please help! kitchen cabinet upgrade?
Reba
5 years ago
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Reba
5 years agomillworkman
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Builder Upgrades Selection Help... Please!
Comments (6)did they offer any energy efficient upgrades? Or I should ask, where is the home located and what is the exterior shell construction like? Energy efficient upgrades and air sealing enhancements should be your FIRST place to spend money. It is the only place in your home to have any sort of a pay back for you. What windows are they including? As for the rest of your list, its really impossible to have any idea on costs associated with the house with seeing a plan or knowing sizes of spaces. For example, the wood flooring. If your home is 4k sqft, thats a great price. If its 1k, thats a really bad price. However just looking at the prices, nothing is really jumping out at me as way higher then it should be. I would probably not have the builder responsible for appliances. I would think that is an area you would like to have complete control on what you select. No one here can really tell you which one of those cosmetic items you should or shouldnt do since it is your home. Do it how you like it! Typically the more you can compile into the build process, the better. It MAY be possible to do it afterwards, but also consider the mess and additional time it will take to fully complete the house. Discuss with him owner-provided items and ask for install only pricing too. Sometimes they are flexible with this and give you a good install price. Just know things like this are up to you to have things ordered, on site and correct to meet the timelines. If things are delayed, they come at a cost, which is out of your pocket not his....See MoreUpgrading Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets
Comments (6)If this were my kitchen, I would be so happy, it is in great condition. The decorating scheme is a bit too frilly, however. To advance it out of the 90's, get rid of the large floral thingies on the walls, the curled-arm barstools, the floral rugs, and paint all the walls a deeper shade, closer to the cabinet hue. Change out the cabinet knobs and pulls to something darker. Also change the light fixtures to match the new knobs-- all that silver/nickle is very 1990's. Do not try painting the cabinets--that is very likely to give poor results as a DIY. Deeper toned rugs and knix the florals. Good luck!...See MoreAre these kitchen cabinet upgrades worth it?
Comments (30)Kountry Wood Products vs. Diamond I don't know Kountry Wood, but Diamond is good stuff. - 1/2 inch particleboard cabinet box sides Go with the strongest boxes you can get. These things are going to be around a long time, and -- as you say -- changing them is a lot of trouble and expense. They're going to be used and abused, stuffed full, leaned upon ... go with strong stuff to start with. - Standard overlay Standard overlay is usually called partial overlay. I'd definitely go with full overlay because it allows you better access to your cabinets -- I'd be willing to pay extra for this. With standard overlay, you get that "post in the middle". Something you didn't mention: Are you going with at least some all-drawer stacks instead of standard cabinets? Drawers give you better access to all your stuff. You also didn't mention whether you're using any specialized pull-outs. I don't think these are a very good bang for the buck. They cost $$$, but they only store a tiny bit. Consider: A similar cabinet concept: If you're using a Lazy Susan in the corner, but sure it's a Super Susan, not just a Lazy Susan ... the difference is that the Lazy Susan (left) is shelves supported by a central post, whereas the Super version (right) is wooden shelves supporting the turn-tables separately. - Flat drawer fronts This is a matter of style. No functional difference. - Solid wood drawer boxes with dovetail joints - Cheap epoxy coated side mount drawer slides - Thicker 3/4 inch shelves - Smooth bottom mount drawer slides with full extension and soft close Yes, pay extra for these things. When they're new, all drawers should work great -- you're paying extra so they'll continue to work well in years to come. I'd go so far as to say you should go with heavy-duty drawer slides on ALL your drawers. And be sure your drawers go allll the way to the back of your cabinet. I know, you'd assume they do ... but I have a 30" deep peninsula with two 20" deep drawers, which means I have about 10" of empty space behind those drawers that's going unused. The style we want is white shaker style. I don't think anyone's bought anything else for the last decade. The builder did say that the issues with the warped doors and loose center pieces can be fixed, but I'm skeptical about that and feel that brand new cabinets shouldn't need fixing I agree with you -- if they're not right on the day they're installed, they'll never be right. Is this the Kountry brand? If so, I'd avoid them. I was always amazed that these giant houses often had the lowest level of cabinets offered by this manufacturer. It might not be 100% ignorance. Don't we see plenty of people on this board building big-big houses, more than anyone needs? I do wonder if some of these people don't reach the finishing stages -- things like cabinets -- and realize that their finances force them to go with builder-basic items because they've already shot the budget. I would steer clear of any company that deliberately misspells their own name. Nothing good can come from that... :) My father's been dead almost three decades, but I can still hear him ranting about that very topic. I wish I could direct my potential clients to this thread when they try to tell me they can get cabinets that “look” just like the ones I’m selling for a much lower price. Yeah, but will those cheaper cabinets still "look" (and function) just like yours in a decade? We all know the answer to that question. I understand that cabinets are tremendously expensive, but this is an area where it makes sense to put in quality -- doing anything else is false economy. Our ceilings are also 9 ft. Our uppers used to be 42" tall with 12" of empty space above. Now our uppers are 46" tall (custom cabs) with 8" of molding above to meet the ceiling. Yes, I totally agree that cabinets-to-the-ceiling are expensive but worth the cost. You can achieve this by buying taller cabinets or by stacking two shorter cabinets....See More1961 kitchen upgrade help!
Comments (5)I love your taste in inspiration images! Here’s what I see. The first thing I’d do in your space is remove the texture from the ceiling. You can do that yourself, or hire a painter to do it before he paints the ceiling. Those cabinets can be cleaned, sanded and coated in polyurethane fairly easily. It's a lot of elbow grease, but that again is something you can DIY, or have the painters do. The one cabinet I would alter though, would be that raised bar area. I’d make it the same height as the rest of your cabinets to truly update the look. This might be easier than you think, as you have stick built cabinetry. It means cutting down the cabinet sides, face, and doors. I would also re-do the backsplash, removing the existing tile and replacing it with a paler green or blue tile. Regarding the floor, you have red oak throughout the home. I’d put the same flooring in the kitchen. This will probably involve removing a subfloor build-up of 3/4” plywood. If your counters are laminate, it is pretty inexpensive to keep the substrate and re-laminate it with a white Formica. It will make a huge difference in how bright the space feels (and Two of your inspiration images have white counters). Another option would be to choose Corian. What a great space!...See Morewiscokid
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