Hi moc, I went to the website to look at that. To me the price wouldn't be bad if it were comfortable. I'll have to check out some reviews. I bought a daybed frame off of CL which is really cute, its an iron daybed, but it is still in storage and I need to get a mattress for it, but I would be willing to re-think my choice - the daybed only cost me $50.00 so I could probably resell or give it to one of my kids. The thing is, I have a spare bedroom for the grandkids but they don't usually sleep overnight because most of the time I have to work the next day. But that ottoman would be a good option because I would actually like to use that space for dual purposes - a small office for me, and a toy storage and play room for the kiddies. Next week I am having my whole house - attic, walls and crawl space insulated. That will really add to the comfort level. My goal is get my space as comfortable as I can - and to take care of all maintenance issues as priority. My next project for spring will to be grading around the foundation and directing any water off the foundation. Fun huh. This is one of those items I am going to keep in the back of my mind. I also considered just one of those blow up mattress's - a decent one - that inflates and deflates fast. But I have never slept on one so don't know how comfortable they are. Doesn't sound like I want guests to linger too long hah! Thanks for the ideas, I appreciate them!

1. Planning on getting new knobs for the Cupboards. I was thinking Black Scrolly 2. New Light fixtures. There is one in the middle of the room. Maybe a Chandelier 3. The wood siding I wasn't ready to tear off and do the repairs so I painted that green hoping for a "garden look" since the wood grain shows through like a lattice, trellis look. Plus it's a Darkish room and wanted to brighten it up. 4. My *vision* was to buy some garden floral bedding .. with the green and ivory colors in it. 5. Carpet is brand new. It stays. Brown to hide dirt and stay with warm colors 6. The closet doors. I don't know what to do??!!! 7. The window over the bed is a HUGE problem. I took down the old nasty blinds. There is a new window A/C sticking through it (we have no central A/C) so this was a necessity. 8. I want a window treatment to cover the A/C when it is not in use. I am TOTALLY stuck on the window treatment 9. I need a dresser, armoire or something. What Color or Kind should I be looking for?? Please help .. be kind lol. The room you couldn't even Go Into it.. when I started on it lol. I can take ANY honest advice, criticism. Please tell me if my plans have any merit. I want the room to look good and am not married to anything. thanks

Swiss Chard Been there done - physically done the rehab on several houses from late 1890s - 1950s. And most of the posters suggestions are gonna blow past $6000, 8000+++ in a heartbeat, (Have figured out that it seems like most on Houzz have never lifted a paintbrush - let alone actually done the work like messing with a load bearing wall or reframing doors or wiring.) Start replacing those cabinets with even unfinished cabinets and you are already at $1000 for unfinished oak - and a lot of swearing and shimming and "you can 2 of the 3 - straight, level or plumb but not all 3." And dishwasher drawers...... shessh there goes another $600 -800 and that doesn't include the complicate plumbing runs to get to those. Now to come in at the low end of budget: (1) Leave the fridge where it is. Forget opening a load bearing wall and doing some build-out on the other side. Guarantee you are going to run into problems with support and getting the needed wiring in will lead to much -huge amounts of - cursing and "you want me to WHAT" from your husband. You would need to push a 31" deep fridge back 10 1/2" through the wall and into the adjoining room. Building a 6 1/2" deep bumpout (total depth 11 inches) into the adjoining room -and through a load-bearing wall to boot with removing/relocating 3 studs- would be a scary project. (And yeah we have opened up load-bearing walls and done the cross-beam support thing) Plywood walls .....now we are into "Nightmare on Elm Street" territory. You can just build a floor-ceiling wall on the open side of the fridge where it is- makes it look built-in and breaks it off from the dining room. Maybe there is room in the laundry for the fridge. Hard to tell how the laundry room size but from the one photo, it looks like there is no room to take up 11" of floor space with a bumpback wall - probably not enough room for fridge either unless there is (a) space across from the washer/dryer or (b) you go to a stackable washer/dryer setup or a clothes processor (only thing I have used for 15++ years -love it.) No way to put a fridge in that kitchen. The only space is only 20 1/2 deep and you would come through the back door and in one small step run smack into that 36" wide 31" deep moose sticking out in the traffic pattern. You might have been able to squeeze in counter-depth fridge there as it would only have stuck out 4 or 5 inches but to get one not more than 25" deep and 19 cu ft or more is way way way expensive - like over $7000. (2) To the left of the sink, you CAN fit an 18" Dishwasher if that is at least an 18" cabinet - just have to remove the shelves and the kickplate and face frame. An 18" DW is actually more like 17 1/2 - it is called an 18" because it needs an 18" cutout. (3) Leave the cabinets alone -just refinish. (a) You could give them a sand and restain and use real varnish (not poly) to seal or paint and seal with real varnish (no need to sand - just use Zinnser BIN or 123) (b) You can dress up the front of the cabinets by adding molding. This works nicely - not so tall coming out from the door that it is annoying but adds dimension. http://www.homedepot.com/p/DecraMold-DM-L58-7-32-in-x-17-32-in-Solid-Pine-Wall-and-Cabinet-Trim-Embossed-with-a-Button-Style-Design-10000108/100391978; http://www.homedepot.com/p/DecraMold-DM-L58-17-32-in-x-7-32-in-x-96-in-Solid-Pine-Wall-and-Cabinet-Trim-Moulding-10000107/100392983 If you want to get really fancy, you could add some birch embossings to the cabinet doors. Easy to do - put with some wood glue and small brads. Search for "Birch appliques" http://www.homedepot.com/s/birch%2520%2520appliques?NCNI-5 With a good quality gel stain (Old Village or Bartley) you can get the original doors and pine trim to stain to match. (BTW Old Masters is not that good - it will never get an even match with 2 different woods and Minwax is fit only for the trash bin.) (4) 3'5" wall next to water heater. You still need a home for a microwave. The space is 21 1/2 deep. You can make a pantry/microwave space by doing the following * get unfinished UPPER cabinets which are 12" deep - all big box stores have them. 1 row will make the base and 1 or 2 rows the top (2 if you want to go to the ceiling.) * get some 1x3x8 and some furniture feet (the 4 -4 1/2" bun feet would work.) * make a rectangular frame with the 1x3 to run under the bottom the lower cabinet run. Attach the furniture feet plates and then the feet. *attach the cabinet to the wall. The feet and the countertop will bring it up to 36" high -standard counter height. * top the lower cabinet run with some countertop -you can use plywood or particle board (3/4 " -2 thick) and tile or laminate or cutdown pre-made laminate counter or the concrete thing I describe below. Give the counter a 1" overhang. (Total counter depth 13" * GE makes several microwaves that are 12 3/4 deep. * Put an outlet there so that the microwave plugs in to its side and not straight back * Mount a matching run of upper cabinets above * Top the upper cabinets with a 12" edge-glued board (these are a true 12" - not the "called 12" but really 11 1/2" lumber. Add some molding to the from edge of the edge-glue board so it comes out past the cabinet. Quarter round works or this works http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-Fara-5-8-in-x-3-4-in-x-84-in-Hardwood-Panel-Shelf-Moulding-545/203362309 Paint or stain as you like. Now you have microwave home AND more cabinets for storage - a 12" deep pantry. (5) Counter - you have a few low-cost but better looking options than is there. (a) Strip the laminate and tile it. Lowe's has a white or cream 4x4 tile by American Olean for 16 cents a tile. You can use the fancy-schmancy countertop edge tile or you can do the same tile as the top on the front-edge cut so they fit under the counter tile (kind of a brick look pattern) . Probably a good choice - you have very little counterspace and need to be able toput down hot pans. (b) Strip the laminate and relaminate with material of your choice. Figure $60 -180 depending upon what you pick. (c) Strip the laminate. Do 3 coats of feather-finish concrete (sanding with 200 paper after each.) You can leave the concrete or paint it in a stone pattern if you like (lots of videos and instructions on the web for faux marble or faux granite.) Seal the counter with a 2 part bartop expoxy. Famowood Glazecoat works -Home Depot has it. (Just make sure that it is 75-80 degrees right at the countertop while the expoy is setting up - it needs a WARM area like that to set up. Definitely not a project for a winter day on counters on an exterior walls) Stripping the current laminate just means a heat gun and 5-1 painters tool - comes right up (6) Sink - just get a stainless steel. That looks like a standard 33" wide. 10" deep double bowl (50/50) is $107 at Home Depot. If you have an architectural salvage place in your area (Habitat for Humanity Restore or others (we have one called Odom Reusable Building Materials - love that place) check them out for materials. Cabinets will go for $30 -50 and stainless sinks for $25 -35 (And if you get lucky, you can even score a Kohler white cast iron double basin kitchen sink for $60!) BTW if you want to buy more space, dump the tank water heater and get a Bosch Tankless. Hangs on the wall. and is only 18" wide. With a tankless (gerat thing - never run out of hot water) you might be able to move the water heater the laundry and get rid of that closet - and thus add more 12" deep cabinet storage and counter. If you go to a tankless and keep the closet, you can cut down the water heater closet and use louvered door. (At a salvage place that louvre door you show would be about $35 - not the $200ish at a big box store.) (BTW, the picture you have of one door.....uh there is an never-used louvered door here in the garage just like that.....its looking for a home.) Total done like this = UNDER $1400.

Jennifer, I don't see it as dated either. And I live in New York. :) I'm another one who can not throw out perfectly good cabinets. It has nothing to do with money, and everything to do with I'm just not going to throw out perfectly fine wood cabinets. If they were damaged, or broken, or so cheap they're starting to come apart at the seams, then sure. I bought a beach home (2nd home) and I'm struggling with this same dilemma. The counters are worn. The cabinets there are fine. So I'm having new granite put on top of my "dated" cabinets, will put a fresh coat of paint and a new backsplash in and will call it done, and be perfectly happy. I like granite. I also like Corian. I've had both and they each have their pros and cons. I second (or is it third?) the advice to just go shopping. Look at the various options, touch them, and hopefully it will help you decide. But I salute you for not worrying about "dated." Heavens above that concept irks me. If someone personally cares about "dated", then that's fine and people can offer opinions about what is dated for hours on end. But nothing about your post indicated you cared about that concept, nor that your cabinets were garbage and needed to be replaced. Bless you for accepting somewhat rude commentary with such aplomb. :)