I'd slap a fence on the Raptor and cut the tops down in the house. The inside corners and ends that butt to cabinets and walls would have to be freehanded. The masking and cleanup bill would be about as much as the work itself, but it could be done depending on the size and configuration of the job. Of course this is assuming the edges lip over the cabinets; you can't cut the edge off and expose underlayment. If not, you're back to replacement. Here is a link that might be useful: Raptor

I am a fabricator. "Brand has no bearing on chipping; it's all the same stuff." for quartz this is exactly correct. For the harder natural stones a well rounded edge provides substantial protection from chipping. You really have to whack a rounded edge to chip it. Occasionally, even in hard stones, an inclusion can pop out. If you manage to save the popped out piece the repair is simple. For other chips the repair is also relatively simple with the fillers and tools available to the fabricator AS LONG AS the customer has realistic expectations. If you follow Joe you know he spends a lot of effort making sure the customers expectations are realistic before he starts a job. For softer stones like marble and travertine chipping is a greater risk simply because the mechanical integrity of the stone is much less than granite or quartz. Repairs can also be more challenging as matching light colors or white is more difficult. A trick is to grind up a bit of the stone and use it to color a clear adhesive but you have to have a scrap piece of the stone for this to be an option. All that said rounded edges are much less prone to chipping on any material. A competent fabricator has this discussion with a customer automatically as part of the edge selection process. My 2 cents.

Mine is a horror story - learn from it. Versus taking the sound advice from Kevin (azstoneconsulting), I let my emotions rule my decision by listening to the fabricator. He said they'd have someone there standing right next to the sander, getting all of the dust so there would only be a little (it was 25 feet across the room, in every cupboard - everywhere you can imagine). In addition, they said there would be very little water. There were gallons. There has to be or the quartz/epozy will burn. They attempted to build water dams with plastic sheets and kept the wetvak hose and a sponge by it - that didn't work.......still got on my hardwood which buckled them (they did lay down after they dried). The water spray/mixed with quartz dust got all the way up to the crown molding and on the upper cabinets. To top it all off, it still looks awful. The guy admitted that doing it by hand, in those conditions could not produce as good of an end result as doing it at the factory with proper equipment. Bottom line - listen to Kevin azstoneconsulting. I've since learned that he is extremely experienced and knowledgable. I totally sympathize with your concerns and heartache about having them remove your quartz, repair and replace, and all that goes with that, but trust me, that's the best way to go FOR YOU, maybe not them. Don't settle for lesser quality than you paid for. Good Luck! Keep us informed.

@Kris E Please pay close attention to what @joseph_corlett said in the previous post. I think you might have your answer there with a custom sink. Furthermore, you could even ask for a custom sink to be made in a flush-mount style and solve this problem entirely with zero re-fabrication of the quartz required. I'll explain more about that in a minute, but first I want to point out that adding a faucet deck may not change the configuration of the quartz, but it certainly changes the configuration in terms of where the faucet is mounted. The faucet not only will now protrude from metal rather than from quartz, but in your case since the sink is undermounted, the faucet will be at a lower level than the quartz. I think this would be even further from what your wife had in mind than is your current scenario. In fact, I was trying to find a sample photo for you of what this would look like and came up empty handed because it just isn't done that often. It's more common to see a metal faucet deck on a flush mount or drop-in style of sink where the faucet can protrude at a level even with the countertop. Here's a sample photo of a faucet deck on a flush-mount sink: Moving on to the custom sink idea, Joseph has suggested that if you sacrifice the current sink, it can be cut out and thereby save you the risk of deconstructing your cabinetry to take it out in one piece. You haven't told us if your cabinetry was painted after installation, but even if it wasn't, there are different ways that cabinets are put together, and the sink base sitting in my kitchen right now prepared for installation for my own renovation is very solidly built with multiple methods and points of attachment of the face to the box, so it's my personal opinion that you are facing at the very least a risk to the finish by considering this option, but of course your technician on site would be better positioned to advise you on that based on how your cabinetry was built and coated. Joseph gave you a plan whereby you could go back with another undermounted apron-front sink which would require some re-fabrication of the quartz to work around the miter problem. Joseph has given you alternatives of either building down the edges of the full surround or notching the mitered edge, examples shown as follows: With the first option, you end up with a larger-than-average lip around the sink, although in your specific case the miter size looks to be within range of this being an acceptable alternative, and with the second option, my personal opinion is that the notch is unattractive. What I'd like to suggest as another alternative is a flush-mount sink, also sometimes called an up-mounted or top-mount sink, like this photo from Havens Metal: There is also the drop-in style option, again a photo from Havens Metal: I will tell you right off that I've done research on both these sink mounting styles, and the drop-in styles tend to develop crud at the lip. That's why kitchen design has so strongly trended toward undermounted sinks in the last couple of decades, due to ease of cleaning. The top-mount, up-mount, or flush-mount, whatever you want to call it, has a similar problem in that the division between the countertop and sink needs to be well-sealed and can fray over time, not to mention be a little more difficult to maintain in terms of cleaning than an undermount. However, the fireclay and other white styles of farmhouse, apron-front sinks are often mounted in an flush-mount manner, so this style of installation is something that is still done in modern design. Coming back full circle to Joseph's original suggestion to do a new undermounted apron-front with a notch at the side, here is an example of that very installation style from Havens Metal: The important thing is to know ahead of time what the look will be depending on what option you choose. There are many custom sink manufacturers around the country, but Havens Metal and Rachiele stood out in my own research for my kitchen renovation due to their quality and service. Havens used to manufacture all of Rachiele's sinks but separated out a few years ago and now focuses exclusively on its own line of products. Rachiele isn't a manufacturer but rather contracts its production out to other companies. [Correction: Rachiele recently established its own factory.] I chose the Prestige finish that Havens Metal offers which is a rolled, 3D finish that helps hide scratches and water spots, an important factor to me since I did select an apron-front style, and scratches and water spots can be especially prominent on stainless steel sink aprons. Rachiele also offers a similar textured finish. The pricing from Havens slightly beat that of Rachiele, and I felt comfortable working directly with a manufacturer that could communicate directly with me to customize any element I wanted which is why I ultimately chose Havens. Ask for Alex Havens when you contact the company if you go that route. Note that Rachiele also has a great reputation for customization via the owner Dino Rachiele. In closing, I will agree with what @Kelly Zamonski stated about apron-front sink planning being critical at the cabinetry design phase. So much of what happens at installation is controlled by the sink-to-cabinet ratios. If you weren't involved with decisions at that phase, then someone really dropped their responsibility with assisting you in this remodel. By moving forward with a custom sink, you can have the measurements made to retrofit your current space precisely. I'd also like to reiterate what I mentioned earlier in this thread, that what you have now isn't all that bad and probably something you'd get used to seeing over time. Please let us know if we may help with any more specific information. On an entirely different topic, after much research, I chose a Brizo articulating faucet with covered hose in Brilliance Stainless, a PVD finish, to go with my custom sink. You might check out the quality and function of that style if your faucet isn't selected already.