Terrible Fumes from Oil-based polyurethane 4 weeks after finished
merepaley
5 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (28)
merepaley
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Oil-based Polyurethane fumes and Puppies
Comments (3)Hi Lcross24 I will close all the doors and put extra vent to get more fresh air to the basement..., usually when we sand the floor and using oil base we ask to people to leave the house, but in that case try to separate the basement as much as you can from the rest of the house just to be on the safe side, after the installer finish the job try to leave the windows open to refresh the air, the small will stay for few days.....See MoreOil vs. Water-Based finishes
Comments (14)I'm in the same boat here as far as having to choose between the two (oil/acid or water based). As part of a gut to the walls remodel, I'm having about 650 sq ft. of CVG fir floors installed. I've talked to my flooring installer at length about the relative pros/cons of the various finishes. The conclusion I've come to is that yes, durability can be equal or better with a water based finish, but depending on the wood, the look may or may not be what you want. The guy doing my floors is a one man operation, hard to get because he is so much in demand for the quality of work that he does. He told me that, at least for the fir that I'm doing, although the durability would probably be the same, I most likely would not be happy with the water based finish, even Bona Traffic. He said that for some woods it's great, but does not bring out the color like Glitza does, at least for the fir. We are going to do the first 2 coats with Glitza acid cure, then the top coat with Glitza's new water based finish. According to him, the new water based finish from Glitza is truly state of the art, the best there is at the moment. So, I'm going to sacrifice & find a place to stay for couple of days (with my two cats) while the initial two coates of Glitza acid cure is applied. We are then going to cover the floor with a felt cloth and masonite, finish the rest of the work on the house, then at the end, do the final finish coat with the new Glitza water based finish. I really want to bring out the best in this flooring. It is old growth, 200+ probably year old Doug fir, sold in a hazardous tree sale by the forest service. It was rough milled and stored for about the last 6 years. The material for my floor was hand picked, then sent the the mill and milled into flooring for my project. My interior doors, entrance door, and all of my base, case and window trim has all been custom milled from the same batch of wood, so I'm really excited to see it come together....See MorePolyurethane over oil based stain?
Comments (13)For any finishing procedure it is best to practice the entire process so that you aren't surprised at the end. (I turned a whole maple floor pumpkin orange one time, recovering from that taught a lifelong lesson). Where you don't have a piece of wood that was used in the project you can either use something similar, or an out-of sight part of your bookshelf-- like the bottom or the underneath side of the bottom shelf. Color especially will change as you go through the different finishing steps. Set up a space with good ventilation, as little dust as possible, and excellent, very bright lighting from several sides, with strong sidelighting to allow you to see the surface in detail. Prior to staining, sand to P150-P220 grit using a random orbit sander. (At least P220 if hand sanding) Don't skip any grits and sand until the scratches from the previous grit disappear, they will never go away later, and will pop up like a sore thumb when you apply finish. Vacuum the surface with a brush head and then use a tack rag (either a traditional sticky one of a microfiber rag) to get all the dust you can. Stain, if you need to. I prefer using trans-tint dyes in denatured alcohol, but some people (I'm not one of them) have good success with oil stains. Very lightly hand sand with P320 to knock off any nits. Repeat with the tack rag. Apply a coat of gloss oil-base polyurethane from the can. Use either a good natural bristle brush (Purdy or Wooster make OK ones at $15-20 for a 2-1/2" brush.) Don't mess with cheap brushes, they are pure frustration. Throwaway foam brushes also work well with poly, and may well be your best choice. Buy several and throw them away rather than trying to clean them for re-use. Work quickly to get finish onto a surface, then finish with very light strokes as long as possible with the grain of the board (called "tipping off"). Then stop, don't mess with it any more. Watch for sags ad drips, and catch them before the finish starts to set up. They greatly complicate the rest of the process. Allow the finish to dry thoroughly. Usually several days. You want it to come off as dust when you sand, not globs of glue on your sanding pad. Sand with P220-280 using a ROS, or 320 by hand. Sand until most of your brush marks are gone, nits are removed and the surface is smooth. Do not sand through your stain! Vacuum and tack off your work, and thoroughly clean your work area, then tack off you project again. Apply another coat of clear gloss finish. Allow to dry thoroughly again. Most woods take 3 coats to give a good surface. If you have a good uniform surface you can stop there, otherwise proceed to a third coat. Sand by hand with P320 to take off the nits. This is your "money coat", so become fanatical about dust control and removal. After tacking I will also use a microfiber rag dampened with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol to remove the last of the dust. Apply a third coat of finish. Use gloss if that's what you are aiming for, use a semi-gloss or matte poly if you are shooting for that. The more matte finishes are gloss poly with small particles added to break up the light. They also, to a small extent, obscure the wood. I prefer to use only gloss and then buff to the desired finish level. Allow to dry. If you are happy with what you see you are done. I like to rub out these finishes to give them a smoother more pleasing surface. How much you do is a function of where you want the finish to end up. Getting to a high gloss is a lot of work, and I'm not going to get into that here. Allow the finish to dry completely-- 2-3 weeks at least in most cases, a couple of months is better. (So this is not good as a production method, better suited for weekend warriors) It won't work if the finish is still sticky at all. The idea is to burnish the surface. I start with 0000 steel wool and rub down the entire surface. Strokes with the grain are preferred, you will see shiny spots around the dust motes you missed, rub until these are all gone. Change pads as the surface fills, or re-fold to expose fresh steel wool. The finish should come off as a tiny bit of very fine white dust as you're doing this. You will notice that the surface feels much nicer than it did before. If you'd like a bit more shine you can wax the surface. Do not use grocery store furniture polish. There are a variety of products from woodworking supply places or Amazon that are primarily carnauba wax, softened with beeswax and solvent. Trewax and Briwax are two good brands. Run don't walk from products that don't tell you what's in them, promise miracles, or have any form of silicone. Antique cans of Simonize car wax are also good! Apply the wax to the whole piece then buff with a clean soft cloth (old t shirt or flannel). You will work up a sweat in this process, these are not "instant gratification" products. Once done you are finished and your project will stand up for years of use and abuse. Hope this helps. It's a lot of work and takes a long time, but the results are pretty decent and it's very satisfying. This post was edited by rwiegand on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 10:09...See Morewater based or oil based finish for wood floors?
Comments (11)This is an old post so I imagine this has long since been resolved for the OP, but since I just saw it, figured I'd throw our experience in anyway for future searchers on this topic: We have an interesting case study in that the floors in our house and our neighbors' identical house were both redone about five years ago (before we were on the scene, so don't know specific products used). The floors are identical hundred-year-old white oak installed at the same time (same family built both). Both were sanded down, neither was stained, and ours was finished with a water-based finish, theirs with oil-based. Both still look fine five years out (if you ignore the scratches from our dog!) but the looks are different. As someone noted above, the oil finish is a bit warmer and much shinier. I think it's fair to say it looks newer as a result, though how much of that is the wear-and-tear we put on our house (significantly more than our neighbors!) is hard to say. Our water-based finish is more matte-looking and pulls out more browns and beiges than yellows and reds (if that makes sense). There are apparently some differences in how you can clean and touch up the two finishes as well. (We use Bona hardwood cleaner on ours, which seems to work fine.) Anyway, just food for thought on this!...See Moremerepaley
5 years agoBeth H. :
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSarah
5 years agojhmarie
5 years agoIrene Morresey
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoUser
5 years agoUser
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agogeoffrey_b
5 years agoSJ McCarthy
5 years agosuezbell
5 years agoUser
5 years agoG & S Floor Service
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoci_lantro
5 years agoSJ McCarthy
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoSJ McCarthy
5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoG & S Floor Service
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agomerepaley
5 years agoG & S Floor Service
5 years agoL H
4 years ago
Related Stories
KITCHEN DESIGN10 Terrific Kitchen Design Tips From This Week’s Stories
Find out how to hide a drying rack, choose tile finishes and more
Full StoryKITCHEN OF THE WEEKKitchen of the Week: The Calm After the Storm
Ravaged by Hurricane Sandy, a suburban New York kitchen is reborn as a light-filled space with a serene, soothing palette
Full StoryCONTRACTOR TIPSContractor Tips: Countertop Installation from Start to Finish
From counter templates to ongoing care, a professional contractor shares what you need to know
Full StoryLATEST NEWS FOR PROFESSIONALS4 Top Furniture Trends From the Spring 2021 High Point Market
New products built on recent trends with lots of black, striking details, polished rustic style and bold curves
Full StoryEVENTS4 Top Furniture Trends From the Spring 2021 High Point Market
New products built on recent trends with lots of black, striking details, polished rustic style and bold curves
Full StoryWHITE KITCHENS4 Dreamy White-and-Wood Kitchens to Learn From
White too bright in your kitchen? Introduce wood beams, countertops, furniture and more
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNIdeas From the Year’s Top 10 Kitchens of the Week
Get inspired by the found objects, reclaimed hardware, efficient storage and work zones in our top kitchens of 2016
Full StoryDREAM SPACESNew This Week: 4 Totally Amazing Dream Kitchens
These big kitchens with big design ideas are what dreams are made of
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNNew This Week: 4 Ways With White-and-Wood Kitchens
Designers share fresh ideas for bringing dynamic style to this classic kitchen palette
Full StoryKITCHEN CABINETSNew This Week: 4 Refreshing Kitchens With Green Cabinets
See how various shades of this uplifting color can rejuvenate your kitchen
Full Story
Beth H. :