I have written about how to propagate fiddle leaf fig here- https://www.apieceofrainbow.com/fiddle-leaf-fig/ I rooted 4 stem cuttings and 1 leaf, shown above. the leaf did not survive, but i think it is because of competition- i planted it in the same pot as 2 other stem cuttings, which grew rapidly. the african violet leaves i rooted has grown into plants. what happens is that small bud will grow from the roots and turn into branches. i think FLF works the same =) https://www.apieceofrainbow.com/grow-african-violet/

Thank you so much for responding (and for talking me off the ledge!) Sorry I wasn't being clear...I have not yet repotted and was waiting until June to do so. I haven't examined the soil closely, but once when I was lifting/transporting the tree to water it, the pot just fell off the plant onto to the ground. it did make some mess but the potting medium pretty much held together in the shape of the pot. So, I'd say at least "old" if not "bad" soil? Should I look at the roots more closely and if so, what am I looking for? (And what would I do if I found it?) If this guy does survive, I will summon up the courage to repot hopefully in Al's 5:1:1 in June if I can manage to find all the right ingredients (been working on that for some time.) Very nervous to repot something this size. I did spray all the other bigger plants in the house and will now do the rest of them (and this one) once a week...thank you! I knew they traveled from plant to plant....but, hitch a ride on me? I might never sleep again knowing that...lol. Also, I haven't fertilized at all--I know I've read somewhere on this Forum that it's good to do a weaker Foliage Pro all year(?) but I wasn't sure if I should just initiate that at this time of year--even at a weaker strength, much less when the plant is stressed? I'm thinking I should wait for new growth to start fertilizing? Thank you, thank you for taking the time to help!!!!

This looks like the fungaluglies at work, perhaps anthracnose. I'd remove the affected foliage with a sterile tool and dispose of the leaves in a sealed plastic bag or burn them. I'd also treat with a fungicide - a systemic would be most effective. Bayer's Disease Control for Roses/ Flowers/ Shrubs delivers the systemic 'tebuconazole' which is a very effective fungicide. As always, read/ follow directions and only spray outdoors. Al

Look at you! Strong work, T! If you must prune now, do no more than pinch the apical meristem (growing tip of the branches), then do your more aggressive pruning next Father's Day - around the summer solstice (Jun 21). Your tree will respond with the maximum amt of enthusiasm then, when it's full of vim and has plenty of stored energy in reserve. You're ultimately looking for more ramification, which is a word used to describe leaf and branch density. If you cut every branch back to 2 healthy leaves (in summer when the plant is at peak vitality), this is what will happen - new branches will form in the axils (crotches) of leaves immediately proximal to the pruning cut/pinch. From that point forward, you should religiously pinch every new branch back to 2 leaves once it has 3 mature leaves on it. That's the most effective way to maximize ramification. From 1 branch you get 2, from 2 - 4, from 4 - 8, from 8 - 16 ...... Within a very short time your plant will be so full you'll be thinning branches to let light into the interior so the tree doesn't shed leaves and/or branches. Bring it up again in early June and we can make a plan. Al