Option 5 is probably my favorite... I need to see the whole picture (floor) though for better context. My brain works best to shift spaces). But, I am going to point you in the direction of a number of houses by a local designer here (in WA state). They design for a narrow lot with 3 garages (tandem style). You might get some inspiration from them. The homes I've been in from this designer are very livable... When you view this plan at this site, you can choose "view other plans by this designer" and you'll see a few variations of the entry from a 3 car tandem design on a narrow home... Also, I think you'll get more help if you start a new thread with your specific questions. I had mostly ignored this thread because it was from March and I wasn't aware that it had essentially a new question on it. Here is a link that might be useful: one of the plans

lauraella, I like your sliding door, but we don't have room to do that on the outside walls, either - one side is too short, the other has a thermostat. Thank you for the suggestion, housevixen. I'm not sure that I like the looks of the bifold door, with all those hinges. And I think there might need to be even more hinges without a tub; since the panels will be longer, they will be heavier, too. It occurred to me that since the external door is about 24", and I have 5' along the shower, I could set it up so that hinge point is past where the external door would hit,and put a transparent "stop" on the panel to prevent the door from hitting it. Then I'd only have to worry if the swinging shower door went well past 90 degrees - maybe this could be restricted?

Wow, those ones on ebay are gorgeous. So call me stupid, but is cost the reason you aren't just buying a few of those? Having just purchased a whole lotta lumber, I'm here to say they aren't exactly giving the stuff away, even poplar. I'd cost it out and consider your time too before rejecting simply buying those ones, unless they're the wrong size or something else is wrong with them. Having said that, I've used a lot of shelf brackets and would point out that the strength of the bracket also depends on the method of its attachment to both wall and shelf. From the photo, the ebay listing seems to suggest that there are maybe keyhole openings sunk into the backs of these ones. You need to think about whether that's a good enough method for major weight-bearing. Seems to me you're putting a lot of faith in the head of a screw and the secure installation of the keyhole, if my understanding of the forces involved is correct. If you decide to use a through-screw method instead, you have to be able to get to it with a drill/press and with a screwdriver. I've done a lot of swearing while trying to drive screws where I can only insert the screwdriver obliquely. For that reason, as well as to accommodate the bandsaw, it might be good to design something that you can assemble as you install it. I like Brickeyee's idea of using metal to give it real strength. That said, it bugs me when I look at a shelf and it doesn't look strong enough to support the weight on it. That's why I don't like floating shelves; it makes me nervous just to look at them. The design of a bracket has to instill confidence! To go in a completely different direction, have you looked at the metal brackets available at Lee Valley? They may not convert you from wood, but might give you some ideas. I have the Large Cast Steel Brackets in one installation and I still admire them after years of having them. KarinL Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley shelf brackets

Hi Justin. The pics are better, but have some shortcomings, which I'll take a moment to explain in hopes that others may see and forego the errors when they submit pictures in the future... A. is the example of the photos reassembled into a single scene. You can see that the walk doesn't come close to realistically matching up. (If there were other objects in the foreground or background, their locations would seem misleading as well.) B. You can see that there is about a 12' difference (left to right) from the camera position for each shot. C. In general, one is looking to see not just the house, but it's setting. A fair amount of space at the left and right ends of the house should be captured as well. The yellow boxes show how much space I'd like to see and they show the overlap that's necessary so that the viewer can see how the photos relate to one another. To take photos that will be reassembled into a single scene. For all pictures, the camera position must not change. The camera will merely pivot. I almost forgot to mention ... another thing is that the pictures are very small ... about 20 - 25% of optimum size for posting on the forum. If I was to use and enlarge them, the finished product would be quite fuzzy. If there was any way to adjust the camera for a larger picture, it would be helpful.