@Laura Hoefer seems like your situation is not as bad as ours in terms of exposure. We didn't know about the windows and my kid's bed was right by them. He got exposed a lot with all the opening and closing. Plus the age doesn't help - he still puts everything in his mouth. If you decide to strip them yourself, I would advise to take a class on lead safety. That being said seems like it's a very complicated process and it might make the situation worse. There are some sealing paints for lead, but you'll still have to scrape the peeling paint off, which is dangerous. I'm going to strip only the 1st floor windows as it gets warmer (they are 8 ft tall so super expensive to replace), but we decided to replace the rest. Restoring is even more expensive if a professional is hired. Have you tried using professional lead cleaning products for lead to mop the floors? Maybe this will help reduce the exposure for your kids. It's all so scary. I'm scared that my kid will be permanently brain-damaged due to all of this :(

What others are saying is correct--the breaker panel MUST be easily accessible. I advise against putting them in a closet--a lot of builders like to do that to hide the "ugly" box, but home inspectors and fire marshals hate it. It looks like the panel cover is one designed for boxes that stand out in the open, not recessed in the wall. If you look up the brand and model, you may be able to get a new cover, one designed for recessed installation (Instead of looking like a box lid, the edges go straight out to sit flush with the wall surface and cover the gap in the wall around the sides of the box.) If that's a fuse box, not a breaker panel, I highly recommend replacing it. If your jurisdiction permits it, and you can shut off power to it, you can replace it yourself easily for less than $200, including new breakers and a new panel. If you feel up to it ;) You can find numerous sources on the Internet to walk you through replacing a panel and making sure it's safe and up to code (which most older panels are not) As for the hump in the wall, I agree that you should try drilling into it to see what's behind it. It may be raceway for your electrical wiring--it's possible that your wall is cinder block or brick about halfway up, with wood framing on top.

Estimate for Hardie? I didn't but only b/c we got got the painting done for "only" $8k (note that I have a dutch colonial: brick 1st floor, only painting to be done was 2nd floor (white cedar shingles) and tiny kitchen porch railings and 6 window shutters.) This was after estimates for $15k and $12k IIRC. If we were planning to stay here long term I'd definitely reside next time. (Would research to see whats new first. There's a faux cedar shingle called "Cedar Impressions" another 1920s house used. They also have color choices like Hardieboard. That home looks new still - been at least 5 years since they resided. In another part of my town with tear downs/new construction: all have composite siding - so I'd go find out what they have. I don't ever see new builds with wood siding here.) As I get older anything I can do to make maintenance easier/less often is worth considering. I'd guess that the labor hours for residing is similar to that of painting - so probably wouldn't cost that much more. (Labor is, by far, the biggest cost to paint - sounds like in your area too as goodness knows paint doesn't cost $15k.) But finding a skilled carpenter is probably harder than finding a painter here.

If you want a forward facing gable over your entry: remove the existing roof of your front porch. It can be replaced with a shed/half roof sloping away from the right exterior side of the house after you create your front porch with a forward facing gable. Enlarge and enclose the walls and flooring of your existing porch so the exterior wall on the side closest to the road is made even with the rest of the front exterior wall of the home. Beginning halfway between the downstairs right front window and the right front corner of the house, create a forward facing gable with a ridge point halfway between that beginning point and a point on the right that is as far right as needed to be even with the far right edge of the existing front porch. Your new front exterior wall of your new wall will be a continuation of your existing front exterior wall and the forward facing gable you create will cover your new 6' deep front porch. Your new entry door will be on the right half of that new front porch. Alternately, remove only the half of your existing porch roof that slopes away from the road and enlarge the walls of your existing porch as before -- to have the wall closest to the road be even with the exterior wall of the home now closest to the road. Then extend it the roof slope on the back upward to a new ridge point that will enable the slope that is on the road side of the house (of even length) to extend over your new front porch -- that will have a shed roof toward the road. Again, put your front entry door in the right side of the new front exterior wall of your new entry and create your gable roof facing the right side of your home. Then create your new sidewalk leading to your new front door. If there is room for a 4' - 6' front stoop between the front exterior wall of your home and the tree w/o harming the tree roots, the tree needn't be cut. Toward that end, you might use a treated deck board floor for your porch rather than dig a footing. As an alternative, you could use a flat roof for your new entry and create a deck that wraps a few feet around your right front corner. Edited to address tree issue and deck issue.