I actually think the original design is fine. I'm assuming you have a side by side CD fridge. If you have a 36" door then it needs to move over. The 42" might be a bit tight (especially considering projection of fridge door and 1.5" overhang of countertop) but honestly, I would still consider it in the range of acceptable. I would first consider shrinking the island by 3" on either end (to keep it symmetrical) if you want a wider aisle, than I would consider moving the fridge over, as I like the look with the fridge in the middle of that short wall. Also seems like there is a hallway on the right side of the kitchen (perhaps leading to another room? dining?) and a fridge in that edge spot could swing out and cause obstructions for traffic. It's really important to consider what is adjacent to the kitchen, not just the kitchen itself. In the alternatives, #2 is way off balance so drop that. Between #3 and #4, it's just up to you if you want a prep sink. I see it as useful as I expect those mullion doors would host glasses, and you don't have in-door water. Having a water source in your drinks area is great, and with a prep sink you have a nice little bar area setup. You have plenty of working counterspace in the kitchen already (imho). Everyone is right about the oven/wd in the corner at an angle. I think it really poses a functionality issue as well -- if you have the wd open, then you can't open the drawers to either side! Drawers leading into both sides of a corner can already create annoying situations (depending on what is stored in the drawers and how often they are opened)... but the warming drawer also butting in with those drawers really compounds the problem. Basically, I agree most with sweeby's, and I also like his suggestions for alternate configurations.

As an appraiser, I see you having two issues, which option will be the best value and which option suits your needs? The basement will provide the best return on expense. The reason is it will be heated and can be counted as finished living space below grade. The three-season room will be designated as unfinished area such as a deck or porch and valued accordingly.. If all of the other units have a basement and your unit doesn't, it may be harder to sell. Flip that statement to if all of the other units have a three-season room and yours unit doesn't it may be harder to sell. Having said that, you need to install whatever best suits your needs and desires. Life is too short. Put in the item that you think will improve the quality of your life.

Don't forget you also need 7'6" from finished floor to finished ceiling in habitable space. No habitable space can be smaller than 7' wide and must have at least 70 sf floor space (other than kitchens). If the space is a bedroom, you need a qualified egress window in that room. Basements with habitable spaces, need a door or egress window somewhere. Habitable spaces in general have to go directly to an egress-connected corridor (i.e., you can't pass through another room). Smoke detectors are required for all habitable space. There are rodent proofing aspects of the code you'll want to make sure you have dealt with (these do not apply to unhabitable basements).

Basement Egress Window Requirements The bottom of the egress window opening can't exceed 44" from the finished floor. The minimum opening area of the egress window is 5.7 square feet. The minimum egress window opening height is 24" high. The minimum egress window opening is 20" wide. The egress window must have a glass area of not less than 8% of the total floor area of room(s) for which it is servicing, to allow the minimum amount of sufficient natural light. * The egress window must have an opening area of not less than 4% of the total floor area of room(s) for which it is servicing, to allow the minimum amount of natural ventilation. * * Multiple windows can be used to service a single area where one window does not meet these percentages of total floor area. As long as the totaled amounts from this combination of windows meet or exceed the 8% for natural light and 4% for natural ventilation. Egress Window Wells Egress window wells are required where the bottom of the egress window is below ground level. The egress well must not interfere with the egress window fully opening. The distance from the egress window to the back of the Egress well must be at least 36" The minimum area of the egress well must be 9 square feet. (width x projection) Egress Ladders and/or Steps Egress ladders and or steps are required on window wells deeper than 44" and must be permanently attached. An egress ladder or step may encroach into well up to 6". Steps and/or distance between rungs of the ladder can't exceed 18". The rungs of an egress ladder must be 12" wide or greater and must project a minimum of 3" away from the back wall, but can't exceed 6" from the back of the wall.