Basic fig 1-0-1.
Monyet
5 years ago
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katiebeth128_wv_6b
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Al's Gritty 5.1.1 or 1.1.1. Which is best for 10b zone
Comments (52)Anurag - the thread about container soils and water retention was written with the hope that those reading it would come away with an understanding of how water behaves in soils, & particularly how particle size and other physical characteristics impact perched water retention and o/a water retention. It's up to the grower to decide what he/she wants to do - how diligently they want to work at reducing the amount of excess water their soils hold. 1:1:1, screened bark:screened Turface:grit is the most productive soil I've used, but I don't use it for everything. Veggies & plants I know are only going to live a year of go 1 year between repots, usually go in the 5:1:1 mix. All of my woody plants, housep0lants including succulents, and other plants I know will be in the same soil for 2 growth cycles or longer, go in the gritty 1:1:1 mix. The 1:1:1 and 5:1:1 ratios are guidelines, but they're good ones. They minimize the amount of perched water a soil holds, and the gritty mix makes a good run at maximizing the volume of water held inside soil particles while still offering additional adjustability. If you live in a rainy climate and you're using the gritty mix, you might want to increase the amount of grit and decrease the amount of Turface commensurately. If it's dry where you live, increase the Turface and decrease the grit - but make sure that the soil holds enough water to carry you through the dry days, but not so much your plant suffers during periods of prolonged rain. Shading the pots when it's hot is very helpful. High soil/root temps is one of the primary limiting factors for container growers. I like soluble synthetic fertilizers. There is no more efficient way to ensure your plants get what they need, when they need it, at the right ratio, and in a favorable o/a concentration. How you fertilize is up to you, but soluble synthetics make fertilizing almost foolproof, as long as the grower holds up his/her end of the deal. When you root prune, the object is to eliminate large roots that aren't attached to the trunk and are in unfavorable positions to make room for and increase the number of fine roots, which do all the work except anchoring and transport. You'll need to develop a feel for root pruning because all plants don't get the same treatment. Reread the thread about water movement in soil, and the one about trees in containers. Make sure you understand what's in those threads. If you do gain that understanding, it should make a significant difference in what you get back for your efforts. Best luck. Al...See MoreSusan 1; Squash Bugs 0
Comments (16)Rita, First, find the source of the honeydew. Normally it is aphids. Make sure the plants themselves are infested with whatever is spreading the honeydew. Check the undersides of your leaves for aphids or anything else. If there's nothing on the plants from which honeydew would come, then look at taller plants nearby. A lot of people have had aphids on pecan trees shedding honeydew not only on the pecan foliage but on anything underneath or beside the pecan trees. It is tricky to use anything like insecticidal soap or neem in these hot temperatures, but if you choose to use one of those options, spray after the sun has gone down and it has cooled off in the evening. I'd test spray one leaf and wait 24 hours and check for damage. Then, if there isn't any damage, I'd spray the rest of the plants with the same material in the same concentration in the same cool, shaded, evening conditions. You also could use a general pesticide. A good organic one would be spinosad. There are many chemical ones, and I won't recommend one because I don't use them so really don't have an opinion of which ones work best. If I had honeydew from aphids and found the aphids in the garden, I'd likely try to find lady bugs, purchase them, and release them in the cool of the evening. I'd spray sugar water on the plants I wanted them to visit. Spraying sugar water on the plants encourages lady bugs to stick around and work instead of flying away looking for their favorite food. I grow catnip every year, and I have big patches right by both my squash beds. I've done it for years. Some years I have no squash pests, some years I have none. I have no idea if the catnip makes a difference. What I have noticed, though, is that if I let it go to bloom, it attracts beneficial insects like crazy and perhaps they prey upon the squash pests. Susan, because you garden for butterflies, you likely would not want to let your catnip bloom. It attracts predatory wasps that prey upon caterpillars. Dawn...See Moreversion 1.0 of our appliance list-- please review!
Comments (10)We have the Thermador 36" induction cooktop, and the non-Icon wave-touch Elux single wall oven, similar to your list. I like this combination very much. I do a lot of high-heat cooking. I sear and stir-fry regularly, I also can and pressure cook. The cooktop handles all of these easily. It also simmers and poaches at steady low heat. I use the timer a lot. The hob layout makes sense to me, and the control panel is very intuitive and user friendly. I get no buzzing or clicking or other strange noises, and I have basic cookware - some stainless, some bare cast iron, some enamelled cast iron, nothing special. I bought the oven mainly because of the good feedback it gets on this forum. In 8 months I've baked, roasted, broiled and dehydrated, and the oven does everything beautifully. I've used the temperature probe and timed bake, but no other program modes. We put a Panasonic convection MW in the cabinet above the oven, where the previous double unit had a MW. I have another countertop MW which I'm going to use until it dies, so the Panasonic hasn't gotten a lot of use. I do like the combination cooking option which makes it like a poor woman's speed oven. The DW is what the house came with, I think it's a Frigidaire. It does a decent job, but honestly I don't notice it much which must mean it's OK. We have our cooktop against a wall, with a Kobe 36" CH-122 SQB vent overhead. The maximum vent rate is 720cfm but I almost never have to use it this high. It's quiet and efficient which is all I want. Cheryl...See MoreRebloomers 1 / Non Rebloomers 0
Comments (13)Serratas all the way! Lady in Red in particular had zero dieback for two straight years, even with eighteen gazillion late freezes. "Rebloomers" are what they are. But beware, about half of those marketed as such are what I'd consider to be reliable. And there are a few standouts, which I've listed on this board before. It *is* an end-all list, since I've been growing macs in the volatile zone 6 of Pittsburgh for a decade now. Most of the unreliable half might do well in superb soil and extremely heavy protection, or mini zone 7's like Oakmont. But late freezes are still late freezes. You'll see tons of swelling green buds in February and they'll mostly be dead by May - you've been warned! Long story short, I'm moving to a nearby location in July. Out of 100+ hydrangea, I'm taking less than half with me. That's right, I'm selling 'Springwood Gardens'......See Morekatiebeth128_wv_6b
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