Ruin Thanksgiving in four words
7 years ago
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Farmers' Almanac using 4 letter word for this year's winter
Comments (10)Even a broken clock is right twice a day. There's a guy on another gardening forum who's been saying for the past 3 years that a very cold winter was coming. Even though the 2 before this were incredibly mild (at least in the mid-Atlantic and south) is he now correct in saying "I told you so?" That being, I think this could be G-d's punishment for the folly of playing the superbowl in the Meadowlands.* BTW I have a huge prediction: one team will win! * one of the the world's great ironic placenames. Ought to be called the "marshy industrial wastelands". This post was edited by davidrt28 on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 10:27...See MoreWhat is ruining my Supersweet 100 fruit?
Comments (20)Alexis, Thanks for posting the photo. Can you tell us how the issue progresses? For example, does the damage start on lower limbs and climb ever higher,branch by branch? Or, does it appear randomly all over the plant at any height and progress erratically? Or (and this could be an important clue), does it strike one limb only or one side only and only damage that area for a while before eventually progressing to the rest of the plant? Photos help a lot. It would be very hard to diagnose without a photo. And yet, photo diagnosis with tomato plant issues can be very tricky. The problem is that most things that can affect a plant, whether they are fungal, bacterial, viral, mechanical or physiological/environmental cause damage that looks pretty much the same....yellowed leaves, leaves that turn brown and crispy, wilting, discolored or rotting fruit, etc. In our climate, the flowers don't tell us much because heat causes blossom drop so you cannot rely upon blossom drop as a clue once the temperatures are above roughly 90-92 during the day and 70-72 at night. (Some tomatoes set fruit at temps higher than those, but the temperatures are a good general rule.) Now, if a plant was dropping blossoms when the daytime highs were in the 80s and the lows were in the 60s, that would be a clue we could decipher. Also, would you classify your area more as rural or suburban? There are things I might suspect as a cause in the country that generally you wouldn't see that often in the city. When a branch becomes sick, does it have fruit on it? If so, do the symptoms hit the fruit? Do they begin to look like the green and brown mottled tomatoes you originally posted? Or, do the fruit look okay and just fail to enlarge and grow because the sick plant cannot support their growth? If you use alfalfa in any way---in compost, alfalfa tea as a growth tonic/fertilizer, alfalfa hayt as mulch, etc., that could be a clue. If you have brought in any sort of organic matter (compost, cow manure, imported/purchased soil mixes or soil-less mixes, that could be an important clue. It is easiest to diagnose a disease on your own plants because you can see how the plant deteriorates from one day to another, whereas a photo of a sick or damaged plant only catches one moment in time. That is one reason it can be so hard for us to look at a photo and give an answer on an issue we haven't been able to watch develop day-by-day. However, that doesn't mean we cannot figure it out. Just that it is more challenging to do so. Are the three plants affected so far all in a row or are they scattered around? Dawn...See MoreSOS my walnut countertop,did I ruin it?
Comments (19)Waterlox is food safe once cured I believe but you still wouldn't chop on it as it would ruin the finish. I've been going back and forth on oiling and Waterlox for quite some time and decided to try the mineral oil/wax route first... I figure if I don't like it I can always sand it down and put a finish on it. What I like about the oil is the look/feel. Also, you can always sand down with a little sanding block any marks and just re-oil. The downside would be there's more maintenance (monthly oiling) and you really need to keep it oiled to help resists stains, etc. With waterloo (or similar) water will always bead and it's easy to wipe down. You can choose their satin finish if you don't like glossy. The Craft Art website (or Waterlox site) gives detailed instructions on how to finish. There's a nice product called Clapham's Beeswax Salad bowl finish (Amazon.com) that rubs in well and got great reviews. I've tried various products on my walnut cutting board. Here are some discussions I've found VERY helpful regarding all of this. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0116253024906.html?11 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012043375905.html?7 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0913354730186.html?df796bfdf359db38a4b9594d4fad145aGq26I http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0211025631864.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214103427485.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0210344920885.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg021053255637.html *Also, keep in mind if you decide to try another product you'd need to sand down what you already have on there.... Good luck!...See MoreLighting Help - Old Light is Ruined, Hadn't Planned on Replacing
Comments (7)I've been pouring over Rejuvenation, but I have no idea what would be good in that space - pendant, flush-mount, semi-flush, chandelier? Two lights, three lights, four lights? In a round arrangement or in a line? I seem to like the mission style type lights best, and I'm kind of liking the billiard-style kind, so I can get two or three lights in a row by the sink...but will that be weird with nothing underneath? I have 8' ceilings... I don't want it to be too low. And then what for the other fixture? Does the table make a difference? It seems that 90% of kitchens these days have islands, so in a kitchen with a table instead of an island, I have no idea what to do! I'm worried I won't have enough light if I do flush or semi-flush, but I don't want the fixture to hang too low. Any ideas?...See More- 7 years ago
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