Almost two years ago I planted four 4'tall Skip Laurels. The one I planted on the westside along a privacy fence line and under the eastside of an oak tree is doing great and flowers nicely. I did hand water some potted trees, under that oak tree, almost daily during our drought all last summer. Such watering is most likely what provided enough moisture for that Laurel even though I did not concentrate on watering it as much as I focused on watering the potted trees. My other three Skip laurels were planted farther north along the same fence line and the ground sloped slightly for proper water drainage. The problem I encountered was that two of those got too much water from my neighbor's improperly draining backyard rain or yard watering runoff. All three continued to struggle that first season, but by the next Spring I clearly could see two of them were in trouble and needed to be raised. I actually raised all three of those which were planted slightly closer together. I had to baby all of those raised ones with hand watering almost every day, but the one with the worst root damage from previously sitting in too much water, prior to my raising them, still died. This last fall, I replace that one, and even though we have had a dry winter; I did not have to water it much, and it is doing fine. But still this spring those three do not look like they are going to bloom as nicely as the one farther up the fence line and is planted under my mature oak tree. Hopefully if this summer I baby the three elevated ones, they will get the chance to establish a better root system and finally catch up with the other one.

Actually, they only got a little balanced fertilizer this spring. I don't think they had anything last year - I'ld have to search through my notes. We actually have awful soil - but I amend with compost and then mulch so it improves over time. Hard clay - rocks too. We live just down the road from a rock quary. Awful to put in a new bed. Their web page recommends something like 10-50-10 (numbers not quite right - but you get the idea). So, thinking of trying that. I did give them superphosphate at the end of the season this year -but it was much too late to give them a chance at anything. The paniculata and Annabelle's right next to Endless Summer bloom away, but just not those. I guess one of the three did have two blooms - but that doesn't really count. That one gets more sun than the other two. Maybe fifth year will be the charm. I had a weigela that was the same way - kept dying back every spring and wouldn't flower. Said I was going to boot it the next year if it didn't flower and grow. It did finally in it's fourth year I think.

Vetivert, Thanks for so much advice. Believe me, it is drastic times. I am definitely going to try to catch my water from the washing machine. Can I also use the water from the bathtub? We bath our daughter and use a mild Johnson's baby liquid soap. Will the soap damage the plants? I have the perfect tub for plunging the plants. I assume you mean not the whole plant, but I know what assuming means. Do I just stick in about 1/2 the pot? The hostas were here when we moved in and they are HUGE! I am heartened to know they can bounce back, even if it takes a while. They were such a joy to find in the yard when we bought the house. I have watched them spread and double in size (we moved in in May) and I would hate to loose them. The ferns were also here. Some are older, some are young. They are natural (or at least I think that is what you call them). They have spread also since I have been here. Goodness, I wish it was windy. At least that would be somewhat of a relief. Alas no wind here, just dripping hot, humid days. I have saved several months of newspaper. Can this be used as ground cover, or is it ineffective? Just a thought. Thanks for all the wonderful ideas. I have several small young plants, most in pots and ok, but several have lost all their leaves. I moved them to a area with more shade, but I fear they will not make it. Here is a list of my critical ones: 1. Japanese red maple, has leaves, but not in the best condition, about 12" tall. 2. three small wisterias (for trellis purposes only) have lost all their leaves and the stalks are dead looking. They are only about 10" tall. 3. One crape myrtle. She has her leaves, but is droopy. She is about 12" tall. 4. One glowing embers, there are several dead leaves, but there is also new growth, only about 4" tall. 5. Finally, one hydrangea seedling. I got two at the same time from ordering on-line. One is doing fantastic, the other looks like a dead stick. Should I dump him? I have another hydrangea that was almost as bad, but brought him back to life (pink, girls, blue, guys). However, the one that is coming back did so pretty quickly, was larger, and is in the ground, the seedling is showing no sign. All the potted plants have mulch around them. I hate to give up on any of them. It is not the money, although a lot was spent on these "kids", it is the fact it is my responsiblity to make sure they live. I have just started gardening and I already love these guys. I talk to them and encourge their growth. I will feel like I failed them if they die. I know it sounds crazy, but I figure another gardener would understand. Please let me know if any of these options are viable and if there is any hope for my little ones. I can take the harsh truth, but I am hoping for some good news too (don't feel bad if you can't provide it). Thanks so much, Crazy optimistic

I would start by asking the horticulturist at your county office of your University of Tennessee USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done since quite often insect pests are drawn more to plants that are not quite as healthy as they can be. Soil pH and nutrient balance can affect plant health in ways we cannot see and plants growing in a good, healthy soil are better able to ward off these insect pests. You might also want to dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else needs to be done.