Newly planted viburnum dying?
reesepbuttercup SLC, Utah 6b
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Skip1909
5 years agoreesepbuttercup SLC, Utah 6b
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRelated Discussions
Newly Planted Lilacs dying
Comments (8)"I planted 3 Miss Kim Lilacs in my yard late in May." May is pretty late for planted trees and shrubs. With pot-grown material, it is do-able, but isn't ideal. It certainly requires diligence with monitoring soil moisture and watering when necessary. I planted according to the directions on the tag, and prepared the holes well, backfilling with a mix of bagged topsoil, compost, and native soil. The instructions you depended on were incorrect. It is almost never a good idea to amend backfill soil. Whoever wrote those instructions apparently didn't know much about planting woody plants. "I watered them after planting, but then we left town for 8 days." Without knowing what type of soil and drainage you have and how much it rained, we can't know much about whether this was a problem, but it definitely is a red flag. "One thing I did not do was separate the roots when planting...maybe this killed them?" I'm not sure exactly what you did from your description, but you probably helped your lilac more than hurting it by addressing any pot-bound roots. I don't think your problem lies here. As Ken said, find/keep that receipt if you have a warranty! Check out the link below for future plantings. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub...See Moredying citrus tree, newly planted
Comments (9)Hi Kans, As I told you in the other thread, the only thing that this doesn't look like being is underwatering. Clay will crack on the surface if it gets wet and then dries superficially. This is normal. You have to check a bit deeper. It is bad for citrus to water them if the soil is not almost dry espcially when grown in water retentive soils like clay. Dig a small hole inside that watering hole as far away from the trunk when you think it is time to water and check the humidity 10-30 cm below the surface. Roots showing superficially is not a big thing, citrus has very shallow roots. Citrus when water stressed curl their leaves upwards and if the stress continous they just drop them in a big way. Yellowing is not a sign of water stress. So regulate your watering initially not according to any fixed recipe but according to what you see in the soil. The plant appears also nitrogen stressed which may or may not have to do with too much water in the root area. See how it reacts to the foliar spray. Remove the grass around the drip line and do not cultivate. If you have a very rainy season then that watering hole which appears too deep to me will become a water trap. The watering hole should be shallow and as large as the drip line. Ideally it should not be a hole but a wide ring so the area near the trunk stays relatively dry. Having a dry season when you need a watering hole and a very rainy season when that's a bad thing, is a big problem in water retentive soils. Rather than digging in the turf to create a depression, I would have created a watering hole by planting the tree shallower and creating a retaining soil mound. That could go away during the rainy season and reconstructed come the dry period. The way you have planted is problematic since not only you have created a water trap but you wll need to expand that deep watering hole to the drip line as the plant grows both for watering and for the plant roots not to be too deep. Nik...See MoreHELP! Newly planted Hydrangea tree is dying?
Comments (8)Your soil appears to be quite alkaline and this makes the leaves turn light green to yellow, except for the leaf veins which remain dark green. I suggest you amend the soil with products which will acidify it. Some examples are garden Sulphur, green sand, aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate or liquid iron chelated compounds. The first ones are slow acting and the liquids help correct iron chlorosis faster (although it still will take a while to correct the look of the leaves). Most nurseries will hopefully carry one or several of these. Other products that will acidify very little but which are still good choices are coffee grounds and even vinegar diluted in water (but vinegar breaks down easily and needs tto be reapplied very often so, being lazy, I would go with the other products. Another suggestion is to apply 3-4" of mulch up to the drip line of the plant so the soil remains as evenly moist as possible. The mulch will also maintain the soil moist for longer periods so you do not have to water often. Acidic mulch like pine needles and such will help acidify the topmost part of the soil only so feel free to use other muulches like straw or hardwood mulch. The soil in the picture looks dry so try to maintain the soil moist as evenly as possible. Try not to have periods of dry soil, followed by periods of wet/moist soil, followed again by periods of dry soil & so forth. Give the plant about 1/2 gallon to 1 gallon of water early in the mornings. Water the soil and not the leaves. To help determine when to water, try using the finger method.... Early in the mornings and for 2-3 weeks daily, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of about 4". If the soil feels dry or almost dry then water. Otherwise, do not water. Every time that you water, write a note in a wall calendar indicating that you watered on that day. After 2-3 weeks, look at the notes and determine how often you are watering. If you watered -for example- every 3 days, set your sprinkler to water 1 gallon of water every 3 days. If the temperatures change 10 degress in either direction or if you enter a period when you receive a lot of rain (or no rain), retest for another 2-3 weeks. Since your growing season is so long, consider trying some of the reblooming hydrangeas too! Nikko will bloom once per year and it is kind of nice to get brand new blooms now and then. I visited the tropics during Xmas and was usually greeted by brown blooms in the Hortensias. Luis...See Morenewly planted skip laurel dying
Comments (8)Yes, they are way too large for that siting!! Skip laurels get as much as 18' tall and 5-7' wide. This is the wrong plant for that space! And you also juiced up the planting hole unnecessarily with all the amendments and potions applied. You never want to amend individual planting holes and doing so in clay can create drainage issues that will impact water flow. Any amendments that might be necessary should be applied as a mulch or topdressing only. And newly planted shrubs need NO fertilizer for their first year - they come from the nursery with all they need to get established. btw, SuperThrive (aka SuperJive) is just very expensive snake oil. It does nothing to help plants become established and is really just a very dilute vitamin B solution. Don't waste your money :-)...See Moredbarron
5 years agoreesepbuttercup SLC, Utah 6b
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agodbarron
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoreesepbuttercup SLC, Utah 6b
5 years agodbarron
5 years agocearbhaill (zone 6b Eastern Kentucky)
5 years agoJoe B-zone 7a Washington DC
5 years agoEmbothrium
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
5 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
5 years ago
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