Red oak wood with gray stain and oil poly finish
Katie Sky
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Katie Sky
5 years agoRelated Discussions
White or Red Mahogany Counter - Poly or Oil Finish?
Comments (8)Wasabi3, yes please, I'd very much like to see your choices when they're in. I actually wouldn't mind a *bit* of softness and have it be a little bit prone to "aging." Again as a counterpoint to the hard smooth granite. We are probably going with the Absolute Black granite, which will pull the near-black graining out of the Merbau. For my sit-at bar application, would it be recommended that the mahogany (or whatever wood we choose) only be clear stained? No colored stains or dyes? (Actually, I don't even know if the wood can be stained if it is only finished with the tung oil. All new to me, this. Help?) Again, no actual kitchen work to be done here, and no kids living here (only to visit), but I know DH will be interested in a color more on the dark side. He likes the texture counterpoint between the granite and the wood bar, but he doesn't want the wood to add a color contrast. Any thoughts? Thanks, sharon, for the tung oil application instructions. Question, though. Quote: "Put on a coat (with a cloth or your hand) wait 10 minutes and wipe off any excess. Let it dry for an hour. Do another coat the same way. Wait three hours. Do another coat. Do two more coats a day apart then another after about a week." The wood as a counter with this tung oil application is usable after you've waited the one hour, and then the three hours? So apply, let sit, wipe, wait - and then usable, right? Thanks. Sherry....See Moreremoving oil-like marks.stains when screening/finishing oak wood
Comments (1)I think using two different types of sanders will do the best job. First, to get off the remaining poly, use a buffer sander with mesh pads. Start at 80 grit and then 100. Use a ROS for corners(and a card scraper). Then switch to a U-Sand sander. That is a heavy machine with four sanding ROS type sanders and dust collection. It is only recommended for unfinished floors. Start with 100 grit and work to 150 and 220. I always do floor sanding/finishing in the summer so I can turn off the blower....See MoreHas anyone had success with a light brown/gray stain on red oak floor
Comments (46)@katiejeane i am glad i came across your post of red oak flooring. i have been trying for months to get the color right and love your home and floor. I have some questions and hope you dont mind me asking. do you get a lot of natural light? What sun exposure do you have? id love to see the floor up close to see the background color and grain. would you mind posting a picture? what poly did you apply and what finish: extra matte or satin? hoping you did not water pop or pretreat the floor to get the red out since we are not doing those things. you still love it and have no regrets? i have tried every combination that i have resorted to non-mixed colors of special walnut, and provincial, and mixed of medium brown/rustic, chestnut/rustic and going to try your mix of medium brown/weathered. what were your runner ups. So afraid to pick wrong again (first pick i selected weathered oak and what a distaster - way to pink on red oak). yoir guidance and insight are welcome. looking to put this part of the project behind me....See Morered oak wood floor, stain or natural finish
Comments (6)A picture would be great. I don't know if you have wood floors in other rooms but they should all match. Ideally you'll want some contrast between the cabinets and floors, so if a natural finish makes the floors too close to the cabinets you might want to consider a stain....See MoreOak & Broad
5 years agoKatie Sky
5 years agoJohnson Flooring Co Inc
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojhmarie
5 years agoSJ McCarthy
5 years ago
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