I'm no expert but it looks like the tree is suffocating. It must have been planted too deeply to begin with then the mulch dressing is really finishing it off. If it were me I would remove the mulch and rake away some of the top soil almost to the point were the feeder roots are visible and as far out as the drip line. Then I would put a light top coating of wood chips (not shredded which could compact) over the top. This might seem drastic but you have nothing to lose since it looks like if you don't do something you'll probably lose the tree anyway. The tree looks like some kind of Poplar. Very pretty. I love the conical shape. Perfect for the space. It would be a shame to have to get rid of a tree like that.

i am in adrian mi ... prime planting time in MI ... is ground thaw in late march ... minimum 6 to 8 weeks before leaf out ... OR!!!!! and late sept thru about now ... so this is your window of opportunity ... for next year ... gee tree farm is just north of jackson MI ... off I-94 ... with a 15 acre arboretum .. and hundreds of acres of trees... it would be a brilliant trip ... NOW ... call ahead... ask for cary ... and explain what you are looking for .. and ask if their field trees are still holding leaves.. and if you could mark some for next summer .. it might require a deposit ... and that is up to them ..... [i would have you mention my name.. but i dont know if it would be a positive.. lol ] .. make an appointment for someone with a golf cart to whisk you around the property .... you might be able to find some out your way also ... google tree farms grand rapids ... the larger the tree.. the more roots you cut off to transplant ... no tree will perform to expectations until it regrows its root mass .. so a larger tree.. will take years longer to recover ... smaller will get 'established' faster .. and can outgrow a larger specimen.. inside 5 years .. not to mention.. if you are doing this yourselves.. how to move.. transport ... carry.. and plant.. a humongous ball and burlap.. sans heavy machinery ... i have tried that.. nearly ended up needing surgery .. not cool ... my dichotomy.. is based on you doing it.. versus big checkbook professional installation ... its not that it cant be done... its what can be done in your budget .... i am impressed you are so far ahead of the curve... usually peeps want instant gratification.. rather than planning a year out ... should you be thinking of doing this yourself.. read.. digest. and commit to memory.. EVERYTHING at the link ... doing it the right way... really matters .... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

I'd take a sample to your county extension. It could be a simple fungus that you would just have to make sure to rake up and dispose all the fallen leaves, or it could be something that would kill the tree. Have it checked before it has a chance to spread to other trees of yours, or your neighbors.

It appears to be some delayed transplant shock - not fatal but not necessarily a good thing, either. First, you already know this but I'm going to repeat........planting a JM in June in a hot summer climate that is undergoing an extended drought is just not a great idea. Period. The tree is put at an immediate disadvantage by doing so. A reaction by the tree to this stressful situation should not be unexpected. Second, I know it seems counterintuitive, but pruning off the roots is exactly what you should NOT have done. Those fine feeder roots are how the tree accesses soil moisture and nutrients - the larger roots are only for anchorage. So the tree is now working on a second disadvantage - trauma to the rootball (JM roots are very sensitive to disturbance) and a lack of feeder roots. What I'd suggest you should have done is remove as much of the soil on the top of the rootball as possible to expose the burlap, cut any ties (and gently remove) and then unwrap the burlap surrounding the trunk and remove as much from the top of the rootball as possible, leaving the sides - with fine roots growing through - intact. Cutting off these roots has given the tree a major setback. In fact, the nursery I am associated with now nullifies their guarantee policy if removal of the burlap disturbs the rootball excessively......it is that much of a disruption to the plant, especially during the middle of the growing season. Finally, I'd want to know about your watering routine. Using an automated sprinkler system to water a newly planted tree is usually not a great idea. In fact, I discourage it. Most systems come on for a few minutes once or twice a day - this is not enough water for a new tree, particularly one of that size. And you can't tell just by looking at the surface of the soil or even down a couple inches if the soil is adequately moist down to a sufficient depth - it may appear adequately moist on the surface but be dry as a bone further down. Watering by hand, with the hose on a low trickle, for an extended period of time as often as necessary is a much better approach. The water needs to penetrate down into the soil profile at least to the depth of the bottom of the rootball and only low and slow will accomplish this sort of irrigation. A drip system or soaker could accomplish the same thing, but not a sprinkler system. So you've planted at possibly the worst time of year, you've cut off a major portion of the tree's feeder roots that supply its moisture needs and your watering program is not very suitable. Not a huge surprise the tree is reacting poorly :-) All you can do at this point in time is correct your watering practices and hopefully adequate water and cooler fall temperatures will encourage some new root development. I believe this to be recoverable but it may not be obvious until next spring and how well the tree leafs out at that time. Did it come with a warranty?