Made another batch today....dismal failure. Again. Here is the recipe I tried: Pecan Supremes Mrs. Fields Cookie Book 2 c AP flour 1 tsp soda 1/4 tsp salt 3/4 c quick oats 3/4 c dark brown sugar (packed) 3/4 c white sugar 1 c salted butter, softened 2 large eggs 2 tsp vanilla 1 c chopped pecans 1 c semisweet chocolate morsels Preheat oven to 300F, In a medium bowl combine flour, soda, salt & oats, mix well with whisk and set aside. In large bowl, blend sugars with electric mixer at medium speed, Add butter and mix to form a grainy paste. Scrape down sides of bowl, then add eggs and vanilla. Beat at medium speed until fully combined. Add the flour mixture, pecans and chocolate chips, blend at low speed until combined. Do not overmix. Drop by rounded tablespoons onto ungreased baking sheets. bake 18-20 minutes. Immediately transfr cookies with a spatula to a cool, flat surface. I experimented a bit. Made 6 cookies on an airbake sheet and 6 cookies on a heavy aluminum sheet. No difference...I ended up with a big, run\-together blob of thin cookie. Chilled the rest of the dough for 6 hours. Baked a dozen cookies. No difference...I ended up with a big, run\-together blob of thin cookie. Each time I let them cool a bit on the sheets and I practically needed a jack hammer to remove the. it was a mess. I was going to take a picture, but found my camera battery is dead. I still have half the dough in the fridge rolled into a log and wrapped in plastic. I am afraid to try baking more! Linda

It could be that Dutch Boy doesn't touch up well either. Some paints just don't touch up. Instead of trying to simulate the stipple effect that a roller makes by dabbing paint on, you should just use a roller. Using the same tool as what you originally applied the paint with gives your paint the best chance to blend in. Use the same nap size as what you painted the room with. You can get roller sleeves in 4" size so you don't have to use the 9" ones.

Hobby, you got it exactly right :) The larger the pot, the larger the holes should be. I imagine the bottom of my pots having holes that are many and also almost half of the area of the bottom should be the drilled holes. With potting soil that I use, I have to have that ratio for drainage holes, otherwise my plants will be in trouble in the winter months. Also if the bottom of the pot has "peaks and valleys", if you look inside the pot and see "valleys" you have to make more holes there, becase the water gets trapped in those areas and its very bad for the roots in the winter time (see the strategically placed holes in my blue bucket in the picture I posted above :))

If "undermounted extraction" means downdraft venting, as I suspect, then plenty of Americans use it. Unfortunately, for reasons addressed here in many threads (search "downdraft"), it has poor capture of rising cooking plumes relative to overhead hoods that can have almost total capture. Video images of capturing steam from boiling water do not reveal the actual problem: hot oil/grease cooking causes peak plume velocities of 0.6 to 1.2 m/s, with far too much grease/moisture particulate momentum to be diverted to a downdraft at any distance from it (measured in multiples of the slot narrow dimension). And transient cooking such as wok cooking and meat searing can even overwhelm a typical hood depending on its reservoir volume below the baffles. (More commercial oriented designs may be needed if such cases are common.) Note for perspective that overhead hoods do not suck up effluent from the cooktop; they depend on the rising and expanding cooking plumes to bring the effluent to the hood intake aperture. This is also true of most commercial hoods. To actually pull the cooking plumes into a hood assembly would require an intolerable level of blower and baffle noise, as in side-draft grinding station extraction systems even without baffles. To cause 180-degree plume reversal to a cooktop level downdraft port is not feasible for hot cooking.