Thanks MichaelG and Dan for your responses... Michael, (smiley face) thanks so much for the very helpful link and yes, the sulfur seems like a really effective more broad application. Thanks to you I also now have a new link that I can clip on the Organic Roses Forum... I didn't notice/find the forum until you mentioned it to me so now I'll have some comparisons to find out the ingredient components before I do any buying for so called organic insecticides... some of the organics I would have concern about in terms of the effects on good versus bad insects, so with that forum I can quickly gleen out which ones I'd be more comfortable with... I am leaning more toward the Canola oil application for the "insecticide"...but back to the subject of organic fungicides, the sulfur it seems like a really good option for me... Again, tons of thanks, appreciation...

Thanks mauirose and silvia I have good news. I have seen several beans way up there. This bean's flowers are tiny white/yellow that is hard to detect. I was looking for some bright color flowers. Now it seems that more flowers are gettin ready. As I have said, too much nitrogen could not be the problem because I have them in 5 different locations. The ones that are fruiting now are the ones I have paid the most attention. In another location it is growing with cypress vine, Hyacinth pole beans, passiflora incarnata, trrumpet vine. Almost all of the rest in the gang have been flowering, exept for the trumpet vines which are very young. I think, as suggested, there might be a connection with the duration of daylight. O' Powder mildew on beans??? I have that problem with cukes, squash, melon, gourds(cucurbita). But I keep them at check point. I use neem oil and daconill (on gourds) cyrus

emyers, I doubt that Neem oil will be effective against your tomato leaf problem. It remains to be seen what the Copper Sulfate will do. Are you certain that the leaf spots you are seeing are bacterial, and not fungal as in Septoria Leaf Spot? The product GreenCure® is safe to use and effective against a number of foliage problems, including Septoria Leaf Spot. However, I think it would be ineffective against Bacterial Spot. I spray GreenCure on my zinnias to help maintain their foliage health, even though I am not an organic gardener. ZM

Rhizo-1, yes, I too love experiments. But granted these are not serious experiments, just fun things to do for people who enjoy the process. It's fun to play around with organics I feel! You might as well make things fun while waiting. I expected tons and tons of BS to overwinter since I didn't get blackspot until the rainy fall and I thought hmmm, since this is my second year of rose-growing in my garden I expected an onslaught because I didn't clean up my BS ridden leaves until March 1st 2010, and never was any sulfur applied to the soil either plus I have tons of rotting composting annuals in my soil. But so far everything looks great! I still FORGOT THE CORNMEAL! lol! We'll see, not an ounce of powdery mildew or BS yet. But just wait until I get the onslaught of fall rains, lol! AnnTN I definitely agree that true experiments involve very tight control groups. Everyone has different soils and different roses so this can tremendously impact the effectiveness of the experiments. The only "accurate" experiments I've ever tried was doing a test group of 6 transplanted baby lavenders. Each of those lavenders was placed in the exact same soil and were of identical sizes and came from the exact same organics grocery store. I fed 1/2 of those transplanted lavenders with B1 vitamin and the other 1/2 with Gardenville sea tea. I quickly concluded that B1 vitamin didn't do a whit for my baby lavender-they remained tiny for two weeks, whereas the sea tea fed lavender doubled in size. Hence I concluded that B1 vitamin was a bunch of bogus in terms of "helping with transplant shock" or being a plant nutrient. But again these organic experiments are just for fun and for curiosity's sake. Maureen, fantastic idea! A Foliage Award, I love it!. Let's add this foliage award for 2010...I expect to be the last-in-place, lol! Also the Foliage Award gives more motivation and gives visual "proof" of one's experiment. O.K. here is how I would describe my soil...heavy clumpy clay. My climate is hot in the summer 85-100 degrees in August, winters used to be mild with only 3 snow days, but not this year! Record-breaking snows and cold. Spring has been very reasonable in terms of rain, lots of clear skies so that is why I am guessing there is no blackspot or powdery mildew yet (last year my full-sun roses remained BS-free for Spring and Summer only because my roses are 1st year roses). Two of my newly planted roses receive shade, but there will be 4 total with shade. In the backyard there will be full sun for half of the day during summers, when fall comes they will be in partial shade because the direction of the sun will shift and the shade growing roses will actually increase in sunlight just a little bit. Next I will categorize the health of my vulnerable hybrid teas versus my resistant OGRs separately so that we don't confuse issues. Unfortunately the OGRs will experience their 1st year of growing so that there is no comparison between past performance and new performance. My goal is to remain BS free during the fall rains, FAT CHANCE, but at least I can entertain myself, hee-hee!