Head to Lowes!! They almost always have good deals, at least by me. My washer has died a solid two time in 5 years. Thank goodness for warranty’s! But when we moved in to our current house, it already had a washer and it hasn’t died yet. Good luck finding a new one!!

Lowe's just delivered me new washer and dryer, Tuesday. Mine were Kenmore and lasted for 30 years. My agitator was going on mine.

I had to replace the lid switch this past year (it's a Kenmore top load machine) and a couple things on my dryer...they are probably 13-15 yrs old or so...but when the repairman was out for the lid switch he said the washer is a good washer so I was hoping to keep it going little longer...

Glenda...sounds like maybe that's my issue too.

Best time for an appliance to go...........lots of good buys right now. Highly recommend Speed Queen.

I'm another who highly recommends a Speed Queen.

Easy fix
Drivecoupler

Sparky...I'll check with the appliance repair shop...Friday hopefully. The repair shop I use is a family owned shop, they might be closed tomorrow.

The level switch went out on our Kenmore after 12 years and flooded our entire second floor, then it dripped through the kitchen lights and got some of our first floor hardwoods and baseboard. I'll never trust another Kenmore. We replaced it with Speed Queen.

It may even be the belt that turns the drum if yours has one. Mine gave a clunk and that was it. It was going to be about $300 by the time parts and tech charges for mine. Weighing the age and repair costs I decided it was time for replacement.

A word of caution because my basement flooded between the time it broke and I could get a repair scheduled I selected pedestals to raise it above any future flood. I was thinking I could store soap and softener only to find that most bottles and cartons are too tall to fit.

I was warned not to use my washing machine after the agitator started making weird noise, as I might have water damage and possibly to the condo below me.

I fixed my hand me down washer twice with YouTube. Only paid for the parts.

Moni

Yes, it does sound like the belt broke which is a cheap fix. You can take the front off of the washer with a few screws to confirm before you spend a minimum of $500 on a new washer.

If it is the belt it can be a super simple, very cheap fix.

It would be cheaper still if the manufacturer listed the belt size rather than just a part number. Some time ago my washer's belt broke, and the appliance parts store wanted something like $35 for a replacement. However I determined the size and went to an auto parts store and got a high quality, high-speed, racing belt for about $11.

I have a repair person coming out Tuesday. I'm ok with another reasonable repair at this point unless they tell me it's not fixable or the cost is too much..then it will be replaced.

OK, dadoes, here goes. What's your take on my washer's spin problem?

My bottom-of-the-line Frigidaire front loader washer was manufactured June 2007. Model # FTF2140FSO, made by Electrolux in Aususta, GA.

(My Frigidaire gas dryer was manufactured August 2001 by White Industries. Model #FSG849GHSO. It's fine.)

The washer has begun to fail to spin on HIGH with the same loads it used to handle easily. I've been able to cope by adding the Drain & Spin setting at a lower speed, but this isn't satisfactory. (The machine is level.) The rubber door lining is also stained -- an argument for a new machine?

Each of these machines cost me under $400 new from Abt. This washer replaced its twin (new in 2001) -- overloaded by a house sitter.

Chisue,

I have a similar model, and when I was researching a problem it was having I found descriptions of problems like yours. IIRC problems with spinning are either associated with the spin control board or with the door latch. I think there is a relatively simple test (with a voltmeter or ohmmeter) that can determine which of the two likely issues it is.

If it is the spin control board, I think it is costs something like $300 which IMO is a price selected to cause you to buy a new machine, For a long time appliance parts have been overpriced to dissuade you from repairing rather than replacing the device, but recently the level of overpricing has become very much larger, and rather than providing individual components they've gone to only providing larger subsystems, for which there are often no alternative sources for the subsystem, and for which they can charge whatever they want.

The problem with my similar washer was that although the machine would do each of the individual steps involved in running a cycle, it wouldn't advance from one step to the next. Information I found pointed to the timer control module, and specifically to the timer motor on that module. Of course the timer motor wasn't available separately, and while similar (newer) models used a similar timer control module that cost about $150, for my particular specific model the timer module was about $300. While the $150 version may have worked just fine there is no way to tell, the parts places assert you can only use the exact replacement part. In the end I found a near exact replacement timer motor for about $25, installed into the existing timer control model, and it has been working great.

With my fridge (which is about 10 years old) the ice maker has stopped working for the third time. The first two times it was an electric eye ice level sensor that stopped working. The sensor consists of two small circuit boards, one that generates an infrared beam of light, and the other that if it doesn't detect the IR beam will disable the ice maker thinking the ice bin is full. Each time it has failed it has been the postage stamp-sized IR emitter board that has failed, which only has about 4 components, however, of course they only sell both boards together as a pair. The first time it failed the price for OEM replacement of both boards was about $30, the next time a couple of years later, the price for the OEM boards was about $85. Just now I checked and the current price to buy OEM replacement boards is $196 plus $8 shipping, which is marked down from the list price of $233. Knockoff versions are available for a more reasonable $25 but given that its likely to be the IR emitter board -- again -- that should cost only about $5, and the likely failed component, the IR LED probably costs just a couple of pennies.

While dadoes is right that knowing the exact model is important, sometimes similar models use exactly the same parts, with different part numbers, which can cost very different prices. A dryer I own recently needed the rear support bearing replaced. The parts website steered me toward just the part that mounts on the back of the drum at a price of $40, but the same place offered a bearing replacement kit which included that part, the nylon bracket that mounts on the back wall of the machine, a tube of lubricant, and a few other needed parts, all for $13.

Lowe's, Home Depot, Sears, et al are all promoting deeply discounted appliances this month. So now might not be a bad time to replace. We just replaced a fridge. I'd read where tariffs hit the washers but I haven't shopped those in awhile.

I'll probably have to replace, but am pretty confident that the replacement will be light as a feather, full of plastic parts, needing to *another* replacement...soon. Junk.

Looking at ads...why would anyone pay $400 for a Vacuum Cleaner? I paid less than that to replace the motors on my then-16-year-old central vac that can suck the rugs off the floor.