts out about barely half as much light as a 400W halogen bulb but the halogen bulb uses ten times as much electricity. Using two 40W bulbs gets you the light and saves you big on your utility bill. Spectrum is also crucial, but the lucky thing for you is that almost any fluorescent tube (excepting weird stuff like black lights, lizard UV lamps, or actinic coral reef lamps) provides a more or less suitable spectrum with at most a few percentage points difference for use lighting geeks to argue about. Get cool whites (4100K temperature), daylights, (5000K-6500K), or a mix with warm whites (3000K) and you'll be fine. CRI is, frankly, close to irrelevant to a plant. The most efficient lighting sources available, in terms of getting plant growth for the least electricity, have such disjointed spectra that you can't meaningfully calculate a CRI. Gro-Lux fluorescents, which whether you think they're better than regular fluorescents or not certainly grow plants, have a CRI in single digits. So, plants clearly aren't that bothered about CRI. But, having said all that, there are some good reasons to choose a fluorescent lamp with a high CRI, assuming you are choosing amongst more or less "normal" fluorescents. CRI stands for colour rendition index and colours appear more realistic under a bulb with a CRI of 90 or more. The wider spectrum may also (or may not) provide more light in the best areas for photosynthesis, but the difference isn't huge. Much has been written and debated about which fluorescent spectra are best for plants, and by how much, but whatever the answer, CRI isn't the right way to measure it....See MoreI have this plant, now what do I do?
Comments (33)Finally got most of my fling finds planted tonight, including replacement broccoli (aka Dawn's urban north broccoli outpost), garlic and several ornamentals. Also my pepper seedlings went in the ground tonight, too. Still have a few fling heirloom tomatoes but need to add compost and manure to the new spot for them. I have something I was unable to identify. There were three black square qt(?) sized pots, and I believe they were labeled on the table underneath but don't remember the name. I recall they were some sort of shade item, green strappy leaves, maybe with lily in the name? I am having a hard time figuring them out, but picked them out thinking "Ah! Perfect spot under the elm tree for them." Now if I only knew what they were... If that sounds familiar to anyone, it'd save me from dragging the camera out. Thanks!...See Morea1an
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoTT zone 7a Novie
5 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 years agoa1an
5 years agobella rosa
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5 years agoa1an
5 years agodbarron
5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agodbarron
5 years agoa1an
5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agodbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoa1an
5 years agodbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agodbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoa1an
5 years agoa1an
5 years agodbarron
5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agodbarron
5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agoa1an
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years agoa1an
5 years agokatob Z6ish, NE Pa
5 years ago
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