This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

"One question--I've Redgard isn't ok. But, maybe it is. If we go the RedGard route, are you saying you would use that with a kerdi or laticrete drain, then? (I know nothing about drains. Sort of assumed the plumber did that)." RedGard is a fine topical membrane. RedGard is sold through Home Depot, so there is a chance that any naysayers out there might be using the product without reading the directions. Just sayin'... Now that being said...personally, I prefer Hydroban, but that's me. If you use RedGard on a shower floor, use a 2-part clamping drain and the "Divot Method". If you use Hydroban, then you can use Laticrete's HydroBan flanged Drain, or Schluter's flanged Kerdi Drain. I think the flanged drain method with Hydroban is superior to the Divot Method with the clamping drain and RedGard. "And, then, regarding the use of spectralock to "ensure" waterproofing... I'm paranoid about mildew/mold and rotting out the boards (mostly the great big beam that has replaced our former exterior wall with this addition and over which our shower would span). Any suggestions on how to optimally protect that beam? " A properly applied topical membrane gives the best protection from leaks. The topical membrane with the flanged drain will give you the best installation in terms of minimizing moisture penetration below the tile. With minimal wetting below the tile, there is less chance for mildew. Ventilation within the shower is paramount. Not just the fan, but the ducting needs to be properly set and sized. But that's another story for another day. So if mildew is a concern, then I highly recommend a topical membrane, the flanged drain with HydroBan approach, which is what we've been discussing, or a Kerdi drain with Kerdi membrane. Your shower is not a steam shower, so the Hydroban will be sufficient and probably less expensive. "(and the tile--will I need something like that orange decoupler stuff on the floor to prevent cracks from any movement?)" "Orange decoupler stuff", I'm going to assume that is a reference to Ditra? If you need that, yes, it goes on the bathroom floor outside the shower area. Whether you need it or not can depend on your floor structure and what type of tile (porcelain or natural stone for example) you are using. " Linear drain at the shower threshold..." Some locales do not permit a trench drain at the shower entry threshold due to flow-over issues. Sudsing from soap or shampoo can cause water to sheet right over the drain and puddle in the non-membraned/protected areas of the bathroom floor. If the entire room is made into a wetroom, not all portions of the room need to be sloped. And even if the floor area around the toilet is sloped, the toilet should still be set level. Another option would be to use a wall-mounted toilet.

hi, Yes we do. I let them run for 5 min to kinda try to get things going. The condensation is uniformly across all the walls (interior and exterior). All the walls are also warm and the heat is on. we do actually have plaster. The main vent has a 6" duct. With both fans on you can really feel wind resistance when you shut the bathroom door. so there is a lot of air moving. I just don't get why everything isn't sucking up. A 150 cfm main fan and another 80 CFM fan should be plenty of power right?

Per the 2008 NEC: Article 404 "Switches", Part 4 "Damp or Wet Locations": Switches shall not be installed within wet locations in tub or shower spaces unless installed as part of a listed tub or shower assembly. Article 406 "Receptacles", Part 8 "Receptacles in Damp Locations": (C) Bathtub and Shower Space. Receptacles shall not be installed within or directly over a bathtub or shower stall. (Note: A "receptacle" is defined as an outlet where a user connects a plug.) Article 410 "Luminaires, Lampholders & Lamps", Part 10 "Luminaires in Specific Locations": (D) Bathtub and Shower Areas. No parts of cord-connected luminaires, chain-, cable-, or cord-suspended luminaires, lighting track, pendants, or ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans shall be located within a zone measured 900 mm (3 ft) horizontally and 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower stall threshold. This zone is all encompassing and includes the space directly over the tub or shower stall. Luminaires located within the actual outside dimension of the bathtub or shower to a height of 2.5 m (8 ft) vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold shall be marked for damp locations, or marked for wet locations where subject to shower spray. Hope this clarifies. -Patrick