what would you do? kitchen help
Girlmom101
5 years ago
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christoper
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Help! Advice on what would you do with this kitchen?
Comments (10)Well, there are two ways to go about this. One is what you have already done, which is to say this is what I want, what is going to cost. The other way is to say, Ok, this is what I have to work with, how much can I get done with it? Unfortunately, a strict budget lends itself better to the latter than the former. One way you can save money is acting as your own GC. First, I would open up those two rooms and put new flooring throughout to unify the spaces. See how much money you will have left once the rooms are opened up, and go from there. When doing a kitchen on a budget, and I have done basically what you are talking about with less money, I found it worked best to set a priority list of what NEEDED to be done first. Since opening the rooms requires new flooring to tie the spaces together, start there. It will also make the biggest difference in how you feel about the space. Then decide if your cabinets are in worse shape or the appliances. Can you save any appliances? Just saving a refrig., which is what I did, will save you 1500.00-2500.00+. Make a list of which appliances you really NEED to replace right from the beginning and the minimum you would settle for in those appliances. You might be able to upgrade later if you save money elsewhere or find good sales, etc. But start assuming you won't. If you won't settle for less than a miele DW or a thermadore range you are in trouble on that budget. Look at GE, Kitchenaide and Kenmore, determine what features you REALLY want and get an idea of what they would cost. Then see what you have left for cabinets, pumbing, electrial as well as organizational goodies and cosmetics. If you can't spend much on plumbing and electrical, plan to keep the sink where it is, also the stove if you have a gas range. You have more leeway moving the stove for less expense if the stove is electric. Make sure you have planned for adequate lighting. UC lighting can be added later although it is easier and less expensive to do it before new cabinets go up. If you want recessed ceiling lights you really should plan for that expense up front and do it first. If budget dictated it you could always add plug in UC lights that you attach to the cabinets yourself. Then look at cabinets and layout with reasonably priced lines. Try Ikea for the best budget friendly cabinets. Then find out what a carpenter will charge to install them if you can't. Make it clear you are only going to do what you decide you can afford in the budget and want seperate prices for just the wall work and just the cabinet work. That way, he is not figuring in a large amt of money to GC all the rest. It takes a lot more planning and work on your part to do it for almost half the cost, but if you really want to you CAN do it. For me, it WAS a load bearing wall I wanted to open up and my estimate involved installing an I beam to carry the weight because of that. I decided to put in a 6' wide opeining instead of removing the wall completely because that would have meant messing with a lot more electrical and opening the ceiling to rewire the ceiling fan/light, etc. With the I beam, doing that cost me about 3000.00. Yours certainly should not be more, and may be less because it is mostly demo and cosmetic work afterwards, but watch out for electrical issues and consider scaling down your plans if that would increase costs greatly. For floors, I wanted hardwood but couldn't afford to have it completely installed, so I did the install myself, and saved a couple thousand. Whatever you want, look in the phone book for flooring contractors and start getting estimates yourself, rather than letting another contracter or kitchen design place do it, because they need to increase the price to also make a profit and account for their time to arrange and oversee it. Get recommendations from friends and family who have had wood floors, tile work or whatever done and were happy with it. Any place that sells cabinets should be able to help you with a layout, measure for the cabinets, etc. Then post the layout and plans here and you will get a lot of great ideas, critiques and help for free to fine tune your plan before committing yourself to it. Sue...See Morewhat would you do with this kitchen?
Comments (16)Some more issues from buehl that I figured I would respond to on the forum so that everyone could benefit: (1) Assuming you have a counter-depth and not built-in refrigerator, the aisle will be approx 6" narrower b/w the island & refrigerator...making it only about 34" since most CD refrigerators are closer to 30" deep or so (ours is 31")...plus you have to have room behind it for the plug, anti-tip device, and air clearance, so plan on an additional 1" or so. You may even have an issue getting the refrigerator in/out w/o taking off the ref doors first. This is definitely NOT an aisle width you should start with...if there are any problems that make it even narrower (like what happened to me), then you'll really be in trouble! I recommend adding at least 3" to the aisle width.The range will stick out into the aisle somewhat. Not a big issue, but an FYI. 2.) How big an overhang is your KD putting in? Is it 15"? That's the minimum overhang recommended for counter-height seating. 3.) As to the outside door...can it be a sliding door? I'm asking b/c you really don't have room for an inside swinging door as well as seating at the island. The other option is to have it swing out, but some municipalities don't allow that. MY responses: 1) The CD frig we chose (KA with no ice maker on the door) is 30" depth with handles (although that is only at the very center because the doors are curved) while the stove (Jenn Air duel fuel 36" pro style range) is 30" deep. I am not too concerned about the range because most of it is in the aisle between the cleanup sink and the island. However, with the frig I still think that 40" (really 42" because the KD has said that the 40" included 1" granite overhangs) should be enough. I don't think two people will be standing in that aisle at once or if they need to pass, they can go around. . . 2.) Right now I have a 12" overhang. I think we will start by putting a piece of plywood or old laminate from craiglist over the island and see what kind of space we feel we need. . . I know 15" is min recommended, but I've measured a couple from friends' house (you know you're TKO when. . .) and I've never really had a problem with a 12" overhang. Unless it is a main eating area. I figure this will more be like a place to hang out, not sit long term. Although I could be wrong. 3.) The door is a concern. Especially since we can't put it where Buehl suggested--there isn't room on the property to have stairs if we put it that low down the wall.) Our solution (from bmorepanic) was to go with 48" French doors so that the doors would only open 24" in. Also the active door will be on the right (from outside) or down the wall so that most of the time when one door is open you will walk out and have nothing in front of you. We considered sliding doors, but a 48" sliding door means only every having a 24" opening, which means you must by code here in MA have another 36" door elsewhere (we currently have a 32" door). Also I don't find 24" sliders to be a great product. We considered an out-swing 36" regular door as well as a 48" French door outswinging. Here in MA--it is allowed by code. However, DH doesn't like them. I love it that men don't have to give reasons for what they like or don't like (or at least mine doesn't!) Is this perfect? Probably not. Will it be OK? I hope so. I am having second thoughts on whether I need a prep sink (DH keep trying to talk me out of it), especially given how small the island is. I also have concerns about the MW--will we hate bending over. I'm trying to minimize how much we use the MW in general (cook more, heat up less, less processed food), so maybe this will help? There also doesn't seem to be a concensus on the GE profile website about how much space you need around a convection MW sitting on a shelf in a cabinet (we're not buying the uber expensive built in trim option for something behind and under an island.) Also, I think the sink base needs to increase to 33" to accommodate a 30" sink, which means i need to steal 3" somewhere--probably from the 18" drawer base (moving down to 15" should be OK). Some dimensions not shown in the photo: From Right to Left: L shape cabinet depth: 24" Aisle: 42" (in reality 40" with 2" given for granite overhang) Island cabinet depth: 21" for sink base and MW shelf base Overhang: 12" Aisle to door: 56" Total: 155" The island will be 33"W (including overhang) x 57"L...See MoreWhat would you do to help my kitchen? Pics!
Comments (30)For a couple hundred, I would suggest painting the walls (love your color, but it's dark, and I don't think it's complimenting the "orangey" color of your oak), and add hardware. Even with you doing the work, that's about all your budget allows. If you had a few more hundred, next on my list would be to replace the countertops with formica/laminate. I had to live with a kitchen "update" for ~15 years before I could do the countertops again, and doing the inexpensive countertops was the best $ we spent. The formicas are even better today, and honestly - so practical and maintenance free. I had a small kitchen, and this was a while ago, but my custom (not off the shelf) counters were under $300 (with DIY installation - these counters are very DIY friendly). Lynne...See MoreHelp - what would you do with these small kitchen windows?
Comments (5)Take it down and live with the bare window for awhile to see what you think. You will get a lot more light coming in without a window treatment and I don't think you need one at all since it's not a large space. If you really feel you need something after trying it bare, you could add a simple roman shade mounted on the wall above the window....See Morechristoper
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